1406 4 pole 4600kv

[slimthelineman]

The higher kv motor will run a little hotter than a lower kv one but in such a light car I don't think it will be much hotter. The four poles makes it alot smoother and stronger on the bottom than a two pole IMO. Have fun with I and post a pic when ya get it all together.

Originally Posted by slimthelineman

The higher kv motor will run a little hotter than a lower kv one but in such a light car I don't think it will be much hotter. The four poles makes it alot smoother and stronger on the bottom than a two pole IMO. Have fun with I and post a pic when ya get it all together.

My order is on back order. So I asked Dena if she can change it to the 4600kv combo. We'll see what she says.

ben

[slimthelineman]

Right on man, the 4600 rocked in my lcg. Ran sooooo cool and made so much power. Can't wait for the rebuild kits to come out so I can use it again. You will love the smooth power and low temps.

Originally Posted by slimthelineman

Right on man, the 4600 rocked in my lcg. Ran sooooo cool and made so much power. Can't wait for the rebuild kits to come out so I can use it again. You will love the smooth power and low temps.

Well, even though yesterday I was told it was on back order for two weeks, Dena emailed me today to tell me the order already shipped. She offered that I could send it back and exchange it. Is it worth the hassle do you think?

ben

[slimthelineman]

Idk I like my rigs fast. You'll be lookin at around 40k rpm with the 5700. Quite a bit but not too much IMO. You run on a fairly big track? You could always limit it with the esc settings like max throttle or torque control. Punch controll is horrible for racing from my experience but to each his own I guess. I would run the 5700 since you were planning on it anyway and just see how it does. It will definately be fast!

[Pdelcast]

Originally Posted by slimthelineman

Idk I like my rigs fast. You'll be lookin at around 40k rpm with the 5700. Quite a bit but not too much IMO. You run on a fairly big track? You could always limit it with the esc settings like max throttle or torque control. Punch controll is horrible for racing from my experience but to each his own I guess. I would run the 5700 since you were planning on it anyway and just see how it does. It will definately be fast!

Slim,

I agree punch control is terrible -- but the new "torque control" option is AWESOME... give it a try.

Patrick

[outlaw]

I agree with Patrick !
torque control is really great !

Well, because Dena was kind enough to do an exchange, I sent the 5700 back. It means I have to wait, but it should be worth it in the end.

ben

I sure hope someone has a suggestion for me. I just installed a new Castle Creations 4600kv 4-pole motor in my 2wd Slash. At the same time I changed the diff fluid to 50,000wt and change the gearing to 18/86.

On my test run in the street it pulls very aggressively to the right (to be honest now that I'm back in the house I can't remember if it was left or right) when on full power. I mean it will sometimes just spin out because I can't counter steer it enough. Especially from a stand still. Clearly one of the wheels is getting more drive than the other, but why?

I've checked the wheels and drive axles and nothing seems to be binding at all. There are no weird noises either.

What could be the cause?

I hate tearing into the diff on this truck. You have to remove so much to get to it. Otherwise I'd investigate, but hoping to get some clear suggestions from people who may have experienced this before I open anything up.

ben

[bruce750i]

I've ran the new 7700-0m9wTf in a Sc10 for a spell. Some kids watching me bash, asked if the truck had a turbo, I said "yes it does", I couldn't stop stabbing the throttle. At 12/87ish 2s the rpms sounded wicked. I overheard another racer ask his friend after seeing it excelerate(high grip track) if it was a 4x4. He didnt understand, It's a Castle 1406!

This Bud's for you Patrick and the Castle Creation team

I would go 4600 for more voltage options.

[bruce750i]

It's a 2wd Slash, without diff fluid. The tire that breaks traction first will get all that 1406 power.

Originally Posted by bruce750i

It's a 2wd Slash, without diff fluid. The tire that breaks traction first will get all that 1406 power.

I just took the diff apart and it still had most of the fluid I had put in previously. To experiment I put in some HPI diff grease and buttoned everything up again.

On this test run, the problem wasn't as pronounced as before on the throttle, but it was still there. It was especially noticable when braking hard. The left rear tire would lockup but the right would continue to roll. This would cause it to swing left during breaking.

This is going to make driving it in the dirt tricky.

ben

[slimthelineman]

Sounds like your diff is not working properly at all. Under braking if one tire locks up the other should do the same cause the motor won't let anything spin. The fact that one tire still spins is highly irregular. Check your susp for binding and make sure your right side slider is not stripped or the axle pin has not sheared behind the hex. The 1406 put out crazy power and is capable of destroying said parts. I'm still waiting for cc to release the rebuilds so I can get a new front endbell on mine and put it back into my lcg slash for more punishment.

Originally Posted by slimthelineman

Sounds like your diff is not working properly at all. Under braking if one tire locks up the other should do the same cause the motor won't let anything spin. The fact that one tire still spins is highly irregular. Check your susp for binding and make sure your right side slider is not stripped or the axle pin has not sheared behind the hex. The 1406 put out crazy power and is capable of destroying said parts. I'm still waiting for cc to release the rebuilds so I can get a new front endbell on mine and put it back into my lcg slash for more punishment.

I'm at a complete loss. The 2WD Slash is kicking my butt with this issue. I just checked the axles and pins on the hexes and they are good. No binding in the suspension. The diff gears are all in tact too.

On the bench everything looks like its supposed to, but of course not while driving. I'm having to run the slipper pretty loose to keep it from stepping out while on the throttle. And as I already mentioned, the braking is also making it step out.

ben

[slimthelineman]

Try this, hold the spur and spur side tire and try to turn the left tire. If it turns your diff is shot. If it doesn't spin your diff is good and the problem lies elsewhere. Could be any number of things such as balance, preload on your shocks etc. Asphalt is not really a good testbed for offroad setups IMO. Tighten up your slipper and take it to the track for testing. Honestly I think your just diffing out due to the light oil or grease you have in there. I run 30k in my flm diff and it's still a bit light but gives me the best balance for my driving style. Kinda tough to work with the stock diff but try to find some of ofnas diff grease in 30-50k. Should really help with all that power your 1406 is putting out.