My e-revo brushless edition build

[rawfuls]

So should we hotglue the heatshrink to the connection? Isn't hotglue a very bad conductor, if it even is 1% of a conductor?

Good quality hot glue would work great. Give the connectors a light scuff with 320 grit before you assemble, just so the glue has something to stick to. Make sure the connectors are free of grease and dirt.. Maybe a wipe with alcohol or similar residue free product.

I stress our a lot about high-current electrical connections... ;-)

[rawfuls]

Figured so.......

But, HotGlue would end up being too hot for the heatshrink, wouldn't it?

[mistercrash]

So here's one way of making some sort of connector for the battery with the two poles separated. A piece of a larger heat shrink with glue inside that I pinched in the middle before I heated it with the heat gun. Once it cooled down, the middle is glued together and keeps the two sides separated. To answer how well this heat shrink with glue in it sticks to stuff, well it sticks really well. It is very hard to take off and you actually have to rip it off bit by bit by completely destroying it.

[rawfuls]

I've always thought about that as well, but making it male then female next to each other would be better wouldn't it?

I wouldn't worry about the hot glue damaging the heat shrink, it can take some serious heat... Provided it's of reasonable quality.

The idea of the battery connector having both female sockets is to help reduce the chance of the terminals ever shorting out. I would do it the same way.. But, your logic about using the pins in alternating gender does ensure you would never connect them
backwards...

[rawfuls]

And have a nice flaming ball in your hand, that's always neat..

Yeah.. given the current capabilities of most Lipo's... that would be neat to see!

Did I mention I have 'issues' as well as obsessions?

[jpoprock]

So, the bottom line for me is... I need some connectors. I had CC 6.5 Bullets that were fine. But I need to choose a "standard" for myself, and go with it. Since my last MMM caught fire, they are sending me a new one, which should arrive any day now. I need to make up some new leads, etc... and need to decide on a connector. Deans will work I gather. I'm running 6s, so it's high current. I also gather that Traxxas High Current connectors will work too, which I like. Castle bullets are fine, as well as the EC3, or is it EC5? I saw at aMainHobbies, that ProTek makes Traxxas and Deans knock off's, but can they handle that kind of current? I run only Lipo and Brushless. I just can't decide! And I don't want to spend hours hotgluing, etc making up good connectors.

On my ERBE, the male and female are reversed, so there is never a question of hooking them up wrong. But occasionally after big jump, the wire will yank itself from the other, coming unhooked. So... what to do? I need to decide FAST.

j

I wish you had a couple months to wait so I could do an actual connector comparison.. I have a good feeling about the big bullets that mistercrash chose. O think my second choice (purely based on surface area) would be the EC5 - which are basically the same ( I think?).

Things to consider when choosing any electrical connector... Contact surface area, connection pressure and safety (reverse polarity protection).

[rawfuls]

I'd go with PowerPoles, Linc loves em, Brian (Kulang) loves them, and me, I tried em out with a couple plastics themselves, without any wires connected, and I love them.

If you're worried about them coming apart, you can pick a couple powerpole retainers, which will keep them from parting.

PowerPoles 45A are possibly the ones you want, if you're worried about the amperage, Kulang uses em on his high amp stuff, as well as Linc, and they both say that they never get above ambient temp.

[mistercrash]

Originally Posted by jpoprock

I don't want to spend hours hotgluing, etc making up good connectors.

You don't spend hours if you have heat shrink that has the glue already inside it, when you shrink it, the glue melts.

[shaunjohnson]

well after yesterday's race meet...
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22646
yeah well...
after that my mate raced that summit and looking at my shagged buggy...it really puts my revo suspension to shame, it was so bindy.
so i overhauled the entire rear end and put some softer springs on so it isnt so bouncy.
it has trx sway bars on the rear and i think they are the main cause of the binding. even though they make no contact with anything that they shouldent touch.
any tips of making my suspension silky smooth like a brand new revo? (apart from obvious methods like shock rebuilds and hinge pin polish)
shaun

Shaun.. it may sound stupid, but I would simply dissect the suspension piece by piece and see where the hang-ups are.. Start with the shocks.. remove them and move them through their range of motion.. make sure they are smooth and linear. Then move to the rocker arms. remove the suspension push rod and move the rockers through their range of motion.. Aagin, feel for anything binding or hanging up and address. Next, move each wheel through it's range of motion.. You are now only really looking for a bent pin or something similar.. Again, address as required... Finally, turn the front steering knuckles, and check as well.

If it were mine, I'd strip it naked and clean the daylights out of everything.. never hurts as good maintenance...

If it's binding, then 'something' isn't working right.. could be almost anything...

There was an interesting story in one of the RC car mags this month.. it had to do with ensuring full range of steering and lack of binding through the entire range of motion of the suspension, not just ride height.. So turn everything your can at all the extreme's of suspension travel...

[shaunjohnson]

no it's not stupid
but i did all that...it just dosent seem to be as smooth as a brand new one...
although it is a ton better now that ive done all of that...i put 80wt in the rear shocks and put in some softer springs (did have some pretty heavy ones in there, now have grey band)

also serviced the wheel BB's cause they were full of crap