Looks like you had fun though and we all know you did this because your bored and like to work on it just as much drive it lol. Try droping the camera again maybe it will fix itself. As far as the axle givin up the ghost it was bound to happen with that amount of power and those big ass tires. I had those same tires on my kids t-maxx because I didnt want him to break anything. Those tire just bounced off everthing without a scratch lol. I am really surprised you havent striped a hex yet, those are 14mm right?
Looks like you had fun though and we all know you did this because your bored and like to work on it just as much drive it lol. Try droping the camera again maybe it will fix itself. As far as the axle givin up the ghost it was bound to happen with that amount of power and those big ass tires. I had those same tires on my kids t-maxx because I didnt want him to break anything. Those tire just bounced off everthing without a scratch lol. I am really surprised you havent striped a hex yet, those are 14mm right?
True- its overdue a strip down ( ) and rebuild..
Camera is thoroughly borked though, and my efforts to 'fix' it made sure it stays borked No biggie, wasnt worth much.
14mm hex yeah- a few of them are getting a little bit stretched, but they are holding up quite well. I'll just glue the hexes inside the wheels at some point to strengthen em up again.
Rotational mass, its an axle killer for sure, but I have spares...
Im looking at getting some 40series bowties or similar- they are still quite large, but alot lighter compared to what I have now, and should allow for a bit better handling on grass too.
Luckily the camera I killed was my old one, an amazing 4 MP 6x optical zoom item I've had for 6 years, recently replaced by a nice FZ28 ( I wont be strapping that to the truck in a hurry). Gonna replace it with a dirt cheap little digital camera for truck duties, something alot smaller and lighter that wont have a telescopic lens to damage.
Yeah, slipper problem isnt anything serious, just needs more glue
Im about to tear the truck down so I'll be able to see exactly where the damage is- it looks like the bulk has bent where it attaches to the chassis (upper and lower plates), so the strobe braces woudnt have prevented it.
I dont worry too much though, its all part & parcel of the hobby...
Ok, I checked several sites and cant seem to find a g4 for my build who is hiding them and if gorillamaxx is saying they are still fabricating them, why arent they available from rcmonster or should i use Fastlane Machine or am i 2yrs to late in finishing my build LOL
Ok, I checked several sites and cant seem to find a g4 for my build who is hiding them and if gorillamaxx is saying they are still fabricating them, why arent they available from rcmonster or should i use Fastlane Machine or am i 2yrs to late in finishing my build LOL
they were in stock briefly about 3 weeks ago. those G-4's go FAST.
Anyways, after the bash session, came the tear down and inspection:
I owe an apology to someone- seems that the steel idler did indeed eat into the aluminium output gear. Its not as bad as it looks though, seems like its just worn down one half roughly of each tooth's face, creating a little burr along the edges. Reluctantly then, I've decided to swap over the idler for one of the rc4wd items- I'll open up the tranny again after a few more runs and see how it looks.
Pebble dashed lower A-arms. I could put some dirt guards over them like some guys are doing on their buggies and truggies, but Im not really bothered as such- battle scars are sexy
I even opened up the rear diff for an inspection, and was happy to see zero wear on the ring & pinion gears. The only slight wear to report is on the output shafts- the hole for driveshaft yolk retaining screw pin has been slightly elongated into an oval shape. Not a big issue really, and its better that the metal has a bit of stretch to it rather than sheering unexpectedly- it may snap one day, but it wont be for a while, and is easily replaced.
I also fixed the slipper- a few bits of sandpaper super glued to the spur and onto the slipper plates creates alot of friction that will be hard to budge- I'll have to test that theory though.
Beyond that, the Gmaxx will live to fight another day.
I brought the fact up that a steel gear will eat up an aluminum one. No apology needed, how many run did you have on it since you lubed it last?. Now with the new setup, the steel input gear is going to eat up the aluminum idler gear. Aluminum does not make good gears for sure, when it wears it turns into alumminum oxide which is used for sandpaper. I wonder if we could find a delrin gear we could make work. I also read you can boil the stock plastic gear for 10 minutes and it would last longer but I have no way to confirm this. I would just run the steel idler with a stock plastic gear mine seem to be holding good on 6s. When it lets go just buy a new one for ~$5 shiped. Maybe put smaller lighter tires and rims to free up some rotational mass.
Who made that aluminum output gear? It's not an Ultramaxx GenIII gear is it? If not, there is no wonder that steel idler chewed it up...if it is, it can only be run with the other Ultramaxx gears (idler and input).
Anyway, the larger the gear, the less stress it receives due to its larger diameter, so the stock nylon output gear will be fine when run with the hardened-steel idler gear and steel input gear, even on high-powered brushless systems.
The ultimate single-speed E-Maxx transmission is one with all aluminum gears that have been titanium nitride (Ti-Ni) coated! The aluminum is more than strong enough, it just can't be run against other aluminum gears, so coating them in Ti-Ni would be perfect, since Ti-Ni is currently the best wearing surface in RC right now.
-Chad › PM ME IF YOU HAVE THE BELOW: › VBS, CVDs, GM Single-Speed, OTB, Ultramaxxed, Super6, Strobe, Sprong, CNR Brake, UE Hex, DUH Towers, Predator, Blackbird, GA Blue Screws, HCR F/R Skids & Mutant
Hey Chad, I dont think you can put that ti-ni coating on aluminum, only steel but I could be wrong. Plus I have never seen one. As far as Ultramaxx gen III gears the idlers are made out of the same bronse alloy that was used in the otb gears input gear. I am almost positive the 1st and second gen Ultramaxx gears had the same issues with wear thats why there is 3 generations, the latest is the greatest and almost impossible too find.