Monster GT Conversion With A Center Diff

[Kcaz25]

What do I win? RPM arms does not make an upgraded EMaxx.

[_paralyzed_]

I know. You're making the cd/motor mount out of marshmallow fluff and you are using bananas as driveshafts. The chassis becomes a dish and you use maraschino cherries as body posts.

Everyone loves a banana split with a center diff but it is too little too late. Been done too many times.

Even carbon fiber sprinkles are played out. You gotta step up your game man.

[Krawlin]

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

I know. You're making the cd/motor mount out of marshmallow fluff and you are using bananas as driveshafts. The chassis becomes a dish and you use maraschino cherries as body posts.

Everyone loves a banana split with a center diff but it is too little too late. Been done too many times.

Even carbon fiber sprinkles are played out. You gotta step up your game man.

You know, with that kind of imagination with food, you could be on one of those Food Network "Challenge" shows, you could make a killer RC themed cake.


It wont be carbon fiber, it's something that can cut with a plasma cutter. Let me put it this way, you will think it's 1 or both of these things once its done.... "What a stupid metal to use" and/or "That is overkill". But it will look cool.


This will probably give it away, but what do you guys think of powder coating for RC parts? Any good? I don't want to leave it as bare metal, but I don't really want to paint it.

[_paralyzed_]

powder coating is cool, especially on a part like a center diff that won't really come in contact with anything.

Just like anodizing anything that bumps or scrapes something solid will leave an unsightly blemish.

Unless you are going to make a shelf queen i'd just spray paint the parts and spend the money you saved on getting laid

[Krawlin]

I may just polish to a mirror finish and clean it with a rag and WD40 every few runs to keep the finish.

[Krawlin]

Originally Posted by Kcaz25

What do I win? RPM arms does not make an upgraded EMaxx.

I didn't have just RPM arms, I had a UE Knucklehead towers, UE monoblock, FLM combo bulks, T-Maxx chassis, GH aluminum center braces, HCR titanium skids, Lunsford titanium hinge pins, all 3.3 spec shafts and knuckles, rear RPM true-track, front Traxxas Tubes turnbuckles, FLM aluminum diff cups, GH aluminum steering setup, and the center diff setup that is now in my MGT used to be in my Maxx. It was upgraded enough to a point where it probably shouldn't have broken very often, but it did, so I ditched it. Maybe I am just a sucky driver or abuse my trucks too much, but so far the Monster GT has been alot stronger.

When it broke the front lower RPM arms at the hinge pin hole, it also bent the front lower Lunsford titanium hinge pins. IMO because of poor design, there is no middle hole for the arms like on the Monster GT, meaning less arm support, which results in bent hinge pins, and broken/bent shocks from the arms twisting around. I really liked my Maxx, enjoyed it alot for over 2 years, and enjoyed upgrading it and such, but having to fix it after every run got kind of old. The Maxx may be alot better with like every UE part on it, but that's because they alter the design and improve on the Maxx. Parts that utilize stock designs still seem just as bad as stock parts sometimes. Just my opinion though. The MGT works better for me, your Maxx works better for you, so lets leave it at that.

[rawfuls]

I think I know what the metal is too :P

[Krawlin]

Somewhat bad news, I just realized that plasma cutters have about an 1/8'' cutting width (roughly), so it would probably cut the holes way too big (the 4 small ones at the middle and bottom of the motor plate, and top plate). So I will probably have 1 cut with the holes just to see how it looks, and if it fails, then I'll delete the 4 smaller holes on the motor plate and the two holes on the top plate, and narrow the 3 motor holes. I might also have to get rid of the heatsink fins, depending on how they turn out on the first one I have cut out.

Expect pictures of the close to finished product tomorrow night.

[Krawlin]

PICTURES!!!

And don't mind the welds on the one that is already welded together, I still have ALOT of finish work to do, and I had to do a bunch of smaller tack welds because my attempt at a bead made a globby mess (I think I had my voltage and wire speed up too high for small stuff like this, and it's welded using MIG. When I weld the others I will lower the settings alot and see how they turn out with legitimate weld beads).

Anyway, all the parts came out great, the CNC plasma cutter is amazing. Very little slag, only a couple of the motor plates had real stuck on slag, everything else just came right off with the wire wheel. I still have to drill holes in everything though, if I left the holes in the CAD drawing for the CNC plasma cutter to cut out, it would have made them way too big since they have like a 1/12'' cutting width.

[rawfuls]

What's the weight on that fatty?

[Krawlin]

It weighs 6.75 ounces (192 grams). Not too bad considering it's 3/16'' (4.5mm) steel. Possibly overkill, but I didn't want it to bend.

[rawfuls]

I'm dumb, but what's those spikes things for?

also guessing, those "shinier" spots are sanded down? Why not sand very lightly and get a nice shiny finish? Probably something else..

[Krawlin]

The "spikes" were actually supposed to be heatsink fins, since steel holds heat better than aluminum does. Seemed like a good idea at the time, but hey, they still look cool.

[_paralyzed_]

Mmmmm.... Beefy!

[Krawlin]

New Pictures!!!

Ground down the welds so they look nice, I still have a few more tack welds I need to do on this mount though, then I will grind down the new tack welds and get it ready for paint. I will also be welding the other motor mounts today.

Anyway, here's the good part, pictures!