My e-revo brushless edition build - Page 11 - RC-Monster Forums

Jason · 06:07 AM

mistercrash : the trick for diff block dont work with the stock e-revo diff I put the complete diff in a birthday balloon and then put in into the bulkhead and seem more tight then before should work just fine ? ... I cut 3 holes for the diff output ... and checked my diff pinion and ring gear look like brand new and the pinion dont needed to be shimmed and I dont got any move side by side with the diff case too.. but once I opened the diff the seal were the screw goes was broke so the diff leak but not by alot anyways im going to buy a seal and change the diff fluid one day.. and I forget the bearing was all fine ;)

mistercrash · 07.25.2009, 10:30 AM

Quessé t'as fait là toé sti! Mette té diffs dans dé balounes

Pourquoi pas du glaçage à gâteau dans l'diff tant qu'à y être

C't'une joke là

Bin si ça marche çé tant mieux.

Jason · 07.25.2009, 10:35 AM

un plan de neye comme quon dit :)

j'ai défait le diff avant aussi pis lui pas eu besoin de rien toucher il est parfaitement tight cétait seulement lui d'en arriere qui avait un lousse

jpoprock · 07.25.2009, 03:15 PM

Dave... I'm down! I need 4 or more. 4 for sure.

07.25.2009, 09:47 PM

Thanks mistercrash...

Weather isn't looking too good for the race tomorrow.. calling for showers in the morning and afternoon...

stum · 07.25.2009, 10:32 PM

rawfuls · 07.25.2009, 10:34 PM

Dang, that turned out good, I may have to make some out of some rubber tubing from a few bike tubes...

rawfuls · 07.29.2009, 11:29 AM

Sweet stuff!

Have you tried the ejector pins that some people use for hinge pins on the EMaxx?

mistercrash · 07.29.2009, 11:47 AM

I tried tool steel in the past with very good results but that was for on road cars. Never heard of the ejector pin EMaxx hinge pin thingamajigger. I was looking at this also. Might be good for those who like to go to extremes in saving weight.

Titanium 1/8th inch rod

rawfuls · 07.29.2009, 11:50 AM

I picked up on it awhile ago, when I was on the TRX forums (When I first started RC), they don't bend, they snap, which is why some guys used it, because it would snap instead of bending inside the bulkheads and AArms, and instead of pitchin for a new set of AARms and bulkheads, it'd be easy to remove since it snapped into a couple pieces...
I'll try and see if I can't find a link when I get home.

mistercrash · 07.30.2009, 11:34 AM

I received my Polymax 5.5 mm bullet connectors from Hobby City this morning. They are big and nice and without wires on them, you need pliers to pull them apart. I am just wondering about that cut out where you solder the wires. I would have preferred a hole instead of a big cut out like that. To get these connectors undone, it would be necessary to pull on the wires so they have to be soldered correctly with a strong bond. I'm afraid these big cut outs limits the surface area where the wires are soldered onto, making that bond between wire and connector weaker. This is just speculation on my part as I haven't installed them. I looked at all my lipos I just redid with Deans and I don't feel like starting over again

rawfuls · 07.30.2009, 11:39 AM

I was going to pick those 5.5mm as well, let us (Mostly me!

) how they work out, I was going to pick them up and transfer all my bullets from brushed stuff over, and then use them on my harnesses, but I'll need 4mm for my charger and lipos...

Let us know how they work!
And if you recommend them...

jpoprock · 07.30.2009, 12:00 PM

Yeah, I don't like the idea of having to pull on the wires either. But really, there seems to be enuff area to solder to, and if you use good solder, even the smallest amount is SUPER strong. Many of the "pro type applications" with solder use very little. Solder isn't a good conductor of current, so less is better. I was told by an electrician that solders on a factory assembly line, that less is more, and it only takes a small amount to get a good strong bond. But then again, the stuff he's soldering isn't designed to be pulled on all the time either. So I don't know.

I'm thinking about getting some of those Hyperion Bullets. They look pretty nice. It seems that every has an opinion about what connectors are the best. I currently have CC 6.5's, and I guess they are fine. I don't like Deans simply because some of the ones I've used, which could have been knockoffs, are TOO tight. I have to pull on the wire to get them apart. A nice tight fit is great, but that's too tight I think. Is that caused by the casing getting too hot and melting a bit? Or is that the nature of "cheap" knock Deans... or the nature of "real" Deans? As I've said before somewhere... I really like the Traxxas connectors and Power Poles/Sermos. But the Sermos can't handle a ton of current. I beleive the Traxxas high current connectors can. I'd be using these on my ERBE too, but I don't know what to get. I need to get some connectors FAST because my ESC is now on it's way to me from Castle! And I need to get ready!

rawfuls · 07.30.2009, 12:12 PM

I known what you mean jpop, my knockoffs get real hot as well on my BRUSHED KD970s, and that is pulling quite a bit of amps though...

I got me some PowerPoles, just waiting for them to arrive, I've been saying that for a good month or so

, but they're coming!

mistercrash · 07.30.2009, 01:19 PM

So looking at those Polymax bullets, I was thinking of putting the females on the batteries and males for the ESC and parallel harness. I put some heavy duty heat shrink that is 1 mm thick and has hot glue in it. I shrinked a female and male connector and I think it looks good. The heat shrink also comes in red so the connectors would color coded. The beauty of this heat shrink is that it has a high grip rubber feel to it so I can disconnect the bullets with my fingers even without wires on it which solves the problem of disconnecting by yanking on the wires. I'm just tinkering with them because I still don't feel like redoing all my connections