I raced mine again last night with the 2200 mamba in it and it is pulling
270ma a min any ideas on another motor that will improve my run times that I don't have to turn all of the settings way down to run?
I am trying for 20 min on a 5000mah battery
Probably a 1600kv Medusa 70mm, or the 1550kv Tekin. I'm going to try the 1700kv Tekin tonight, but the smallest pinion I can fit comfortably is a 16 tooth. I'm also going to find out if the Xray XB808 42 tooth spur will fit.
I raced mine again last night with the 2200 mamba in it and it is pulling
270ma a min any ideas on another motor that will improve my run times that I don't have to turn all of the settings way down to run?
I am trying for 20 min on a 5000mah battery
Not really. The only way to get more run time from the motor would be to:
Increase Efficieny (not easy as the Castle Motors are basically Neus)
Decrease kV (and therefore speed)
Go for a slightly smaller motor (but not too small, as it might not be man enough, and will cause heat buildup, and therefore decreased efficiency)
Only thing is, none of these is likely to be enough. According to your readings (270mAh per minute) a 5000mAh pack will get you 18 minutes and 30 seconds. That's assuming that the pack drains completely to 0mAh, which it won't.
I would go with some of the measures above, and a slightly larger battery (like a 5300mAh).
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This has made a lot of people very angry and has been widely regarded as a bad move.
I was hoping they had aluminum caps. My plastic ones are already showing a lot of where from a few flips on the street. Wish I had seen those before I order some more plastic ones.
I also broke a front upper and lower arm at the track today. Of course I launched funky off a small double and smacked a 4x4 piece of wood on pit lane. The arm did split down the middle right at the pins, but honestly any buggy arm would have broke the way I hit. I also broke the front chassis "brace" part number ofn29302, but again another freak thing. I was using a t-bone racing front skidplate/bumper, it caught the dirt on a bad landing and snapped and downflexxed the chassis enough to break this part, screwed my steering geometry up and was really hard to finish the race, but I finished third.
So far I have ordered enough parts to keep me rolling and I love this buggy.
had an issue with the set screw that holds part 29315 ( a little block that the center diff rear cup slides over), it was pretty stripped from the factory and I can't get it out. I'll be sending in that portion of the car after the race this sunday to see what ofna can do. Other than this, a leaky rear diff (had a similar issue with my RC8FT when new, maybe pressure change with shipping?), and the fact that whoever did the threadlocking looked like they spilled it on the front of the car it went apart and back together nicely. I like how easily the shocks assembled, and they are huge.
I went with the stock mounting location for my electronics. I removed the big outer casing that the speed passion ESC uses to get a better fit on the ESC mount plate. Here are some pics I took with electronics mounted. Rear pic showing the answerrc toe-in plate. just need to finish up the beater body. :
So by the sounds of it, this buggy is doing pretty well other than the weak front a-arms. Would a truggy motor fit in? Or is it too long? Is the battery tray pretty secure and strong? Is it made out of plastic?
the battery tray appears to be quite sturdy. Only thing to watch for is if you use long packs, the wires may bunch on the tray as its higher up than other trays.