Picked up a Stampede 4x4!!

[lincpimp]

Ok, my 4 flute 12mm endmill arrived today. I will try to make some progress tomorrow after work. I need to figure a way to hold the rear hub without distorting it, but make sure it stays parallel to the cutting face of the endmill. I have a few ideas.

[J57ltr]

What does the hub look like? I might have a vice I can loan you.

Jeff

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by J57ltr

What does the hub look like? I might have a vice I can loan you.

Jeff

Well, it is rounded on the sides, and has a lower area that the hinge pin goes thru, and an upper L shaped arm that the upper link attaches to. I was thinking that I can make a block out of plastic/wood that holds the hub by the lower and upper portions, as they have flat parallel sides, and it would have a cutout in the center for the rounded portion to fit. Make any sense?

Heres a link to the part and a pic: http://www.rcdirectonline.com/produc...-TRA-1952.html

[J57ltr]

Yup, you could also melt wax into it to hold it firmly stick it in the fridge and then bore it out. Since it's plastic you won't have much problem boring it, but getting it perfectly centered is going to be a problem. I am assumung that you are going to do this on a drill press. I don't know what kind of measuring tools you have but I have yet to see a drill press that is square to the spindle, so make sure to compensate for that. The vice I have is in this thread.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...highlight=vice

I also have some Delrin I could give you so you can make a jig. I don't think I would have time to make one for you, I have to go to Baton Rouge on Monday. But I could either ups it to you or if you want to meet me half way I could bring it with me.

It looks like a regular Rustler hub I have some of those. If it is then I think I might be able to whoop one up for you.

Jeff

[lincpimp]

Yes, it will be on a drill press. You would laugh if you saw me setup stuff like this.

I have an small vice that bolts to the press table. I am thinking I can make a platform with a slot in it that will hold the upper portion of the hub, and them use some material on either side of the bottom area to clamp the hun in place. The platform will hold the hub perpendicular to the endmill, and the spacers will stop the hub rotating.

I like your wax idea, but I would have to do one side at a time, remove the wayx, and them reset the hub the other way around in the wax to do the other side.

I have a way to "precisely" center the hub so that I get the bearing centered, again you would laugh if I described it.

The delrin would be handy, I cannot leave work due to family issues and lack of staff, but would gladly pay the shipping.

[J57ltr]

Believe me if you saw half the ghetto stuff I have to do. I am in the middle of R&D on a new scale and I have 2 precision blocks welded to a 3/8" thick plate. I had our welder make it for me and he just tacked it in place. One was about .5* off and I had to cut and tack it back in place then weld it across to make it stronger but when I did, everything shifted on me (as SST does). So I had to use a precision hammer to beat it back into place, precisely. So no I wouldn't laugh.

Let me know I'll cut you some blocks of Delrin in the morning. I have some that is 2" thick and is flat top and bottom. I also have 1" thick and some other sizes.

Jeff

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by J57ltr

Believe me if you saw half the ghetto stuff I have to do. I am in the middle of R&D on a new scale and I have 2 precision blocks welded to a 3/8" thick plate. I had our welder make it for me and he just tacked it in place. One was about .5* off and I had to cut and tack it back in place then weld it across to make it stronger but when I did, everything shifted on me (as SST does). So I had to use a precision hammer to beat it back into place, precisely. So no I wouldn't not laugh.

Let me know I'll cut you some blocks of Delrin in the morning. I have some that is 2" thick and is flat top and bottom. I also have 1" thick and some other sizes.

Jeff

2" would be good, as it would clear the vise I have and allow me to eyeball stuff (my precision instrument) a bit better.

And these hub carrier are actually the same as the nitro rustler/pede, a little different from the elctric 2wd rusty/pede models. 1952 is a very old traxxas number, looked funny when I 1st saw it!!

[J57ltr]

Can you use 1" Thick 2" tall? I looked this morning and all I can fine is a bunch of 1"

Jeff

[thzero]

Good thing you didnt' say 1" thick, 2" long... linc might have gotten confused. ;)

[lincpimp]

1x2 should work. I think the vice will go at least 2". What is the 3rd dimension?

[J57ltr]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

1x2 should work. I think the vice will go at least 2". What is the 3rd dimension?

I have 1" in like 4' by 8' sheets, and tons of scrap in about the 12" X 12" size. Most of it is UHMW (Think cutting board material), but it should work fine for a jig. It's 1" thick so whatever dims you want I'll make for you. I'll just cut it up on the bandsaw then mill it flat so it's parallel, just let me know.

Jeff

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by J57ltr

I have 1" in like 4' by 8' sheets, and tons of scrap in about the 12" X 12" size. Most of it is UHMW (Think cutting board material), but it should work fine for a jig. It's 1" thick so whatever dims you want I'll make for you. I'll just cut it up on the bandsaw then mill it flat so it's parallel, just let me know.

