My e-revo brushless edition build

If your just bored you could put some heat shrink tubing on the female side of the motor connectors on the esc. Anything metallic gets up in there and hits two of those motor connectors and poof! goes the esc. I think that could be one of the reasons some MMM's mysteriously die.

[mistercrash]

Thanks for the project that will occupy 10 minutes of my time But seriously, really? I never thought about those female connectors sticking out of the ESC. Can they really be shorted out when batteries are plugged in? If yes then I will certainly put heat shrink on them.

Im not sure on the motor wires but that is why that got rid of them on the battery side. The female ends were bending in and touching the heatsink and shorting it out. Thats why the went to the battery wires straight to the board.

Id go with the Losi buggy next. I love mine handles so great.

[mistercrash]

Yes that Losi buggy is very tempting. Well even if there's no confirmation on the possible shorting of the motor leads, I had to open the ESC to clean the inside and check the fan anyway so I went ahead and shrinked them. I also have a used MMM system as a spare so I wanted to see how difficult it was to open the motor to check the bearings. I had a little trouble getting the end caps off the motor and they got tiny marks on they from the process but I got them off. And yes, one of the bearings needs to be changed. I took the opportunity to change something to the front end cap, I drilled and tapped the mounting holes to 4X0.7 mm threads. Then I drilled the holes of a spare motor mount to 4 mm and counter sunk them to accept M4X10 mm flat head screws. I had that motor come loose on me once but I was lucky as no damage was caused but it could have been worse. M4 screws will hold the motor a lot more securely to the motor mount IMO. I saw someone else do this and I thought I'd give it a try.

I'll ad pics later today.

[mistercrash]

Here's the pics, first the shrink on the motor tabs. I know they're blue, they match the boots on the shafts.



And the M4 screws for the motor to attach it to the motor mount.

[mistercrash]

A neat little thing I did to help keep the ball ends of the turnbuckles and pushrods from popping off the steel ball. I used two pieces of fuel tubing of the right length on the turnbuckles and o rings of the right size for the pushrods. It really helps.

[rawfuls]

Wow, I would've never thought of that! I'm having major ball popping off issues with this on my ESavage, I'll try this!
Thanks.

[Bondonutz]

Originally Posted by rawfuls

I'm having major ball popping off issues

Easy Tiger.

[ticklechicken]

Just when I thought you had done it all, here comes another great idea. Please keep them coming.

[Chadworkz]

mistercrash is the man! He has more tips, tricks, mods and stuff than anyone I know, and he does everything so well!

[jpoprock]

Between your balls and my rod length problems, we might as well buy dresses!

[Bondonutz]

That paints a real ugly mental picture

[stum]

If I could point out two things..

#1 if it's loose enough to come off you want to swap out the end anyway and this will only hide a problem and may lead to control issues that take longer to realize.

#2 if you swap to the RPM true tracks not only do you get a perfect toe in you don't have rear turnbuckles or any of the hassle that comes w/ them; minus the weight as well.

Just my 2c

I do a no pop mod on my 8ight truggy/buggy steering turnbuckles, which is very common racing, but nothing supporting around the plastic ends. I want to know when the ends get loose so I can replace and keep the control and accuracy.

[mistercrash]

Originally Posted by stum

If I could point out two things..

#1 if it's loose enough to come off you want to swap out the end anyway and this will only hide a problem and may lead to control issues that take longer to realize.

#2 if you swap to the RPM true tracks not only do you get a perfect toe in you don't have rear turnbuckles or any of the hassle that comes w/ them; minus the weight as well.

Just my 2c

I do a no pop mod on my 8ight truggy/buggy steering turnbuckles, which is very common racing, but nothing supporting around the plastic ends. I want to know when the ends get loose so I can replace and keep the control and accuracy.

#1 - Once they are loose enough to pop off, I swap them out. This is not something to try to make them last forever. Just something to make them stay in place an not pop off during a race. I had brand new ones pop off after two qualifiers for some reason and this helps keep them in their place until the race day is over. I still check them often for excessive wear and change them when needed.

#2 - I don't like RPM plastic, the arms seem to break less because the plastic is soft. I don't like how flexy they are. I don't like that they don't make them in an extended version like the Traxxas ones. Finally, I don't like e-clips.

Don't ask why, I'm just weird that way.

[shaunjohnson]

the threaded inserts was early on in the build i think.
you have to get some du-bro threaded inserts from tower hobbies and matching imperial screws.
so it is best to convert the whole truck to imperial screws and then change over your wrenches.
shaun