LOSI LST XXL Conversion ideas

[mistercrash]

Made a turnbuckle for the Muggy bellcranks. I used a Traxxas Revo turnbukle with Traxxas large ball cups. I had to cut the turnbuckle to the right length so I kept the end with the left handed threads and threaded regular right handed threads on the opposite. With a hole in the middle, it was easy to adjust it to the final length I wanted.

[mistercrash]

I remember reading somewhere about the turning radius of the LSTs being to wide. Running my LST, I don't really notice this lack of turning radius so I measured it. I put the truck parallel to the curb with the wheels touching it and with the wheels turned at full lock, slowly made a U turn and once the truck was parallel to the curb again at the end of my U turn, I made a mark at the front wheel. Then I measured from the curb to the mark and got 71''. So I'm asking the other LST users here, what's your turning radius?

I don't own an LST but my revo with the steering mod is around 64" which I guess could be considered alot if you drive both and can notice the difference--Josh

[mistercrash]

I reworked my rear motor support system with the other half of the HPI Flux motor mount I had left. The screw for tightening the clamp and the screw that goes through the bracket to support the motor are now on the same side and I think it looks better and cleaner. This system is working extremely well by the way.

You might notice that there's a little bit of a rough edge in the opening of the top chassis plate for the steering linkage. I had to grind a half a millimeter off to clear the linkage's ball cup. It was knocking on the side of the opening at full steering throw. I corrected the issue in my drawing and I also made the opening for the diff's output cup a little less deep so that there is more material left between that opening and the one for the steering linkage.



The more I play with this truck, the more I like it. The way it handles, the way it jumps, the power it has and how easy it is to work on. This thing should be named Permagrin.

[JThiessen]

AH -I never noticed that your steering linkage was on top. I scratched my head for a while trying to figure out why you had to make a clearance for it.

Nice work.

[mistercrash]

Today's damage

One broken wheel (it was cracked before so no big loss)



And one pebble wedged in the wrong place. I was wondering why I lost steering all of a sudden.

[pinkpanda3310]

So you lost steering but kept the throttle on and that's how you broke the wheel. And you call youself mistercrash, lol.

[mistercrash]

Not really, the wheel broke like that from hitting a rock on the construction site we were running on. I kept on going. The pebble incident happened some time later on the second set of lipos.

[mistercrash]

Hmmm... After a 40 minute run with my 3S 5800 mah lipos, the temps were lipos: 120 F, ESC: 135 F and motor: 200 F

I was not happy that my beloved NEU 1521 got up to 200 degrees. I am presently geared with a 54 tooth spur and a 23 tooth RCM pinion. I was running MT Crime Fighters which are a lot smaller then the Losi LST wheels and tires. I also noticed after the run that there was a rock wedged between the rear tranny output CVD and the chassis top plate. This might have contributed to something but I think that I'm still geared too low. I can't go smaller on the spur so I just ordered three new RCM pinions. 24, 25 and 26 tooth. I hope I can find the correct gearing with those. It was an extremely hot and humid day with no wind and I ran the truck very hard on sand and gravel jumping a 5 foot gravel hill that was dumped in an empty lot yesterday near my house. I ran non stop for the whole lipo cycle, maybe I should give this truck a break from time to time

[suicideneil]

40 minutes straight? hmm...

I tend to check temps fairly regulalylllyylyylyy, allowing a 10 minute cooling down break as required- I know some guys prefer to just run & run, but sometimes the truck doesnt

[mistercrash]

I am not sure what to think of what you just said thererererere. Stop frequently to check temps and allow to cool if needed? I should be able to run this truck as I please for a whole lipo cycle and once it hits LVC, THEN I allow everything to cool before I put a fresh set of lipos in and keep going. With the outside temperature being what it was at the time and running non stop for 40 minutes, I expected the MMM to have the fan on and the lipos to be close or at 120 degrees. But I would have been happier if the motor showed 170 or 175, not 200. I'll try a larger pinion next time (gotta wait 'till they get here) and see if the motor temp goes down a bit. I hope it does.

Thanks Neil

[mistercrash]

I updated my MMM with new settings, it was at 10° timing so I went to 0° and brought down the braking from 40% to 30%. The motor temp went down a bit from 200 to 190. ESC was at 135 and lipos at 118. It's a little better but not quite enough. The weather was pretty much the same as the other day, very hot and humid and I was running the same lipos, bashing in the same spot and doing the same things with the truck which is run it fast and jump it high. I'm thinking a motor heat sink would help.

Anyone know where I can find a good heat sink for a 40 mm motor?

How in the world did a rock get in there, and when I yanked it out, I noticed my first breakage of a suspension component.

[brian015]

This should fit:

8E heatsink

[mistercrash]

Thanks. Nice one, and I love that it's from Losi. I ordered one. I think it should help a lot.

[brian015]

I looked at that one for my build, but I don't have room for those fins with my rear bulkhead brace. So I've been working on a custom heatsink made from flat, square, cpu sinks!

edit: I want to know how the heck that rock got in there too.