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AMorgan
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02.07.2010, 11:23 AM

On the SD, a setup I kept seeing was to cut 2 coils off the .15 springs and run 2 instead of 4. Granted that was in 8ights and 8ight-Ts, but it might be worth a shot, I can't imagine springs cost that much.

Crash, sounds like you're having a rough winter season. Hope you get it worked out soon, I know it's frustrating to blow 30-40 bucks only to have the part combust on the first few runs.
   
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Urgeoner
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02.07.2010, 05:38 PM

I use this with good results:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Aluminium-Revo-3...item3efc8212f6
   
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Chadworkz
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02.07.2010, 06:11 PM

I'm sure that's good and all, but it's also heavy, will bend, and will gouge...a single titanium front skidplate is all that is needed. I am not trying to sell anything, just speaking the truth. Aluminum is the worst skidplate material ever.


-Chad
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shaunjohnson
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02.08.2010, 04:53 PM

thanks for the help, i was thinking of changing to the softest springs that came with it and then chopping one coil off.
we'll see how it goes :P
ive gotta get my 2.5 chassis rocking again though, was soooo good for handling!!


E-revo 3.3 conversion, 249kv outrunner, 6s, MMM
the porthole from the noob world an here has been opened!! that's how i got in.
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Chadworkz
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02.08.2010, 09:36 PM

Yep, chrome-plating on wheels sucks, especially in cold weather! Just strip them with oven cleaner and dye them!


-Chad
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mistercrash
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02.09.2010, 11:56 AM

I knew all about chrome wheels and never liked them even though they look so good when new. When I built my son's GERBE, I wanted those wheels because to a 5 year old, big shiny wheels are awesome. And I wanted our trucks to match so I went with the same wheels for me. They should be the last chrome wheels I'll get for a while.


No brain, no headaches.
   
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mistercrash
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02.10.2010, 10:59 AM

I thought I was done with the big projects for this ERBE but apparently not. I received two 4S 5800 mah Turnigys a couple days ago but since I'm seriously thinking of going back to the stock chassis, I won't be able to use them. I saw a few people cut their chassis and make bigger battery compartments so I'm giving it a try. I wanted the compartments to extend down instead of up, to lower the CG. So I ordered this,
http://www.smallparts.com/dp/B000RFU...f_rd_s=right-3
And I will cut these shapes from that PVC angle.



This part will be folded at each end to form the battery box. I should be able to make the bends by heating the PVC a bit.



The box will be secured to the chassis with 5 M4 flat head screws in counter sunk holes. (in the pic, it is just held there with servo tape) Plastic welding would be cool here but I don't know if PVC can be welded to Nylon. And I never got that plastic welder anyway.



The battery door slides in the slots and a body clip holds the top part to the door on the body post I put there in a previous mod I did for the stock battery doors.



Here's the 5800 mah 4S battery in there, it fits with a few millimeters to spare. I shook the chassis in every which way very hard and even though the mock up is only made of cardboard, the heavy battery stayed in there.



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Chadworkz
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02.10.2010, 08:36 PM

That should work very well!


-Chad
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suicideneil
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02.11.2010, 03:27 PM

Thats ingenious
   
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medicineman
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02.12.2010, 12:41 AM

i had a question about the kersaw e-revo chassis i found a company that will make the top plate out of CF do you think that will help with the ALU bending or will it just break and not be worth it

Also is there any other mods you can think of that will help out. I am trying to make a basher 'cause there are no tracks here.
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Chadworkz
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02.12.2010, 12:53 AM

3mm or 1/8" (3.2mm) top-plates will work great, but you are just putting a Band-Aid on that chassis (sorry Dan)...you really should use either the stock E-Revo chassis or a converted nitro chassis (preferably the Vantage CF chassis).


-Chad
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squeeforever
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02.12.2010, 12:56 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadworkz View Post
3mm or 1/8" (3.2mm) top-plates will work great, but you are just putting a Band-Aid on that chassis (sorry Dan)...you really should use either the stock E-Revo chassis or a converted nitro chassis (preferably the Vantage CF chassis).
Not to mention the problem with adding the front kickup and rear kickdown to the upper plate if made out of carbon fiber...
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Chadworkz
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02.12.2010, 01:00 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by squeeforever View Post
Not to mention the problem with adding the front kickup and rear kickdown to the upper plate if made out of carbon fiber...
Yep, didn't think about that...you would have to get carbon-weave fabric and resin and mold your own pieces with the correct bends in them.


-Chad
PM ME IF YOU HAVE THE BELOW:
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squeeforever
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02.12.2010, 01:20 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadworkz View Post
Yep, didn't think about that...you would have to get carbon-weave fabric and resin and mold your own pieces with the correct bends in them.
Which would probably have to be vacuum formed, and alot of $$$$.
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Chadworkz
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02.12.2010, 04:28 AM

Yep! I, personally, think the Vantage Carbon-Fiber chassis is the best way to go...and you can use whatever transmission you want; E-Revo, E-Maxx 3905, E-Maxx 3906, or Nitro Revo with an RCM Motor-Mount!


-Chad
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