My e-revo brushless edition build

[stum]

[rawfuls]

Dang, that turned out good, I may have to make some out of some rubber tubing from a few bike tubes...

[mistercrash]

Originally Posted by mistercrash

The wires I have were available at my LHS in the airplane section. But I found this also. I ordered a pack of ten 18'' rods to try out.

http://www.smallparts.com/Music-Wire...AF&pf_rd_t=301

Smallparts.com was fast in shipping the wires to me here in Ontario, Canada. I got them yesterday and what they sent me is better than what I was getting at the LHS. The wires are stiffer and are springier than what I was using before. So I went ahead and made a front sway bar right away and installed it.



Update on the battery doors. They are awsome, I am absolutely confident that the doors will not open up while running anymore.

[rawfuls]

Sweet stuff!

Have you tried the ejector pins that some people use for hinge pins on the EMaxx?

[mistercrash]

I tried tool steel in the past with very good results but that was for on road cars. Never heard of the ejector pin EMaxx hinge pin thingamajigger. I was looking at this also. Might be good for those who like to go to extremes in saving weight.

Titanium 1/8th inch rod

[rawfuls]

I picked up on it awhile ago, when I was on the TRX forums (When I first started RC), they don't bend, they snap, which is why some guys used it, because it would snap instead of bending inside the bulkheads and AArms, and instead of pitchin for a new set of AARms and bulkheads, it'd be easy to remove since it snapped into a couple pieces...
I'll try and see if I can't find a link when I get home.

[mistercrash]

I received my Polymax 5.5 mm bullet connectors from Hobby City this morning. They are big and nice and without wires on them, you need pliers to pull them apart. I am just wondering about that cut out where you solder the wires. I would have preferred a hole instead of a big cut out like that. To get these connectors undone, it would be necessary to pull on the wires so they have to be soldered correctly with a strong bond. I'm afraid these big cut outs limits the surface area where the wires are soldered onto, making that bond between wire and connector weaker. This is just speculation on my part as I haven't installed them. I looked at all my lipos I just redid with Deans and I don't feel like starting over again

[rawfuls]

I was going to pick those 5.5mm as well, let us (Mostly me!) how they work out, I was going to pick them up and transfer all my bullets from brushed stuff over, and then use them on my harnesses, but I'll need 4mm for my charger and lipos...

Let us know how they work!
And if you recommend them...

[jpoprock]

Yeah, I don't like the idea of having to pull on the wires either. But really, there seems to be enuff area to solder to, and if you use good solder, even the smallest amount is SUPER strong. Many of the "pro type applications" with solder use very little. Solder isn't a good conductor of current, so less is better. I was told by an electrician that solders on a factory assembly line, that less is more, and it only takes a small amount to get a good strong bond. But then again, the stuff he's soldering isn't designed to be pulled on all the time either. So I don't know.

I'm thinking about getting some of those Hyperion Bullets. They look pretty nice. It seems that every has an opinion about what connectors are the best. I currently have CC 6.5's, and I guess they are fine. I don't like Deans simply because some of the ones I've used, which could have been knockoffs, are TOO tight. I have to pull on the wire to get them apart. A nice tight fit is great, but that's too tight I think. Is that caused by the casing getting too hot and melting a bit? Or is that the nature of "cheap" knock Deans... or the nature of "real" Deans? As I've said before somewhere... I really like the Traxxas connectors and Power Poles/Sermos. But the Sermos can't handle a ton of current. I beleive the Traxxas high current connectors can. I'd be using these on my ERBE too, but I don't know what to get. I need to get some connectors FAST because my ESC is now on it's way to me from Castle! And I need to get ready!

[rawfuls]

I known what you mean jpop, my knockoffs get real hot as well on my BRUSHED KD970s, and that is pulling quite a bit of amps though...

I got me some PowerPoles, just waiting for them to arrive, I've been saying that for a good month or so , but they're coming!

[mistercrash]

So looking at those Polymax bullets, I was thinking of putting the females on the batteries and males for the ESC and parallel harness. I put some heavy duty heat shrink that is 1 mm thick and has hot glue in it. I shrinked a female and male connector and I think it looks good. The heat shrink also comes in red so the connectors would color coded. The beauty of this heat shrink is that it has a high grip rubber feel to it so I can disconnect the bullets with my fingers even without wires on it which solves the problem of disconnecting by yanking on the wires. I'm just tinkering with them because I still don't feel like redoing all my connections

[rawfuls]

I'm guessing the heatshrink you have isn't included? Is it from HobbyCity?

Get to soldering already! :D

[mistercrash]

The heat shrink didn't come from HC, I always get it from that little electronics supply store near my home. I will get a company name and SKU number and try to find other distributors. Maybe HC has shrink similar to this. I am also thinking about something to keep the two battery wires separate. I gotta go to work, tomorrow is the big preparation for next week since we're off to an Hawaiian cruise. Be back on the 10th of August and will probably get to work on these.

Aloha!

[rawfuls]

How dare you go to Hawaii without giving us a hour written review!

Have fun man over there in Hawaii.... I heard the weinerdog advertising car is banned from there

Pretty funny, let us know about those 5.5mm bullets, I could use some!

And no worries about the heat shrink, I've got some, was just a bit interested since you said that had a rubbery grip, but, I could just double shrink mine, and then put electrical tape, which mine is a bit grippy....

Canadian Tire has heat shrink with adhesive in it, but I don't know if the wall is as thick as whay Mistercrash described.

When it comes to making any solder connection, the proper method is to ensure a reliable physical connection, then solder the connection to seal it against corrosion, etc. Solder is VERY soft.. it used to be 63% lead and 37% tin - both soft metals.

rawfuls - one of the reasons the heatshrink he is using works so well is because of the adhesive - it is likely sticking to the metal suface. Regular heat shrink will likely slip if indeed these suckers hold as toghtly as they can.

With respect to the connectors that are heating up - that's a HUGE sign of a poor connection.. I am working on a spreadsheet right now that will convert between Watts and temperature.. Anyways, if they are hot, it's bad...