My e-revo brushless edition build

I saw you were asking about the mip axles well I have gone through a lot of axles thats for sure. I blew through the stocks in no time I got a set of traxxas axles and before I knew about buying the larger cups I could not keep them in my eRevo. So I got another set of axles off of flea bay from china made by bestRC they didn't even last through a full set of batts at 6s. So after spending way to much money on axles and not really getting any help I got the MIPs there are a very nice product but I don not think they did much fitment testing on the eRevo. They went together very easy and are a very strong product! The things I do not like about them is the fit on the spindles. Where the shaft goes into the bearing it the shoulder of the shaft doesn't even cover the whole bearing and considering the fact the the bearing isn't very wide I was a little unhappy. I was willing to over look that but when I put on the wheel adapters there was slop in the spindle that would let the shaft slide back and forth to much for me. I ended up shimming it to make them work and to tighten up the play in the front shaft. If you are interested I can take some photos of the issues I am talking about. The bad thing is that these axles set me back around 80 bucks and like you I don't mind paying the money for a well built product I just don't like spending that money on something I have to change to make it work. By the way thanks for all of this info!!! You have helped me so much and have done a ton of leg work that I wont have to do so I thank you.

[mistercrash]

Remember my little experiment in post #655? I spent a couple hours fitting LST XXL CVD shafts on my ERBE. There is still testing to be done, I will test on 6S with a couple of brand new Hyperion 45C/90C 500 mah lipos. The way I installed the shafts makes for a wider track, about ¾’’ wider so to get roughly the same track as before, I could use zero offset wheels. I only have ½’’ offsets so the truck is wiiiiiide.

Here is what I used.
- 4 Losi LST XXL CVD shafts (ebay)
- 4 15X21X4 bearings (Avid)
- 4 8X15X4 bearings (Avid)
- 1 set of RD Racing axles (Been running those since around 2004, same set)
- 1 set of Traxxas 17 mm hexes that have been bored to 8 mm with a 3 mm hole for the pin
2 Losi LST XXL diffs (I’ve been running LST diffs for a long time, details are in my thread)
- I used 2 RC Monster drive cups in the rear and 2 RCBest drive cups in the front, reason is, that’s what I had available. If the RCBest cups fail I will replace them with RC Monster cups.
I had a few 8X15X4 bearings from my LST that were gritty but I still kept them, I cut the outer race and used the inner race for shims behind the hexes.

Here’s the wide truck, either run it like that or use zero offset wheels or if you have the means to drill hardened steel then make a new hole in the right place to reposition the hexes close to the axle carriers.



Pic of the rear.



RC Monster drive cups in the rear



RCBest drive cups in the front



Here’s a close up of the shimming, two bearing inner race with two 0.3 mm shims on each wheel. I think the best way would be to make a new hole to bring the hexes close to the carriers. I will try it like that for now but I’m just worried of what this will do to the outer bearings.



A pic of what I did to pic up the slop of the inner 15X21X4 bearing in the RD Racing axle carrier. The perfect bearing would’ve had a 21”5 mm OD but I don’t think they exist so I put a piece of Gorilla tape around half of the bearing and it fits snug. Time will tell if the tape holds up. If not then I’ll use a shim made of thin metal like brass.



I'll probably find time to try it this weekend if it doesn't rain.

[Manne]

Nice. Thanks for the good info on bearing sizes etc. I hope that it won´t be any rain

[mistercrash]

No problem. I couldn't wait so I charged up the Hyperions and went at it in my favorite construction site. Those Hyperions are powerful I tell ya. From my experience with this ERBE, with the outside temp being around 50 degrees, and the level of abuse I put the truck through, I can say that for a first test, the shafts are very strong. I seriously doubt that the stock shafts or even Summit shafts would have survived. I also did a couple dozen full throttle starts from a stand still on the side walk. My throttle control is set too high and my slipper too loose to do standing back flips, but it went 3/4 of the way ending on the lid each time. Even these full throttle starts on high grip sidewalks didn't faze the shafts.
I could set the throttle control to zero and tighten the slipper but the center shafts are still stock so I would probably twist or snap those on 6S. The only option that I know of to replace the center shafts is the Kershaw Design dogbones.

[Manne]

Is it G3´s you are running? Overall hyperion are top notch indeed

Sounds really good in my ears! It´s a shame that it´s so costy to ship things one country to another, otherwise I would have sent you a set of summit shafts for the center and my "locked slipper mod" plate and let you try that drivetrain out for real...

I´excited to see how they hold up In the long term. Get some runtime with those Hyperions and report back to us. They should hold up tho... Seems to me like you never broke them on the Losi XXL? And that was with 40series mashers and 6s? Am I right?

And thanks for everything you have done so far Mr, It´s really helping people, newbies and oldies your work are outstanding! .

