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dtnel
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08.14.2011, 04:01 PM

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Originally Posted by cmac View Post
Thanks, I see. Are you going to use UE arms too? I think there is just more material on the outer parts of the upper A-Arms, and that's why the pins are not long enough. The bottom pins are perfect. I think the UE ti-pins will do the trick, and I will be able to use the Fast lane uppers on my original E-Maxx. Thanks dtnel.
I have the rpm true track on my old one that'll get converted over and the fronts will get swapped to rpm as well. I think when I'm done I'll be able to still have a 3rd emaxx (3905 spec) from all the extra parts since I have a complete motor setup as well. I have some decisions to make because I have 3 3906 trucks as well. I want one for water, one for a 3 axle project, one for a "pretty" truck, one for a basher.

I don't race so it looks like 2 of the oldest 3906 trucks will go or get parted out. I don't even think they'll bring much for parts on ebay unless someone is into restoring them as show trucks or something.
   
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cmac
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08.14.2011, 03:08 PM

I'm using RC screws as well.

Last edited by cmac; 08.14.2011 at 03:14 PM.
   
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cmac
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08.14.2011, 03:39 PM

Has anyone used one of these before?
http://cgi.ebay.com/US-RETAILER-Leop...item3f03c94b5c
what do you think? I like the fact that it is 4 pole.
   
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cmac
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08.15.2011, 07:52 PM

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Originally Posted by cmac View Post
Has anyone used one of these before?
http://cgi.ebay.com/US-RETAILER-Leop...item3f03c94b5c
what do you think? I like the fact that it is 4 pole.
Guys I need feedback I'm so close to pulling the trigger on this motor. I found out the can is 74mm long. The KV rating is almost the same as my current 1515, but it is 4 pole. The price is perfect. Let me know.

Last edited by cmac; 08.15.2011 at 09:22 PM.
   
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suicideneil
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08.15.2011, 10:11 PM

Based on the review that Jang @ URC did a little while back, the Leopard ( and Tacon ) motor has similar power to the castle 2200kv motor, similar temps, but a bit less torque in the mid-range. If you are just bashing and not hammering it like a loony, then it should be fine I imagine, no great loss if it isn't given the price. I would favour a slightly larger motor though myself given how heavy your truck will end up:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Leopard-4082-bru...item2566599dfb 4082 2200kv $110

http://cgi.ebay.com/Leopard-4282-200...item3a685f55cc 4282 2000kv $110

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Leopard-LB-4...item3cba982956 4274 2000kv $90

http://cgi.ebay.com/Sale-RC-Leopard-...item415bf568ed 4274 2000kv $84

just type in 'leopard motor' and search though them all ( price high to low )- there are loads of places selling the same and similar Leopards, larger too, for the same or less money. They will all be covered by paypal so no worries about getting screwed over.

Also, what cell count / voltage are you planning on running? It might pay to go for a lower kv motor, like 1600-1800kv for 5-6s lipo, unless you plan on doing speed runs or lots of high speed on-road driving..

Last edited by suicideneil; 08.15.2011 at 10:12 PM.
   
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cmac
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08.16.2011, 12:20 AM

Thanks for talking me down. I guess I will see how the truck drives with the 1515 for now. If the temps are OK then I will stick with that motor. I might get the 4074 for my original E-maxx just to see what it's like. then I can have two working trucks. Any suggestions for an ESC to go with the Leopard motor? To answer your question about the types of batteries I will use. I'm going with 6s/22.2.v lipos (2x's3s/11.1v). I would like to drive this in all kinds of terrain. Bashing, on road speed runs. I basically want it to do a little bit of everything.

Last edited by cmac; 08.16.2011 at 12:30 AM.
   
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suicideneil
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08.16.2011, 10:29 AM

If you've already got the 1515 then thats pretty much the ideal one to use, I wouldn't swap it out for a lesser quality copy essentially. Should be plenty of power on 6s, just vary the gearing a bit for offroad & speedruns etc.
   
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cmac
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08.16.2011, 10:35 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by suicideneil View Post
If you've already got the 1515 then thats pretty much the ideal one to use, I wouldn't swap it out for a lesser quality copy essentially. Should be plenty of power on 6s, just vary the gearing a bit for offroad & speedruns etc.
I was just worried with the 1515 being a two pole motor. I read elswhere in the forum that the 1515 might not hold up as well as a 4 pole motor.
   
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brian015
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08.16.2011, 11:40 AM

1515 is 4 pole.
   
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cmac
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08.16.2011, 01:18 PM

Thanks Brian, for clearing that up. I could not find out if it was 2 or 4 pole on the web site. One of the threads on this sight made it seem that it was a 2 pole. Well that makes me feel better.
   
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cmac
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08.17.2011, 06:50 PM

Great news the UE hinge pins were the right size. I think I read somewhere that the standard hinge pins for the E/T-maxx are 3mm shorter than the UE pins. Good news is that I got a bunch of them so I won't run out for a while. Now I have a question about diff oil. I have been told a bunch of conflicting things. First off this is not a racing truck. I was set to have 7,000 wt in the front; 10,000 in the center diff; and 5,000 in the rear. Is this OK? I want this thing to do wheelies at will. I think I read somewhere that I might need 20,000 wt. in the center slipper if I want it to do wheelies. What do you guys think?
   
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suicideneil
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08.18.2011, 01:23 PM

7K / 5K sounds fine, I run the same, not sure about the center really- it will need to be fairly heavy to stop the power just being sent to the front wheels when you nail the throttle- might pay to get something much thicker just in case- you can always mix the oils to make something lighter..
   
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cmac
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08.18.2011, 03:40 PM

So do you think 20,000 wt is a good place to start?
   
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cmac
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08.19.2011, 12:45 AM

Well, I just got the radio that's going to keep this truck in control. I Just got a Futaba 4PKS and it is just awesome!!!!!! I cannot begin to tell you what a nice radio this is. I just sold my last radio the Futaba 4PL, and that was a great radio, but the 4PKS just takes the level of quality up several notches it just feels solid. You can tell right when you pick it up. The way the trigger feels, the tension of wheel it's just a great radio. One other thing in addition to the center diff oil question above, what weight shock oil do you guys think I should use? I know this truck is going to be heavy. I am using the new Proline powerstroke shocks (8 of them). They were great in my original Emaxx and, I have 40 wt in there now. Do you think I need to go to a heavier wt?
   
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cmac
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08.21.2011, 12:38 PM

OK. I just read another thread and some of the guys are running 100k, 300k, and even 500k diff oil in their slipper. They were trying to have it do wheelies at will also. I just bought 20k oil and I don't think i will use that. I bought 100k and 300k diff oil from A-Main, and I think I will start with the 300k and go from there. I also got a few opinions from one of my local hobby shops and (going back to one of the first few pages in this thread) I felt front diff gear mesh was not smooth enough, so I have a few pinions coming and hopefully one of them will be smoother. I have tried to shim it side to side and front to back and can't get it better. One other thing that the owner of the shop pointed out was that the hybrid bulks are not perfectly sealed. the seam down the middle has small "gaps" or "holes". First thought on that is to sand them flat on the bench grinder. Or do you think I could just seal them with clear silicone? they really are very small. I'm afraid that I might not get them perfectly flat and ruin them. Any feed back would be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by cmac; 08.21.2011 at 12:41 PM.
   
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