My e-revo brushless edition build

[Chadworkz]

By the looks of the overall finish as well as the cross-section when you cut through it, it looks like he uses 5083 aluminum alloy, which isn't even in the T6 class of alloys. 5083 is not recommended for any type of structural use, and is commonly used as a fascia material to cover up other structural materials, especially since 5083 polishes fairly well, after some pretty aggressive sanding and multiple polishing compounds.

Also 5083 is FAR cheaper to buy than 6061-T6, and FAR easier to machine/mill than 6061-T6, since it is so soft and doesn't wear out end-mills and other milling bits & tools as quickly. As soon as I can find a chemist willing to do the required alchemy tests (maybe the local college tech department, etc.), I will confirm for sure what alloy Dan uses.

Bottom line, if you do anything more than just run the truck up and down the street, Dan's chassis juat isn't for you...you need to use one of the many other chassis currently available. If you can find one, the Gorillamaxx Revo chassis (either carbon-fiber or aluminum) is your best bet, followed extremely closely buy the Vantage Racing carbon-fiber chassis, or just scratch build a full chassis yourself, since you are so good at scratch building things. Check out this scratch-built chassis a guy made (it's for the 1/16 E-Revo, but you get the idea)...

[Urgeoner]

lmao at the new v2 chassis

[mistercrash]

The Kershaw chassis is gone, sold on ebay so now I have a set of 4S lipo and a set of 3S lifepo4 that don't fit. The lifepo4 packs are now used for a hand held Vac. The two 4S 5800 mah Turnigys I got recently have been transformed in a pair of 3S 5800 mah lipos. I will make a 5800 2S pack with the remaining two cells and sell it locally.

It would have been nice to separate all the cells and test them individually to match the best ones together but I didn't feel like doing that. Just taking out one cell and resoldering two wires was enough.

Here's a CBA II test result for those Turnigy 5800 3S lipos.




Turnigy 3S 5800 1:
Discharge rate: 8 Amps
Starting voltage: 12.50 V
Ending voltage: 9 V
Total time: 42 min. 47 sec.
Tested capacity: 5701 mah
Recharged @ 5858 mah with 1.4, 1.7, 1.5 milliohm IR

Turnigy 3S 5800 2:
Discharge rate: 8 Amps
Starting voltage: 12.50 V
Ending voltage: 9 V
Total time: 44 min. 24 sec.
Tested capacity: 5914 mah
Recharged @ 5942 mah with 1.4, 1.6, 1.4 milliohm IR

[shaunjohnson]

Originally Posted by mistercrash

The two 4S 5800 mah Turnigys I got recently have been transformed in a pair of 3S 5800 mah lipos. I will make a 5800 2S pack with the remaining two cells and sell it locally.

It would have been nice to separate all the cells and test them individually to match the best ones together but I didn't feel like doing that. Just taking out one cell and resoldering two wires was enough.

i did this yesterday, turned a 8000mah 3s2p 10c pack into an 8000mah 2s2p 10 and a 4000mah 2s1p 10c.

only to be run in my smaller rc's
the $20 buggy likes lipo, the stock tires are now mambafied

in other news....
I PRETZLED A SUMMIT SHAFT!!
and ive also fried my MMM almost 2 weeks ago. but this time castle had it replaced within 1.5 weeks and it's already on it's way back

[Chadworkz]

50,000wt (50k) oil in the front diff and 10,000wt (10k) oil in the rear diff.

Note: Not 50wt or 10wt, but fifty thousand wt and ten thousand wt.

sorry about the multiple listing. I dont kno how it even happened.
thanks for the info

[Chadworkz]

Originally Posted by Blown Up

sorry about the multiple listing. I dont kno how it even happened.
thanks for the info

Whenever you hit the Submit button, and it doesn't look like it is working, you tend to hit the Submit button a few more times, and for every time you hit the Submit button, a reply is posted.

[mistercrash]

OOPS!



And what is the solution for a hot motor and ESC with cool batteries? I am geared with 65 spur, 17 pinion with stock diffs. Am I under geared? Should I go to a 19 or 20 tooth pinion?. When I brought the truck in, the fan was on. The temps read 148 ESC, 151 motor and 90 batteries.

[mistercrash]

I already have LST XXL diffs in my E-Revo, I have been running them for a long time in Revos and they always have performed flawlessly. Since I recently made a LST conversion to brushless, I have a lot of spare parts for both trucks lying around. So I started slapping things together as an experiment and the result is very interesting.

