High speed G-maxx for ISC event, 100mph or bust

[Rivermaxx]

So rolling into the throttle with no punch control is easier on the esc than without?. I really dont see how it will make a difference since I have to roll into no matter what . Unless the combination of punch control and rolling into the throttle is worse than no punch control and rolling into the throttle. I figure the PC will help out with amperage spikes from me getting to throttle happy. Theres no way I can just punch it full throttle from a dead stop. I am using the punch control too prevent wheelies and help smooth out accleration and prevent parts breakage more than anything. I am sure without it the tires may cut loose if I acclerate too fast. I need to play with it and see.

[PBO]

Originally Posted by Rivermaxx

So rolling into the throttle with no punch control is easier on the esc than without?. I really dont see how it will make a difference since I have to roll into no matter what . Unless the combination of punch control and rolling into the throttle is worse than no punch control and rolling into the throttle. I figure the PC will help out with amperage spikes from me getting to throttle happy. Theres no way I can just punch it full throttle from a dead stop. I am using the punch control too prevent wheelies and help smooth out accleration and prevent parts breakage more than anything. I am sure without it the tires may cut loose if I acclerate too fast. I need to play with it and see.

I don't see you punching the throttle off the line with or without punch control, you'll need to feed the throttle to about 60 before you can WOT

After driving my Rustler with a 1515 1.5, my punch control is my throttle finger

Edit: My reference to the splitter is that if set up right, it can keep the vehicle composed across the entire speed range & allow you to pull more throttle earlier by creating downforce

[brushlessboy16]

You guys act as if running punch control is putting the MMM past its operating envelope


Punch control is not physical current limiting. Nor does it limit full throttle opperation.

It is just a ramping of PWM value, it does exactly what pulling on the trigger slower would do. just dampens the increase of change from the throttle input. doesnt change anything at WOT

Punch control will be fine... the ramping will deaden the large amp spikes from jerky trigger movement and will help your batteries stay cool.

[Rivermaxx]

Originally Posted by brushlessboy16

You guys act as if running punch control is putting the MMM past its operating envelope


Punch control is not physical current limiting. Nor does it limit full throttle opperation.

It is just a ramping of PWM value, it does exactly what pulling on the trigger slower would do. just dampens the increase of change from the throttle input. doesnt change anything at WOT

Punch control will be fine... the ramping will deaden the large amp spikes from jerky trigger movement and will help your batteries stay cool.

That my Understanding of it also. I knew it didnt affect full throttle is just make it get there a little smoother. I personally think it an awesome design and I am glad this esc has the option. I wonder if I should adjust the linear graph curve or just leave it alone. Any recommendations?

[PBO]

Originally Posted by brushlessboy16

You guys act as if running punch control is putting the MMM past its operating envelope


Punch control is not physical current limiting. Nor does it limit full throttle opperation.

It is just a ramping of PWM value, it does exactly what pulling on the trigger slower would do. just dampens the increase of change from the throttle input. doesnt change anything at WOT

Punch control will be fine... the ramping will deaden the large amp spikes from jerky trigger movement and will help your batteries stay cool.

You really need your cells to be as warm as possible (65-70 degrees C) before a run. You'll get one full power run before most cells loose the window. If you run them cold it'll take a few runs to warm & by then you'll lost the best of the battery

[brushlessboy16]

Do that once you get the truck running. If there is one particular range of throttle where the truck pulls the wheels, then tweak the curve a bit

[Rivermaxx]

To much down force and speed will suffer not enough and its flying. What funny is I am running 2 6s 3300mah batts in parallel not 2 3s in series so I think I have alot more capacity and be able to do way more than 1 run without too much speed loss. After I came home after the first speed runs(like 3 good ones) my batts were still ~ 4volts. Yea I heard about warming the batts for best results. And as always the first run will be the best. Going out in a bit for a speed trial I will try to get some video.

[_paralyzed_]

trinity makes an excellent battery warmer, it wouldn't be a bad idea for the speed challenge,where you wait in line to do a run and can't warm the packs properly.

[brushlessboy16]

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

trinity makes an excellent battery warmer, it wouldn't be a bad idea for the speed challenge,where you wait in line to do a run and can't warm the packs properly.

Saw this in a magazine, said something about warming to 140 degrees.. seems a bit odd doesnt it?

[_paralyzed_]

Originally Posted by brushlessboy16

Saw this in a magazine, said something about warming to 140 degrees.. seems a bit odd doesnt it?

nope, that's the temp the electrons like to flow at. An inherent trait of lithium polymer technology

[_paralyzed_]

Originally Posted by Rivermaxx

And as always the first run will be the best.

only if the batteries are pre warmed, otherwise your 2nd or 3rd run will be the best. And lipos holding power allows multiple passes with identical performance(once they're warmed up), not one first good run like nimh's

[Rivermaxx]

Took the truck out tonight before it got dark and the tire seem to be doing their job. Obviously no balloning and I got it up to 67 mph a little over 1/2 throtle but it starts too drift and is really hard to control and I had to let off. It definatly has alot left in it as I gave it about 3/4 throttle going 50mph and you could hear the tires break loose and it started sliding sideways so there is lots of power still availiable.The hitec servo has a little play in the gearbox and it hard to get it to go perfectly straight I checked 5 hitech servos and all had a little play. I wonder if I should have some toe in or toe out maybe to help with stability a little. I also think I am going to have to put verticle stabilizers and/or low down force wing. I think a giro is in order also. I am not going to do any vids until I get atleast 80 mph and I know it can do it but need to figure how to control it some how. It did do a 50 mph power slide and it fliped it over wheels got a little scuffed but nothing else was hurt glad I used this jacked up body, the packing tape held it on good lol. After about 6 60+ mph passes the batts still have 4 volts left in them.

[_paralyzed_]

like 1 degree rear toe-in will help track straight. for straightline speed fronts should be neutral

[Rivermaxx]

I actually have about 1* toe in in the rear the fronts are neutral also but it is still hard to control. The road crown probably didnt help at all either. I notice under acceleration it started to pull to the left. Whats up with that? If I cruise about 20 mph it goes straight.

[PBO]

Originally Posted by Rivermaxx

I notice under acceleration it started to pull to the left. Whats up with that? If I cruise about 20 mph it goes straight.

Sounds like torque steer