My e-revo brushless edition build

[rawfuls]

I'd go with PowerPoles, Linc loves em, Brian (Kulang) loves them, and me, I tried em out with a couple plastics themselves, without any wires connected, and I love them.

If you're worried about them coming apart, you can pick a couple powerpole retainers, which will keep them from parting.

PowerPoles 45A are possibly the ones you want, if you're worried about the amperage, Kulang uses em on his high amp stuff, as well as Linc, and they both say that they never get above ambient temp.

[shaunjohnson]

well after yesterday's race meet...
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22646
yeah well...
after that my mate raced that summit and looking at my shagged buggy...it really puts my revo suspension to shame, it was so bindy.
so i overhauled the entire rear end and put some softer springs on so it isnt so bouncy.
it has trx sway bars on the rear and i think they are the main cause of the binding. even though they make no contact with anything that they shouldent touch.
any tips of making my suspension silky smooth like a brand new revo? (apart from obvious methods like shock rebuilds and hinge pin polish)
shaun

Shaun.. it may sound stupid, but I would simply dissect the suspension piece by piece and see where the hang-ups are.. Start with the shocks.. remove them and move them through their range of motion.. make sure they are smooth and linear. Then move to the rocker arms. remove the suspension push rod and move the rockers through their range of motion.. Aagin, feel for anything binding or hanging up and address. Next, move each wheel through it's range of motion.. You are now only really looking for a bent pin or something similar.. Again, address as required... Finally, turn the front steering knuckles, and check as well.

If it were mine, I'd strip it naked and clean the daylights out of everything.. never hurts as good maintenance...

If it's binding, then 'something' isn't working right.. could be almost anything...

There was an interesting story in one of the RC car mags this month.. it had to do with ensuring full range of steering and lack of binding through the entire range of motion of the suspension, not just ride height.. So turn everything your can at all the extreme's of suspension travel...

[shaunjohnson]

no it's not stupid
but i did all that...it just dosent seem to be as smooth as a brand new one...
although it is a ton better now that ive done all of that...i put 80wt in the rear shocks and put in some softer springs (did have some pretty heavy ones in there, now have grey band)

also serviced the wheel BB's cause they were full of crap

[jpoprock]

I sounded mad? Sorry about that! I wasn't mad at all. Just goes to show how sometimes text can be totally misinterpreted! I'm never "mad" really!

No, I had remembered once when removing my shocks from my ERBE, that one of the long screws that screw down thru the top of the mount, never seemed to "bite" and come to a noticable stop. I had forgotten that I simply changed to a longer screw! So, when I posted that, I had forgotten that I did that, wondered if the pivot of a rear end lid slap might pull the mount from the chassis, but yer right, that's not going to happen.

Good call on the pivot ball popping out or the shaft snapping.

My frustration in finding the right length shaft was true though. I could have swore that i had some P2 Pushrods, but these aren't I guess. I thought I had them with me today, but they must be at home or else I'd look to see what mm is printed on them. That's why I was asking for the length, so I didn't have to go to Traxxas to look up what length the P2 rods are. But I will do that, so no need to worry about it.

Thanks!

[Bondonutz]

Originally Posted by jpoprock

My frustration in finding the right length shaft

[rawfuls]

Originally Posted by Bondonutz

HAHAHAAHAHAH

You would do that!

[mistercrash]

I received the rest of my 5.5 bullets today. I should find the courage to start soldering very soon. I put an OFNA rear wing on the ERBE because the Traxxas wing on my nitro Revo was broken so I needed another wing. The LHS had both the OFNA and TRAXXAS wings in stock so I went with the OFNA one because it just seems stronger. I put it on the ERBE and put the ERBE's TRAXXAS wing on the nitro Revo. I had a puffed Zippy in my battery box, it just puffed sitting there with the other lipos. I don't know what happened to it but both cells were badly puffed. So I unsoldered the connectors which I will keep and put the cells in the middle of the driveway and punctured both of them very hard with the tip of a long crowbar
There was some fizz with tiny sparks in the hole and a little smoke for 1 minute or two, then came the big puff of smoke, and I mean a lot of smoke and a lot of fizzing for about 20 seconds. But no flames at all. Then down to a little smoke and soft fizzing for 5 minutes and then nothing. I let it sit there for another hour to cool down and tossed the cells in the trash once I inspected the cells to make sure that they were all consumed. I should've made a vid. It was a cool experiment.

[Kevlar]

I dabbled in bracing and haven't broken a rear upper assembly since, but did learn how to drive more gooder, and this is what I was doin':



I did have quite a few crashes with this setup, and the worst thing that happend was it popped out of the hole I drilled in the vent, and have had to drill another hole and lost a few screws, but better than replacing the whole mount!!! I used the stock push rods...


.......I love your build threads mistercrash....my revo wouldn't be what it is without your insight!

Here is another brace idea I ran across. I may try this way on mine. This with the combination of the single brace on the front side I believe would be indestructible. Maybe even a little overkill. lol

[suicideneil]

http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi...&part_id=10137

Not entirely sure how or where it fits though, but it looks nice

[mistercrash]

It looks really nice but like you said, where does it go? It looks really super duper uber heavy duty.

Remember what I did to my Racers Edge servo horn in post #20, well my ACE 1015 servo couldn't take it for very long. The Racers Edge horn is 3/4'' long and the mod I did made it 1'' long. The extra throw was nice and made the steering very fast as the servo didn't have to move as much to lock the wheels left to right but the extra leverage this long horn put on the gears was too much for my ACE. The same thing happened on my nitro Revo that had the same set up. So after replacing the gears in both servos, I went back to the stock length of 3/4'' that the Racers Edge horns had originally and this should fix the problem. The steering is a little slower but fast enough to satisfy me. More high end servos may have stronger gears that can withstand the extra leverage that a 1'' horn puts on the gears so I think it is still a good mod but you gotta have the servo to go with it.

Yep... Lipo pops always make for good video.. shoulda hollered!

[shaunjohnson]

i cant make lipo's go bang!!!
lets see....never had a genuine failure yet, both failures caused my ME and the rest were on purpose.
the maxamps cell i tryed to blow up...well....
dead short.....nothing
gave a single cell 12V and pumped it with 100 amps from a car batt...nothing
nailed it...nothing
hosed it..nothing
douced in some nitro and set it on fire....nothing!!!!

the ones that did fail were caused by gravel rash under heavy load, that one caught fire so i ripped off the top cell (while on fire) and tossed it away, saved the pack and now it's a 4s.

the other one was left plugged into the MMM so when the MMM died it took out the lipo too....no fire luckily cause it was in my car

Shaun.. You can't force current from a car battery.. It's a constant voltage source..

If you want to 'help' a LiPo pop, find a bug battery charger and set a 10A charge rate and hook that up to the battery... that should be more entertaining.. My guess, without trying, is that it should see 20+ volts...

You could also plug it into the wall...