My e-revo brushless edition build

[Chadworkz]

Originally Posted by Kcaz25

What are you talking about? Gmaxx has an electric Revo.

It was for converting the nitro Revo into electric, using the E-Maxx transmission...I am pretty sure they are wanting a chassis made specifically for the E-Revo (which will never happen because Gorilla was all about converting nitro to electric, and the E-Revo is already electric, so there is no need to make a conversion chassis).

[Chadworkz]

I am glad the chassis doesn't come that way...it makes me, as well as many others i'm sure, feel a lot better!

[suicideneil]

What about the slash, that was already electric, and the 3905 too (G4 chassis)?...

I know what you mean though- only real reason to make a specific Gorillamaxx Erevo chassis would be for the same reason Kershaw did; low CoG & maybe a bit longer/ bigger battery trays. Dont hold your breath guys... :(

[mistercrash]

Who needs GMaxx anyway, after I'm done with this Kershaw chassis, Dan will start making it the same way. But he'll probably sell it for $350

I started working on the new chassis towers I want to make the Kershaw chassis even stiffer and stronger. I decided to use carbon fiber since I already had this 4.5 mm sheet lying around. I cut 20 strips 10 mm wide then I stacked them up using epoxy to glue them together which makes two stiff solid carbon fiber blocks. After the epoxy cured, I trimmed the blocks and sanded them square. The end result is two solid carbon fiber blocks, 42 mm high by 8.9 mm thick. Once these chassis towers are done and installed on the Kershaw chassis, there will be a picture of it beside the definition of ‘’rigid’’ in the dictionary. It's going to be a PITA to cut, drill and machine these blocks but I'll git er done.



I think I mentioned before that a sheet of carbon fiber 3 mm thick is coming my way to make a new lower chassis plate. This chassis is going to be sweet. The more I look at it, the more I like it. I like the simplicity of it. Other than the hardware, there’s only 4 pieces to it, the top and bottom plates and the two chassis towers. More to come as I will start to disassemble the ERBE again to make those towers and the new bottom plate. I will probably wait ‘till the snow comes since I am still bashing my ERBE and having fun with it.

[Chadworkz]

Looking sweet!

[mistercrash]

There’s a few things that people find annoying about me. First of all, I speak with a French accent. Better not joke about this, only I can joke about it Another thing is when I have an idea in my head, I have to act on it right now. So here goes, the chassis towers are done It went much better than I thought it would. I guess it helps to have sharp tools. Lemme tell ya! That chassis is as stiff as it can get. I derived a little bit from the drawing I made before and a little trimming was needed to clear the servo horn. The CF towers are 30 grams heavier than the stock ABS ones for a total of 60 grams more but I don’t mind it as I really thought it was needed to have stronger, stiffer towers. I like it, I’m happy, I can sleep tonight.

[Chadworkz]

Very nice!

If for any reason you have any trouble out of those CF braces, I have a sheet of 7.6mm CF that is finished and glossy on both sides that you could use, but I don't think yours will have any problems.

Everything looks great, MC, just like everything else you do...well done!

[Novarider]

How do you think the KD chassis would hold up the way it comes? I mostly jump and do tricks like backflips and frontflips while in the air. Do you think the chasers would hold up to jumping about 12-15 feet in the air? I would like a stronger chassis mine is cracked at the rear bolt holes where the wing attaches

[mistercrash]

The way it comes from Kershaw Design? I don't really know actually I didn't run it for very long like that because of the two chassis braces (I called them towers earlier). I just thought that they were much too flexible and didn't give much structural support to the chassis. They are so flexible that if you tighten the six screws and nuts too much, they squish and make the top plate arc down. (or up?)

Look here

I bought this chassis after months of thinking about it. I was curious. It is a simple design so I thought if there are flaws then I can fix it easily. So I just went for it and bought it. With some work, this chassis turned out to be a really really good one. Really tough for bashers and very stiff which racers will appreciate. But it did need some work. It doesn't look as good and sweet as the Gorilla chassis but right now it's the only option.

Looking back on it, I'm glad I have the chassis but I could've made this chassis myself for a fraction of the price. It is really simple to make, only 4 major parts made out of flat stock. The top plate has 2 bends in it.
There's one word that pops back in my head when someone asks me what are my final thoughts on this chassis, no matter how good it is right now on my ERBE. ''overpriced''.

It's your call, $30 for a stock one that flexes too much or $180 for one that needs some work on your part to make it bullet proof.

[mistercrash]

The ESC wire coming out from the back was fine on the stock ERBE chassis with the receiver box on the other side of the motor but now my box is in the front on the same side of the chassis as the ESC so I re routed the wire so it comes out the front of the ESC to go to the receiver box. It just looks a bit cleaner that way. The excess on/off switch wire is placed in a piece of heat shrink and tucked away.



When I finally get my CF sheet to make a new bottom plate, the front battery strap will be placed 10 mm more to the front so the total space I will have for batteries will be 175 mm long by 52 mm wide by 43 mm high.

[mistercrash]

I'm back with graphs again. I analyzed the 4 Turnigy 4500 mah 6.6 volt LiFePO4 batteries I got and here is an overlay of the 4 results. I bought the packs in pairs and named the first pair A1 and A2. The second pair B1 and B2. From the results, I matched A1 with B1 and A2 with B2.



LiFePO4 A1 (in black):
Discharge rate: 10 A
Starting voltage: 6.92 V
Ending voltage: 4.50 V
Total time: 27 minutes 9 seconds
Tested capacity: 4520 mah

LiFePO4 A1 (in red):
Discharge rate: 10 A
Starting voltage: 6.85 V
Ending voltage: 4.50 V
Total time: 26 minutes 20 seconds
Tested capacity: 4384 mah

LiFePO4 A1 (in green):
Discharge rate: 10 A
Starting voltage: 6.82 V
Ending voltage: 4.50 V
Total time: 27 minutes 15 seconds
Tested capacity: 4537 mah

LiFePO4 A1 (in blue):
Discharge rate: 10 A
Starting voltage: 6.77 V
Ending voltage: 4.50 V
Total time: 26 minutes 3 seconds
Tested capacity: 4337 mah

[suicideneil]

Gotta treat em well whilst they're young, that way they will take care of you when you get old & decrepit...

[mistercrash]

The carbon fiber plate came in yesterday morning so I started working on duplicating the Kershaw Design bottom chassis plate. I finished this morning and here's the result. I made some changes from the Kershaw bottom plate. A bit more material here and there especially where holes are drilled and counter sunk for screws, I moved the front battery strap 8 mm forward to allow for slightly longer batteries and I didn't make holes for Nimh cells. Even though it has a whole lot more material and is thicker than the stock aluminum plate (3 mm versus 2.2 mm), it is only 10 grams heavier. Something I never mentioned about the placement of the batteries, the stock ERBE chassis has the bottom of the battery around 32 mm below the top surface of the chassis with them tilting up a bit towards the battery doors. The Kershaw chassis places the batteries 45 mm below the top surface of the chassis and they lye flat. That is a very big change in the center of gravity right there.

[feistyacorn]

Wow mistercrash!! The quality of your work is awesome! How are you making the parts? CNC or all by hand?

[mistercrash]

Solid carbide bits in a router mounted of a router table, belt/disk sander, drill press are the biggest tools I have. The rest is done by hand with files and sand paper.