The reason I did it was the LST diffs. I always thought that the rest of the LST drive train would be so cool to have on the Revo but I always thought it would be too difficult. First thing is to replace the Traxxas slider shafts with LST XXL CVDs.

This is a stock Traxxas Revo axle carrier with a LST 15X21 mm bearing pushed in it. It fits very tight but it does fit.


The outer 8X16 LST bearing won't fit in the carrier so the hole would have to be enlarged. It could be done easily by someone who has some machining equipment.


I didn't want to mess with the stock carriers so I tried with a RD Racing carrier instead which uses 16 mm OD outer bearings. The inner 15X21 bearing fits in the carrier a tad loosely. A thin sleeve would be needed to get rid of the slack. For the experiment, I just put one layer of Gorilla tape on the outer race of the bearing and it fit in the carrier perfectly. So the sleeve would have to be pretty thin.


The axle sticks out a lot from the carrier so a thick spacer would be needed to slip on the axle between the outer bearing and the hex drive. For the experiment, I just used two 8X16 bearings and three thin shims.

I don't know what the axle sticking out this much would do to the bearings, but when I put a zero offset Truggy wheel on there, it is just 3 mm narrower than the stance of my E-Revo with 1/2 inch offset wheels.



I used one of Monster Mike's hardened steel drive cup with a 6 mm bore to fit on the output shafts of the LST diffs. I made the output shafts from Traxxas stub axles so this set up could actually be used with stock Traxxas E-Revo diffs. The pic shows the suspension at full extension. The pin from the shaft is still well into the drive cup so I think it would not pop out like the Traxxas CVDs do when using the extended rear arms (frog legs)


I did the rear and it works very freely with no binding. I haven't done it to the front yet but I suspect that the LST CVDs won't have enough articulation to work with the amount of steering throw I have on my Revo. We'll see.

For the middle shafts, sadly the LST middle shafts are a bit too short.


But this could be dealt with by having a slightly longer shaft coming out of the tranny. If there was a way to make a CVD shaft fit on a middle shaft hub, it would solve the problem since that CVD looks to have the right length.


This is for the rear middle shaft, for the front, I still don't know, something custom would have to be made I suppose.

This is it, just something I did this afternoon 'cause I was bored.

Originally Posted by mistercrash

For the middle shafts, sadly the LST middle shafts are a bit too short.


But this could be dealt with by having a slightly longer shaft coming out of the tranny. If there was a way to make a CVD shaft fit on a middle shaft hub, it would solve the problem since that CVD looks to have the right length.


This is for the rear middle shaft, for the front, I still don't know, something custom would have to be made I suppose.

This is it, just something I did this afternoon 'cause I was bored.

For the center drive shafts I use the KD center dog bone kit ( I know how much you like his Revo chassis), with Moster Mikes 8 mm drive cups on my lst diffs. I had to mod the rear center dog bones a tad, and the front drive shaft fits perfect... they have worked flawlessly for almost 2 months....

[mistercrash]

I loved racing with Panther Pythons on Traxxas dish wheels with Racers Edge two stage foam inserts. The Pythons were worn so I unglued them with acetone to reuse the dish wheels and the inserts. I bought some Panther Plow boys thinking they had the same bead as the Pythons. They have a square bead that didn't fit the Traxxas dish wheels. I was disappointed so this is what I did to make them fit on the wheels. I just cut off the square bead.




I have 9 or 10 runs on these tires. They work pretty darn good. Good traction on a lot of surfaces and they don't seem to wear too fast.

If you do this, don't discard the square beads that were cut off, keep them they are good and thick elastics that you can use to hold the side of tires on the wheels to glue them.

Lastly, I cleaned my tires with water and dish soap before taping and gluing them. I tossed them in the dryer to dry them in a hurry. I found that Gorilla Tape sticks like crazy on hot tires with almost no wrinkles. When you tape your tires, heat them up first. Give it a try.

[sjcrss]

MC, Im geared the following

Stock diffs, 1/8 scale CD
2200 castle Nue
4s
68t spur, 20t pinion and I still get good temps on everything as well

[mistercrash]

I was running 6S today, maybe it was geared so high that it was over revving? I'll try a 20 T pinion tomorrow.

I have 54t spurgear and 20t pinion. Cooler engine and ride on 4S LiPo. Temperature is good.
http://wgeronimo.rajce.idnes.cz/Past...1082009503.jpg

Hey MC I have a quick question for you. Are those stock summit axles? I was asking a guy at my LHS, and he said that they are shorter due to the width of the Summits' locking diff. Is this true, or can I go ahead and order myself a set. Thanks