Looking for a buggy project

Sweet! I am thinking of running the same setup in my LSP. When you get the motor and batts, can you tell me how it runs?

Thanks in advance!

Bye:018:

[glassdoctor]

Hmmm... I guess I won't sell you my new-in-package 125B!

Hee hee.... I've been trying to decide if I shoudl keep it and try it or sell it. Maybe I'll still have it here NIP when you get your buggy running... see how it runs.

:)

[BrianG]

@MM: Glassdoctor's (and others) experience with the MM and a Neu motor makes me a little shy with that combo. I was going to get the MM and a 1940/8, but decided to go with a Neu instead. Yeah, it was more money, but cheaper than if I had gotten the MM, been dissatisfied, and then having to go get the 125B anyway.

@cemetary: But of course! :)

@Glassdoctor: Well! I wish I had known about that! Oh well. You've maybe seen the 125B in my Revo so you have an idea how it runs. I've had no problems with it so far, especially after I modded it for cooling.

[jhautz]

Brian,

IMO You made a wise chioce in going with the Quark rather thatn the MM with your Neu motor.

I posted this in another thread somewhere around here, but here is a vid of my test of the MM with a Neu and the MM with a Lehner. The MM ran the 2 pole Lehner bo problem. It ran the Neu, but not well IMO. In the end I actually wound up frying the MM in testing wtih the Neu motor. In its current state the MM is much less than ideal for motors with more than 2 poles. Still waitjing for an update to the MM software to help with this. I wound up replaceing the MM in that buggy with a quark and it runs the Neu motor like a dream now.

The setup you just bought is the exact setup Im running in my revo right now. Love it:027:

Get some pictures posted when you get it together. Isnt it fun to get new toys.:D

[glassdoctor]

So maybe I shoudl open the 125B and install it.... than the next day Castle will release the new software update to make the MM work liek a dream with my Neu.

Kinda like buying a snowblower to make sure it won't snow again till next year.
:)

[Serum]

Yeah, i think they will get an update sooner or later.

Thanks for posting that vid, i am sure it will be handy to show to others..

Now i only need to remember where you put it..

Thanks Jhautz..

I was considering using a Neu with the MM controller, but now i know to get a plettenberg or use my 1950.

[BrianG]

@jhautz: Yeah, your post (along with what I've heard/seen of GlassDoctor's setup) is one of the reasons why I didn't go with the MM/Neu combo. Even though the MM technically works with larger motors, I still feel it should be kept to lighter 1/10th scale vehicles. I was a little skeptical that the smaller 1512 series Neu would be up to the task of powering a buggy while remaining cool during the summer heat, but I think it should be fine from what I've seen here.

Yeah, buying new toys is fun; paying for them isn't. :)

@GD: lol, it's like buying computer parts too. The minute you get whatever part, the next generation offering higher performance is released for the same price. :mad:1 But, it's not like the Quark is not a good controller, just expensive comparatively, and needs (IMO) a mod or two to make it perfect.

[glassdoctor]

The Plettys are 4 pole also aren't they? Rotaryrocket has a MM and Maxximum and he says it works great.

The first time I ran my buggy with the 1512 and MM I don't recall any cogging at all. It seems that the more runs I put on it the more it started cogging. When the weather turns I will try a new MM and see what happens.

Still, I can race my car and usually not have a problem... but I do wonder every time I go from a dead stop if it will cog this time...?

[Mike.L]

that looks awsome brian!

[BrianG]

Well, got all my stuff in!

I wired up a Y balance connector and adding Deans to my 8Ah lipo packs. I then stuck them on my LBA10 so both 2s2p packs get balanced together as a 4s2p pack. Good thing too, one pack had a slightly higher voltage and required several hours on the balancer to equal out.

Then, I installed the 46T spur on the center diff. Thinking it would be a simple swap, I just slapped the plastic spur on there but the gears were binding badly. After reading a few posts here, some people remove all the shims. I really didn't want to do that as they are put there for a reason. So, I made a "gasket" out if some lexan I had laying around from the last body I cut out. It added just enough thickness for the gears not to bind, but still thin enough (at 0.85mm) to keep the sealing o-ring where it needs to be to prevent leaks. I haven't run it yet, so time will tell. Too bad there wasn't a rubber version...

Below are a couple pictures of the gasket:





I'll be doing some metal work this week to get the Quark, RX, and UBEC mounted. Maybe by next weekend, I'll have a functioning buggy!

[sleebus.jones]

Nice work on the spacer. How'd ya cut it out?

Sleebus

[jnev]

Your buggy is looking great and I can't wait to see it finished. Sorry if you have mentioned this, (I dont want to read through 10 pages), but is this going to be a racer or a basher?

Anyways, looks great so far.

[BrianG]

Thanks guys!

@sleebus: With Lexan scissors, then using a dremel sanding wheel for the fine stuff. As you can imagine, it took a while. I'm sure if you look closely, you'll see a couple imperfections. Also, one of the holes is about 1/4mm off center, but since the 3mm holes were drilled with a 1/8" bit, there is enough play to make it work. If this doesn't leak when in use, maybe Mike can make up a rubbery-type batch for non-Kyosho diffs?

@***RC***: It's going to be primarily for racing. And it has to look pretty as well as perform. :)

[glassdoctor]

Guys were removing the gaskets??? Wouldn't that make the gear mesh worse? Hmmm...

Seems that you should add a couple gaskets to get clearance for the gears if they are tight.

I think you might have to sandwich the lexan gasket with the paper gaskets to keep it sealed tight.

So how close is your buggy to being alive???

[Sylvester]

Show some pics of the whole thing! :)