My e-revo brushless edition build

[shaunjohnson]

well mrcrash..
following in your footsteps ive begun the mods to my revo (2.5, 3905 convert)
yesterday the imperial screws i needed finally arrived and i put in the threaded inserts to the bulkheads
bet it's loads stronger now.

and so far for the record ive had about 2.5 hours racetime on the summit driveshafts and they are showing minimal ware
just a note on the summit shafts tho...there are 2 grub screw threaded holes in the CV's..yet the summit shafts only come with enough parts to put the grub screw in one side only, so if when you do the driveshaft conversion (seems like a good idea to me) try and get some extra grub screws, i have a hunch that they are the same grub screws that come in 32p pinion gears (5mm shaft ones)

gotta save up for the diffs now to copy you some more
ive only got stocker E-revo diffs (CD too w/ ofna 500k) and i bet they suck compared to the LST diffs.

has anyone tryed the Torsion diffs from ofna or the Losi smart diff in their revo?

shaun

[brushlessboy16]

MC your the man, been using your revo as inspiration for mine.. started life as a 2.5r, getting the 3.3 chasis and body, e-revo trans and lst diffs.... not much of the original truck will be left

also thanks to all the other who inspired my inspiration, linc, sjrss(sp), etc.

[BL_RV0]

Originally Posted by brushlessboy16

also thanks to all the other who inspired my inspiration, linc, sjrss(sp), etc.

How do you inspire an inspiration?

[shaunjohnson]

Originally Posted by brushlessboy16

MC your the man, been using your revo as inspiration for mine.. started life as a 2.5r, getting the 3.3 chasis and body

why get the 3.3 chassis?
in MY experience hte 2.5 chassis handels better...well on the race track at least, dunno why the 3.3 chassis is always considered to be supirior.
i reckon the best setup you can have on a nitro revo is a 2.5 chassis and mod it to take a rear break kit and CD!! OMG it goes soo much better than the 3.3 w/ CD and rear brake

so i used the same principle and use a 2.5 chassis and a CD.

guess it's every man to themself.


as for center diff..i run ofna 500k in the yuckey traxxas diff and my temps are ok
i'm geared for 45mph ish on 5s w/ the MMM 2200 combo and after the highest load bashing i can dish up the MMM fan only comes on for about 3 secs and motor never gets to 120.
even after a 30 min main race the whole system is cool (120 max motor).
so i dont think the un-loading CD is causing the issue.

[mistercrash]

Well I never thought this would happen but my 8th scale center diff failed. The diff cup broke. I think it is my fault because I turned down the cup a little bit for more clearance which I'm sure weakened it. So I replaced it with a new unmodified cup and I went to extremes and put 100k in the diff and will see how I like it.

This is what I did to the cup before. The stock cup on the right and the modified on the left. Not a good idea as the whole center part of the diff cup broke off.

[sjcrss]

Thanks for the words of inspire of inspiration, as to B.boy's question about the smart diff, I've been kicking the idea around about putting on in my erevo, using the mod ring gear that i came up with, but i have been talking to the gassers, and they have told me that the springs fail sometimes, and honestly, there is a whole lot of stuff to remove , just to replace the springs in the CD, for now..I'm running 50k in the CD for now...but i will see about the other..I havn't fully committed to it yet....however, myself and MC have info for anyone who want to do the mod to the CD for the erevo....also a great big thumbs up to you MC, for keeping the thread alive, along with the variations of the original design....

[rawfuls]

Are there no alu cups?

[sjcrss]

I don't think a aluminum cup is needed, i think what is happening, is when MC, does a small modification, like trimming or something ( don't get upset on me), this tends to weaken the part, I have been running my same original 1st prototype 1/8 hyper CD, and havn't had a single issue at all, not even a small one, I inspected the whole thing this weekend when I switched out the 30k for 50k fluid, and saw no visual wear in the cup, gears, modded shafts or reng gear, the bearings all rolled freely as well.

[rawfuls]

That too...

[mistercrash]

I haven't had a chance to try the truck on the track but I'm liking how it handles on the street and grass with 100k in the CD. With some throttle control, accelerations are better than before with less unloading to the front. I'll keep on running it to see if I will stay with 100k. Up to now, it's good. I don't think I will ever try to go higher though.

[mistercrash]

I was at the track today for open practice and I got to run many batt cycles with the repaired CD with 100k. The truck ran awsome, I really like it and I am going to stick with this set up. A lot less unloading to the front but no wheelies. Wheelies only happen on asphalt, not on dirt. The temps were a lot better also with the new gearing. After a 25 minute run of pushing hard, with ambient temp in the mid eighties much like last time, motor = 140, ESC = 125, batts = 120.

[sjcrss]

glad to hear you found a setup that you like & works for you....for know I'm pleased with 50k in the center for me and with my gearing 20/68 as well. Any more suprise updates coming?

[mistercrash]

Originally Posted by sjcrss

Any more suprise updates coming?

I don't know what I could do or mod on this truck that would be categorized as a surprise update. I'm out of ideas for now. I have been thinking of a 4 mm thick tempered steel motor plate. I don't think the ERBE would even notice the few grams added in weight compared to the double aluminum plates I'm using now. A steel motor plate would definitely not flex like aluminum. But I haven't had any problems with the double alu plate I use now, other than some flexing under hard landings. And aluminum is better at dissipating heat.
My Deans connectors disconnected on two occasions while racing. Now I tape the connections with a piece of electrical tape and that solved the problem but it's a PITA. I'm thinking of going to 5.5 mm bullets but I'm afraid to make a mistake with connecting them when I'm in a hurry. I don't pay too much attention to what I'm doing sometimes and I don't want to make anything go poof
Also, I have had one occasion when one of my battery door opened and I was dragging one of my Neu lipos in the dirt So I want to come up with something that will keep those doors shut no matter what.

[rawfuls]

Velcro around the battery compartment?

Switch to EC5's or PowerPoles, I heard EC5's are a PITA to remove...

[shizzon]

Mistercrash, I had my E-revo out racing last night for the first time and had similar problems. My deans plugs came unpluged multiple times and I had a battery fall out 3 times!! One i didnt notice dragging untill i saw it dangling underneath my truck as it sored over the 30 foot feature jump!!!!!

Luckily the battery survived and is still in top working order, but i will be working on preventing it from happening again as it tends to slow you down on the track.