LOSI LST XXL Conversion ideas

[Chadworkz]

I run Traxxas Extended-Wheelbase arms in the rear, and RPM doesn't make any Extended-Wheelbase rear arms yet, plus I don't like how much RPM arms flex, so I don't run them.

[Muggydude]

The flex in RPMs arms prevent other things from braking, while still not braking themselves. I would tell you the front are worth getting, as they usually take more abuse than the rear.

[Chadworkz]

I know all about RPM, I have run them on various vehicles, and their flex can also be a bad thing. They can cause bent or broken shock shafts, bent CVDs, bent or broken turnbuckles or pushrods, etc., etc.. Plus, they are even worse for racers, because of their flex...when they flex, it completely messes up your suspension settings and geometry, causing your vehicle to handle poorly.

Anyway, I don't like them, so I don't run them.

[Muggydude]

Good input. I'll keep that in mind.

[maneba]

Great work!!! As usually from you...

[jpoprock]

WOW WOW WOW! Thank you so much Ray!!! That is awesome!!!! Now I "get it"! I wonder why you chose to cut the piece with the template facing down? Wouldn't it be a little easier if you could see exactly where you were supposed to go? I realize that you're feeling your way thru it, but i would prefer the stock piece facing up so I could see the path.

Also... is it important to wear gloves? Or is that preference? I have a shop vac, but I wonder if you need to buy one of those special dry wall filters for it when sucking up carbon fiber?

I just can't believe how easy this is, now that I've seen it. I'm gonna buy a router table at Harbor Freight now pronto! The next thing I need to work on is the shank. So basically you want to use the smaller 1/8" bits and the shank for small areas, and the 1/4" bit for larger sections. Is that right? I believe that i already have a shank and 1/8" bit for my dremel, but I don't have a 1/4" bit I don't think. I may, since I own a Rotozip tool.

Boy... you've just opened a pandora's box for me!! My wife is going to HATE ME now. HA!!!

Jason

[JThiessen]

Originally Posted by jpoprock

WOW WOW WOW! Thank you so much Ray!!! That is awesome!!!! Now I "get it"! I wonder why you chose to cut the piece with the template facing down? Wouldn't it be a little easier if you could see exactly where you were supposed to go? I realize that you're feeling your way thru it, but i would prefer the stock piece facing up so I could see the path.

Also... is it important to wear gloves? Or is that preference? I have a shop vac, but I wonder if you need to buy one of those special dry wall filters for it when sucking up carbon fiber?

I just can't believe how easy this is, now that I've seen it. I'm gonna buy a router table at Harbor Freight now pronto! The next thing I need to work on is the shank. So basically you want to use the smaller 1/8" bits and the shank for small areas, and the 1/4" bit for larger sections. Is that right? I believe that i already have a shank and 1/8" bit for my dremel, but I don't have a 1/4" bit I don't think. I may, since I own a Rotozip tool.

Boy... you've just opened a pandora's box for me!! My wife is going to HATE ME now. HA!!!

Jason

The reason he was doing it upside down was so that the non-cutting portion of the bit was acting as the guide. If you wanted to do it the other way around, you would need a bit with a guide bearing on the end of it - which only come in 1/4" diameter or larger. If you dont have any radii smaller than 1/8'' (half the 1/4" dia) then your fine.

Regarding gloves and power equipment. General rule of thumb is to NEVER wear anything that can get caught in a moving part and pull your body parts into the blade. However, with CF, you have that nasty dust and slivers to contend with. Plus the gloves he had on were more likely to tear than pull - but as close as his finger got a few times, I bet he would have ended up with a nasty little chunk taken out of the finger. Personally, I would do it without gloves, or maybe even try some of those rubber sewing thimbles.

ps. Check your local Craigslist before you go buy a new one. A variable speed router would also be very beneficial for projects like this.