[mistercrash]

Yes they are G3s, they don't seem to break a sweat. My Turnigys Nanotech are usually around 110/115 after a full run. The G3s were just above 90. I am going to tighten the slipper as much as I can without breaking it. Yes I ran these shafts on the LST on 6S. The truck was 14 pounds RTR. In a whole summer of running, I only broke a shaft once, the pin that goes through the CVD and that little barrel shaped part that holds the grub screw. On a 10 pound ERBE, I suspect that they are going to be very tough. We'll see. I ran Summit shafts in the middle before. They are more durable but they get quite sloppy though. I really want to try the Kershaw dogbones and have a drive train with minimal slop.

[Manne]

Yeah, I have had My G3´s for more then a year now, and I have charged them with 4C almost everytime and they are still performing good. Nice, that will give it a real "try out". "We'll see. I ran Summit shafts in the middle before" So.. aren´t you running summit shafts in the middle now?

How about the traxxas steel centers? Is it that simple that you just don´t like them for some reason or is it because you have to drill them up to make them fit on the diff´s outputs?

You could use a Rc monster cup on the diff side...No drilling required.. Since they are dogbone looking on one side:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYCU2&P=7

[mistercrash]

Originally Posted by Manne

So.. aren´t you running summit shafts in the middle now?

I'm not running them now, I had to replace them with stock ones because they became so sloppy that they were about to fail. What's on my truck now is the stock middle shafts with RCM drive shaft coupler with 8 mm bore to match my LST XXL diffs.

The Traxxas middle CVDs would have been a very good option also, I just didn't think of it. The Kershaw dogbones with RCM drive cups (8mm bore) are on the way so I will try those. If it doesn't work out then it will be the Traxxas way.

[Manne]

Aha I see, that is quite amazing that you made the whole run without breaking them. I´m only running 4s and I wear them out crazy stupid fast in the rear..That is with my slipper locked tho.. Maybe it´s less wear with 6s and the slipper a bit loose.

Let´s hope the kershaws holds up good then! I will try the traxxas ones I think... I don´t want to deal with dan...To afraid to be fooled

Can´t wait to see the progress.

[mistercrash]

I'm taking another chance with Dan, I'll see how it works out. I was a little bothered by the wide track of my ERBE with those LST XXL shafts so I decided to see what I could do to bring the track back to normal. It was simple enough, the axles of the shafts are hardened steel but not quite hard enough to keep from using ordinary drill bits on them. I made new 3 mm holes to reposition the hexes where I wanted them and used an ordinary but good quality M5 tap to make deeper threads inside the axles for the grub screw to go further in.

Here's the new hole. I measured the center of the hole to be 19.5 mm from the tip of the axle.



Installed on a spare RD Racing axle carrier with a thick aluminum shim that is used on the pinion of an LST XXL diff.



So I don't have to measure each time to drill the holes, I made a jig from a scrap piece of metal. The axle slips into it and I just have to insert the drill bit in the correct hole. This block of metal was used for many other projects as a jig so that's why there are many holes in it.



I now have LST shafts on with the correct track width on the truck.

[mistercrash]

Now this is cool, I just modified a stock axle carrier to accept a 15X21 inner bearing and a 8X16 outer bearing so the LST XXL shafts could be used with the stock axle carriers. The 15X21 bearing presses right in using a 5/8'' socket and a vise. The opening for the outer bearing has to be enlarged to accept the 8X16 bearing. This brings the total cost of parts needed way down. I'll post pics this weekend.

I made a mistake when I listed the materials for this mod, I wrote that the outer bearing was 8X15 but it is really 8X16.

[mistercrash]

Pressing the 15X21 inner bearing in the axle carrier.



The outer bearing opening was enlarged just enough so that the outer 8X16 bearing could be pressed in also. This makes both bearings nice and snug with no play.



A full set of stock axle carriers with LST XXL CVD shafts ready for use. This took me just under 40 minutes to make.

[Manne]

Great job! Now I have a straight forward guide to do the converison Thanks alot.

The jig tip is brilliant.

I have one question tho, you said and showed that you enlarged the hole for the outer bearing, no big deal, but the inner one then? The 15x21? Did you actualy press it in the 12x18 stock bearings seat without makeing the seat bigger? Did you use a regular metal drill to do the outer bearing seat bigger?

Once again, Great job!

[mistercrash]

The carriers sit flat when the outer bearing opening is up so I chucked this carbide burr in the small benchtop drillpress.



Then I just adjusted the height so that the bit just misses that lip onto which the bearing sits and I slowly remove material going in a circular motion, doing my best to stay center. Not the most precise way of doing it but it works.



The inner bearing doesn't sit in the 18 mm space for the stock 12X18 bearing, the round opening in the carrier before the space for the stock bearing is just the right dimension to press that 15X21 bearing in. This bearing will sit on the lip create by the stock opening for the 12X18 bearing.

[Manne]

I see. Thanks a bunch. Now I just have to figure out how to get the lst diffs or similar in there without removing any material from the bulkhead. Or maybe I can do as you did and grind off the housing so I don´t have to remove so much from the bulks..Maybe it will hold up with the aluminium chassis...

Happy bashing.