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KaztheMinotaur
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08.11.2009, 09:39 PM

My pinion came with out a set screw also. I will have to call them tomorrow.
   
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Ryu James
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08.11.2009, 10:01 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by KaztheMinotaur View Post
My pinion came with out a set screw also. I will have to call them tomorrow.
yeah i have already gone through calling them and jumping through hoops. just to save you some time what you need to do is email Deloris Miller at dmiller@sdp-si.com and explain what happened. give her part # and order #. i just got a reply form her today saying the engineer or something is checking things further. hopefully they will just get me another gear sent, even though i have already tapped the gear they sent now.


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Unsullied_Spy
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08.13.2009, 12:15 PM

That's what I was talking about with the Peltiers. The cold side gets really cold and the hot side gets really hot. If you don't keep the hot side properly cooled the whole unit will burn itself out. I've seen people using them before on computer CPUs and they had a rockin' watercooling setup to keep the hot side from overheating.


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big greg
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08.13.2009, 09:43 PM

is the other wire white? if so just cut it, its a tach wire to tell the speed of the fan or something, regular bl fans still only run on 2 leads
   
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suicideneil
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08.14.2009, 08:27 AM

Indeed, 99% of PC cooling fansd like this are BL- the white/yellow wire is the signal wire, so that when plugged into a fan controller or the PC's motherboard, the speed can be controlled to increase cooling when needed, or to decrease cooling & noise when not needed. The actual controller is built into the fan, you just vary the volts the vary the speed.
   
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KaztheMinotaur
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08.15.2009, 04:36 AM

I got my gear cooked today and they are no longer nice and shiny. I'm soaking them in degreaser to the gunk off. A minute or 2 with a wire wheel and I am starting to see silver again. Burned boiling oil smells horrible.

   
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Ryu James
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08.17.2009, 02:59 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by KaztheMinotaur View Post
I got my gear cooked today and they are no longer nice and shiny. I'm soaking them in degreaser to the gunk off. A minute or 2 with a wire wheel and I am starting to see silver again. Burned boiling oil smells horrible.

did you do it yourself or somewhere else do it for you? exactly how was it done, do you know?


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KaztheMinotaur
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08.17.2009, 03:36 PM

I bent a hook on the end of a straightened coat hanger and hung the gear on it. My mechanic heated it up with the torch to cherry and I dropped it into the oil.
   
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Ryu James
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08.17.2009, 04:12 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by KaztheMinotaur View Post
I bent a hook on the end of a straightened coat hanger and hung the gear on it. My mechanic heated it up with the torch to cherry and I dropped it into the oil.
just used motor oil? or new? 10w30? lol.


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Bondonutz
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08.18.2009, 04:41 PM

Supposedly using the used oil will add carbon to the heat treated part.


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KaztheMinotaur
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08.18.2009, 04:48 PM

True but there is carbon in any patroleum product.

Last edited by KaztheMinotaur; 08.18.2009 at 05:10 PM.
   
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Ryu James
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08.20.2009, 05:56 AM

so i had some time tonight and was able to make a little progress. the stock rampage rx box was perfect size to fit both my reciever and hydra esc. i mounted a 40mm fan on each side of the box blowing on the aluminum pipes of the esc. i think this will cool it sufficiently. the large hole where the motor leads exit should provide escape for warm air as the fans cool the esc. if it doesnt work, back to the drawing board. the esc is mounted securely inside and i could even waterproof the box with a little more work. also put 8mm bullets on esc wires.

next i am going to build a large top plate that combines the front and center top plates into one plate. this will help reduce chassis flex and will be the mounting place for this rx box. the brake and steering servo wires will just run in through one of the holes in the box. i like this configuration as it will look nice and clean when all is said and done.

just a question - why does the hydra esc not have a power switch? it only has the connector for the rx but that is it. there is no switch at all. is it supposed to be like this?

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florianz
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08.20.2009, 06:11 AM

I really like that design! cool idea.
a center top plate will help a lot, my first one was made of carbon, but too thin and broke after a crash. I have now installed a kind of "bar" made of epoxy/gfk (as seen in my thread), that allows a little torsion but still stabilizes the car.

I've tried different positions for the esc in my buggy, try to find a place as low and front as possible, as it weights quite a bit. I've placed mine on the steering servo, w. is the best place I think.

can't wait to see your truck rollin!
   
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KaztheMinotaur
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08.20.2009, 07:01 AM

It doesn't have a switch...it just turns on with the RX gets it's power. What are you doing to RX power?

I did a little work yesterday also. I'm going to run a 3S LiPo into a 3 way parallel split: BEC, fans, and lights.

I've also been tinkering around with a computer power supply. They can easily be converted to provide 3 / 5 / 12 volts to power a battery charger. You can even series 2 different ones together for any combination of the above.

Last edited by KaztheMinotaur; 08.20.2009 at 07:54 AM.
   
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RC-Monster Mike
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08.20.2009, 09:09 AM

The CC HV boat controllers are pretty rugged even without cooling. I ran a 180HV in a Baja on 8s and 10s with no fan or cooling measures at all and it never got hotter than 120F or so. I would expect a 4wd like this to heat things up a bit more, but the controllers are pretty rugged. People abuse the crap out of these ESCs in big boats with silly voltage and huge amp spikes. High end boat racing is as hard or likely harder on electronics than land use (these 4ft plus boats going 100+ MPH through the water is way more load than this 1/5 at 50mph).
   
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