[jpoprock]

Originally Posted by JThiessen

The reason he was doing it upside down was so that the non-cutting portion of the bit was acting as the guide. If you wanted to do it the other way around, you would need a bit with a guide bearing on the end of it - which only come in 1/4" diameter or larger. If you dont have any radii smaller than 1/8'' (half the 1/4" dia) then your fine.

Regarding gloves and power equipment. General rule of thumb is to NEVER wear anything that can get caught in a moving part and pull your body parts into the blade. However, with CF, you have that nasty dust and slivers to contend with. Plus the gloves he had on were more likely to tear than pull - but as close as his finger got a few times, I bet he would have ended up with a nasty little chunk taken out of the finger. Personally, I would do it without gloves, or maybe even try some of those rubber sewing thimbles.

ps. Check your local Craigslist before you go buy a new one. A variable speed router would also be very beneficial for projects like this.

Thanks man. Yes... I can't have chunks taken out of my hands... because I play guitar in a band on the weekends. For MONEY. So... I can't be getting hurt!

It just seems strange to have to work upside down like that. I would spend more time worrying about what areas I wasn't getting to, flipping and checking, and maybe wasting time. But over time, I'm sure it will be easier. I have a variable speed DREMEL, but no router/table. I may have one my father in law will give me though, so that will be nice. I have checked Craigslist... and you can get a nice set up for $200. But don't I have to find a router that has a 1/4" or less chuck on it?? Some of them have bigger ones. But then again... that's max size, not minimum size. I'll just use my dremel collet to use the 1/8" bit.

[mistercrash]

I bought CF from Graphite girl also and it was good. But I prefer Full Force RC and Penguin RC. I got the 3 mm thick CF from Full Force and the 2.5 mm CF from Penguin RC for this project.

I have pdf files of the top chassis plate, the middle skid and the front skid doubler I made if anyone wants them. You just print them out and use them as templates. The drawings are pretty accurate and everything should line up nicely.

PM me your email if you want them.

[jpoprock]

Originally Posted by mistercrash

I bought CF from Graphite girl also and it was good. But I prefer Full Force RC and Penguin RC. I got the 3 mm thick CF from Full Force and the 2.5 mm CF from Penguin RC for this project.

I have pdf files of the top chassis plate, the middle skid and the front skid doubler I made if anyone wants them. You just print them out and use them as templates. The drawings are pretty accurate and everything should line up nicely.

Email me if you want the pdf files.

raymondduchesne@sympatico.ca

So... how do you implement using these as templates? Cut them out of whatever and attach your CF to it for routing like in your vid? Or can you actually trace over a CF sheet and rout it out that way? Seems like doing it that way would be LESS accurate, but I don't know.

[JThiessen]

Originally Posted by mistercrash

I have pdf files of the top chassis plate, the middle skid and the front skid doubler I made if anyone wants them. .

If those are the PDF's I gave you, I have updated ones now. The LST2 length chassis plates were good, but the XXL files were off a bit, both on hole locations, and length of chassis.

Wow, now I learned something. I basically have everything needed ,also. Thanks for sharing, I guess I'll have to try this out.

[mistercrash]

JT, I wear the gloves because a little strand of carbon fiber under the skin is painful and very hard to get out. It happened to me once and I had to dig with the hobby knife to finally be able to get it with tweezers. The gloves give me some protection against that. The gloves I use for this are nitrile gloves because they are thin and tear easily. I don't use latex or urathane gloves because they are too thick and tough and stretchy. They would pull my finger on the bit instead of just tearing.
Also, it is a small bit with fine teeth on it. If your finger touches it, it will take off some skin but you need to push and keep the finger on the bit for it to dig deep enough for it to bleed. Would I wear gloves and get my fingers that close to a saw blade? Never. I know my tools, I respect the damage they can do. So don't be yelling at me no more

[JThiessen]

Alright, I'll quit now!!! Whiner.....

[mistercrash]

This should protect my shock shafts from dust and debris. Party balloons and electrical tape. This worked very well on my E-Revo so it should work for the LST.