My e-revo brushless edition build

[mistercrash]

Some of my Zippy lipos did not have decals on them like the Flightmax series so I made my own. I just printed them on regular paper and stuck them with packing tape. If you want some for yourself, here's what I've made for my 3S and 4S zippys and a blank decal that you can put the mah, # of cells and C rating with a sharpie. It helps identify the lipo when the small writing on it starts to wear off.

[rawfuls]

Rebelgium:
As I haven't bought the Ultra plugs yet, no, but Mike (evonuI <- I think?) has told me that they will melt at high amps, so, I don't want to risk my packs and ESC.

[Rebelgium]

Hehe MC looks like you're going to need to replace those labels with Turnigy labels! ;)

The zippy's will be discontinued soon.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...298#post292298

[mistercrash]

Yes I read the thread about it. And just when I finished doing nice Flightmax decals

[mistercrash]

A little update on how my ERBE is doing. I'm very happy with my Dean's up to now, they are doing very good, this weekend is the second race in the championship so they will be put to the ultimate test. The diff blocks are awsome, my front and rear diffs actually feel like they are more efficient since they absolutely don't move inside the bulkheads. The rear body mount brace is holding up very well.

I ordered 4 of the new Turnigy lipos from Hobby King to try out. On the Hobby King forum, there is a thread about a mistake that was made in the first run of Turnigys. Apparently, they are mislabeled as 15C/20C when in fact they are really 20C/30C cells inside. First thing I will do when I get them is to take the shrink off to see the printing on the cells, the C rating is usually printed on them.

[Rebelgium]

Good to hear your upgrades are doing well.
Does all your work succeed in the first try? ;) :LOL:
I know you use fairly standard tools to machine your CF, but I'd love to know more details about it, because customizing my RC with homemade parts is the most fun in the whole of RC imo...:p

e.g. how do you go about making a CF motor plate?


btw:
I'm looking forward to hearing your opinion about the Turnigy cells, be it here or in the topic about them in the general forum...

[rawfuls]

I too would like to know about those Turnigy lipos, been looking at them as well.

Hi MisterCrash, can you write a mini tutorial on how to split the lipo batteries to make a 4s into 2x 2s? I got a 3s but one of the cell is puffed so I want to make it into 2s but doesn't know where to start. Also, where do you get the 2s balancing connectors?

[rawfuls]

I would never try messing with soldering lipos, but I might have to try NiMH's.

Anyways, I think you basically eliminate the solder wires, and just solder the wires onto the other cell..

I know, I'm bad at explaining, if you want someone else to do it for you, pretty much professionally, take a look at LincPimp's work.

Very good quality.

thanks for telling about LincPimp thread, great info there. The cells on my pack is glue together. Is it safe to just rip them apart? What do you do with the balancing tab after you resolder the wire?

[mistercrash]

I'm not an expert on working with lipos, maybe Linc can chime in here and give pointers. The 4S packs I split were my first experience and it turned out good. First thing I thought about was my own safety and the safety of my family. I cleared my work table of anything flammable, just keeping the tools I would use for the job, I worked in my garage, close to the opened garage door. If something happened, I was ready to just swat whatever was on fire out the door and it would've fallen on the driveway. I previously cleared the driveway by parking the cars in the street. I had an ABC fire extinguisher at arm's reach, I used ''SureGrip'' gloves to protect my hands and goggles for my eyes.

The shrink wrap is easy to take off, hobby knife, scissors can be used to cut it. You just have to be very careful not to damage the wrapping of the cells, don't cut it, puncture it or anything. To split the cells I used a scrap piece of Lexan, a thick piece that is left when you trim a new body. I just made a rectangle and I sanded one edge I would use to round it out with no sharp edges and I used that to split the cells. I just worked it in slowly to break the adhesive and it worked very well.

The balancing tabs I used were these from Hobby King. I just cut off the female part and used the male.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=8873

I was thinking of splitting my 3S packs as I only run 2S now so maybe I can take some picks while I'm doing it and I'll try to show how I make a CF part. I just have to find some time as I have been kind of busy lately.

[mistercrash]

I forgot I wanted to give an update on the aluminum slipper pad with the Belleville springs. It works awsome! The Belleville springs make the thing very adjustable and it keeps the setting much better than the stock spring. That aluminum slipper pad gives very good, consistent and controlled ''slippage''. It eliminates wheelies running 4S. It still will get the nose up to the point of having the rear wing scrape the surface you're running on, running on 5 and 6S. But the truck will not flip. And finally, that aluminum slipper pad lasts a long long time, I'm still running the very first one I made.

[mistercrash]

I took 2 of my 3S Zippy lipos and split them today. The cells on them took a hit at one time and they are a little rippled at the ends. Other than those ripples, the packs are good and don't cause any problems so I decided to split them and make 3 2S1P packs. I took some picks of how I did it. I hope it can help someone else do the same if they need to. If you are careful, prepared and think about safety, it can be done fairly easily and safely. Lots of pics here so this will extend to the next two or three posts.

[Rebelgium]

Too bad to hear about the CF rod breaking. Indeed it proves the rear body mount flexes a fair amount...

Now you're using a steel pushrod you lost some weight advantage, are you planning to use aluminum later on, or a thicker CF rod?
What was the diameter of the CF rod btw?

[mistercrash]

The diameter of the CF rod was 3 mm. I think the CF might just be to stiff and even if I tried a thicker rod, the same result may happen. Or if the rod doesn't have a little give into it, it might just transfer the impact to the rear shock tower and damage that area. I will run with the steel pushrod and see what happens. I am not worried about 10 grams added to the rear of the truck. I don't even think a factory driver would notice an added 10 grams of weight on a truck that is close to 12 pounds when running two 4S 3900 mah lipos