Jeff

Ok, sounds good. I will measure the vice and let you know.

[lincpimp]

OK, just got some parts in.

I have a pretty much off the shelf cvd option here. It does require bearings with a 6mm inner, so either go with a 6x11 as a drop in replacement, or enlarge the hub carrier to fit a 6x12.

Using these parts:

HPI 80853 70mm savvy center driveshaft (made by mip)
Mip 1488 tmaxx axle
Mip 1147 rebuild kit
stock hex drilled to 6mm inner or the tekno 12mm hex for 6mm axle?
stock tmaxx wheel drive pin trimmed slightly or a shorter pin?
revo diff outputs (drop in fit for the stampy diff, with 6mm outputs)
6mm bore drivecups, long length (will need some help identifying these)

So you end up with a seriously stong 1/8 scale size mip rear cvd setup, larger 6x12 bearings and 6mm outputs in the diff.

You are all welcome.

Pics to follow.

[Bondonutz]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

OK, just got some parts in.

I have a pretty much off the shelf cvd option here. It does require bearings with a 6mm inner, so either go with a 6x11 as a drop in replacement, or enlarge the hub carrier to fit a 6x12.

Using these parts:

HPI 80853 70mm savvy center driveshaft (made by mip)
Mip 1488 tmaxx axle
Mip 1147 rebuild kit
stock hex drilled to 6mm inner or the tekno 12mm hex for 6mm axle?
stock tmaxx wheel drive pin trimmed slightly or a shorter pin?
revo diff outputs (drop in fit for the stampy diff, with 6mm outputs)
6mm bore drivecups, long length (will need some help identifying these)

So you end up with a seriously stong 1/8 scale size mip rear cvd setup, larger 6x12 bearings and 6mm outputs in the diff.

You are all welcome.

Pics to follow.

Where are these pic's Pimple ?

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by Bondonutz

Where are these pic's Pimple ?

Bite me. On second thought, keep your hands to yourself!!!

I will get some pics up when I have something pic worthy.

So I did try to open up the stock carrier with the 12mm end mill. Not easy to do without a mill, and some sort of contraption to hold the carrier.

So I ordered a set of the tekno rear hubs, cost about 10 bucks shipped. I got the .5 deg models as I really do not like alot of fixed toe in on my basher rides. I would rather they go a bit faster than turn in super tight.

The tekno carrier is big, beefy and looks really stout. Very well made part. It uses a 6x12x4 outer bearing, and a 15x10x4 inner bearing. Outer bearing size is just what we wnat to use the 6mm tmaxx axles. The inner bearing is too big, but it can be replaced with an off the shelf 6x15x5 bearing.

I did not order the bearings, as I was not sure if the maxx axle would be long enough with the 6x15x5 bearing installed, as it is 1mm longer than the bearing tekno specs. I did some measuring and we are good to go with the 6x15x5 bearing.

The tekno hub is about 12.75mm thick at the bearing area, measured from the face of the front bearing to the back of the carrier, imagine the same plane the axle rides in. Since the inner bearing is recessed into the carrier with the tekno spec-ed bearing you get about 11mm from 1 bearing face to the other. With the thicker 6x15x5 bearing in there we are looking at around 12mm. The tmaxx axle is a bit longer than that from the cvd area to the pin hole. So it looks like 1 traxxas 6mm id teflon washer will take up the slack. Perfect.

I will order the 6x15x5 bearings and some 6mm id washers.

This will increase bearing life and load holding alot, as the bearings are much bigger than the stock 5x11 turds. Traxxas really needed to step up to 6mm axles and larger sliders, the old rusty/pede stuff is way overtaxed in a heavier vehicle like this.

So total cost so far:

hpi cvd shafts $2 for a pair (super ebay sale)
tmaxx axles $8 for a pair
mip cvd parts (free)
tekno .5 deg rear hubs $10
long drive cups (free)
6x12x4 bearings (free)
6x15x5 bearis (tbd)
revo 6mm diff outputs (free)
assorted hardware (free)

So I have about 20 bucks in this, if you do not count the endmill ($7) and my time (priceless).

And I will end up with some super sturdy cvds/axles! Much bigger cvd joints and thicker shafts than the tekno or others. Hell, this stuff works on maxx and savvy trucks, should last forever on a pede 4x4, which likely weighs 4lbs less.

I will say that the front driveshafts have not worn at all. (only had about 3 packs thru it) I will leave them in untill they crap out and see if my rear solution will work in the front. I will buy the tekno hubs as it makes fitting bearings alot easier with limited machine tools.