Muggy diffs in a maxx

Ooohh, my gosh!!!!!!It, it, it is beautiful... I have tears in my eyes. I'm going to sell everything to build something like that

wow thats crazy. nice build dude. its kinda making me want to do something like this to my revo lol.

[aqwut]

Looks great bro....!!

[its me]

Thanks guys! and I got a really good question for you...LOL


How in the hell do I wire this thing together..yes I know ima noob LOL

Do I need a Ubec and how many LVC do i need?? one for each batt?

[suicideneil]

No UBEC or LVCs required, they are built into the escs. All you need to do is use a Y-splitter to join both escs to the receiver (throttle channel). Only important thing to remember is that both escs need to be pregrammed exactly the same, to prevent the motors fighting eachother as they spin. This should help:





I would also suggest using that parallel battery harness to ensure both batteries discharge evenly, and hit LVC together- you dont want one motor to stop working, as the tall gearing will quickly overload the other motor if it has to do all the work itself. Wait until the V-twin guys see this truck, they will soil themselves...

[JERRY2KONE]

Great info Neil, and itsme that truck is really turning out to be a kind of ICON of sorts. That layout is one of the nicest looking builds that we have seen. Very symetrical and clean. I like that harness for the twin ESC power. Since we know you will do it I am interested in seeing how it works out for you. With that much torque and raw power you should have no problem stomping the nitros, but actually handling that much power will be a real challenge. Just like the twin Big Maxximum build the drivetrain is going to undergo a tremendous amount of strain. If you have any weak points you will deffinitely get to see what they are. Good luck and keep up the good work.

[its me]

Originally Posted by suicideneil

No UBEC or LVCs required, they are built into the escs. All you need to do is use a Y-splitter to join both escs to the receiver (throttle channel). Only important thing to remember is that both escs need to be pregrammed exactly the same, to prevent the motors fighting eachother as they spin. This should help:





I would also suggest using that parallel battery harness to ensure both batteries discharge evenly, and hit LVC together- you dont want one motor to stop working, as the tall gearing will quickly overload the other motor if it has to do all the work itself. Wait until the V-twin guys see this truck, they will soil themselves...

Again thank you man!! After I get the ano done I will definetly get some video :)

Originally Posted by JERRY2KONE

Great info Neil, and itsme that truck is really turning out to be a kind of ICON of sorts. That layout is one of the nicest looking builds that we have seen. Very symetrical and clean. I like that harness for the twin ESC power. Since we know you will do it I am interested in seeing how it works out for you. With that much torque and raw power you should have no problem stomping the nitros, but actually handling that much power will be a real challenge. Just like the twin Big Maxximum build the drivetrain is going to undergo a tremendous amount of strain. If you have any weak points you will deffinitely get to see what they are. Good luck and keep up the good work.

Thanks man and the drive train is also something ive been wondering about, hopefully phatlines and throttle control will help some of that. Im excited to see this thing go :)

[its me]

I have one of my flight powers with the red wire and black wire on opposite sides, question is can I remove the clear heat shrink so I can move the black wire to the same side as the red or will I damage something?!?!?!

[jordan...]

This build is sooo awesome, i love the pics with both the MMM's mounted, such a clean install!! Sorry im not much help with the battery Q, just thought id chime in

jordan

[JERRY2KONE]

No you will not hurt anything as long as you do not cut into the aluminum casing of the Lipo pack itself. The shrink wrap is nothing more than a nice way to keep everything looking good and in a neat package. If you are worried about damaging the casing for warrenty purposes then get another piece of shrink wrap and replace it exactly as it is now once you have moved the wires the way you need them. No worries mate.

[its me]

Originally Posted by jordan...

This build is sooo awesome, i love the pics with both the MMM's mounted, such a clean install!! Sorry im not much help with the battery Q, just thought id chime in

jordan

LOL thank man!

Originally Posted by JERRY2KONE

No you will not hurt anything as long as you do not cut into the aluminum casing of the Lipo pack itself. The shrink wrap is nothing more than a nice way to keep everything looking good and in a neat package. If you are worried about damaging the casing for warrenty purposes then get another piece of shrink wrap and replace it exactly as it is now once you have moved the wires the way you need them. No worries mate.

Thank you sir, just wanted to check figure I ask before I do LOL dont want to mess them up, reason I asked is a read some post from brianG about lipo wire length.

[JERRY2KONE]

Ok I just received a set of hybrid bulks from RCM and I also purchased a set of Hot Bodies Diffs with hardened steel gears to go in them. I got the 10 tooth helical pinion to go with the setup and man is it beefy. I never knew that they were so heavy duty. I am truly glad that I decided to put this setup together and use it in one of my trucks just to try it out. Now I am sure that I will be purchasing more to convert my other builds. Anyway my question is this. I have everything I need to put these hybrid diffs together except for the pinion gear bearings. What is the size of those bearings and are they listed anywhere? Also is there an aluminum diff cup out there to fit these HB diffs? Any info or links would be grately appreciated. Thanks guys.

Those should be std brg 8x16x5mm, I used Ofna diff kits to build my hybrids with and those were what it took. Any brg place will have them, I used the Avid Revolutions in them.

http://www.avidrc.com/shop/?action=i...=1&prevstart=0

[suicideneil]

Im sure that there are alloy diff cups for those diffs, I've seen a couple people disuss them before but Im buggered if I can remember where...

[jordan...]

The only company i could find that makes Al cups for the HB diffs is Nova RC, so not too sure if you want to get them. Someone also said that a Savage diff cup from Maximizer would fit if shimmed correctly. Check out my centre diff thread: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11190