Quark fried, blown capacitor...

Looks good. I think you are going in a good direction. You could put something in between the 2 connectors and use some bigger shrink tubing go around both 5.5 connectors to tie the both together structurally. It would also be good for protecting the bare ends of the 5.5 cons.

If you still want to use the case you might have to remove the connectors all together and maybe just use 2 sets of wire. One for the batteries and one for the caps, providing you can get both sets of wire to fit through the case.

[BrianG]

What about using a Deans plug?

Well, I had it all setup. I had done a test run and all was ok. I got the esc mounted in the new case, plugged it in and...nothing. What the heck. I unplugged everything and checked everything and noticed that the top pcb had pulled out of a socket of some sort on the bottom pcb. I pushed it back in and hooked everything back up and...SMOKE.

Oh well. Back to the MM and nice cool running.

I thought that the two pcbs were supposed to be soldered together. Why would they separate like that. Maybe the guy that soldered the motor leads on did the pcbs too.

[BrianG]

Man, you really have bad luck with this stuff!

Anyway, the boards are connected by pins going through each board. On one end, the pins are soldered to both boards, so they won't come apart short of desoldering the pins. On the other end (near the caps) it is a socket/pin setup, so they can seperate.

i suggest NCC KZM series 470uf/35v caps ,it's more better PL
size fit stock size.

here is picture

[zeropointbug]

andy, where did you purchase those from? I am trying to get onto the NCC website, but it's being dumb. What are the specs on them? They look nice anyway.

specs is here

KZM http://www.chemi-con.com/files/KZM.pdf
ALL Alu cap's http://www.chemi-con.co.jp/pdf/catal...d-e-070315.pdf

but i am purchase from our local auction.

you can try here http://goods.ruten.com.tw/item/show?11070501028241

hope this help.

[suicideneil]

AAngel- bummer man. I take it you can put it back to stock still, and solder the old caps back on too. Worst case is S&T warantee it and then you can sell it when you get it back.

[zeropointbug]

The KZM are nice. 0.028 ESR, the Nichicon's are 0.060 ESR. I wonder what the stock caps in the Quark are?

If I can find a supplier, I would use Nichicon HC 35v/220uF (0.026 ESR), the best I have found is a minimum order supplier of 600. :005: :024:

[zeropointbug]

Wow, you are just @$$ backwards in terms of what other ppl have experienced here AAngel! :005:

I have never had a MM, but I know my Quark was glass smooth and smooth torque start, never cogged.... until, well you know.

Then everyone is saying that the MM coggs alot with some setups, and is not very smooth. But you sure are having some good luck with your Mamba now! So you're sure it was the caps that made a difference then?

[bdebde]

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

Wow, you are just @$$ backwards in terms of what other ppl have experienced here AAngel! :005:

I have never had a MM, but I know my Quark was glass smooth and smooth torque start, never cogged.... until, well you know.

Then everyone is saying that the MM coggs alot with some setups, and is not very smooth. But you sure are having some good luck with your Mamba now! So you're sure it was the caps that made a difference then?

I been having great luck with the Mambas too! I ran a 7XL for a while in 1/8th buggy on 4s (14/46 gears), but it runs too hot (not the mamba though). Went to 8XL (motor still running pretty hot) and both are very smooth and mamba is very cool on the 8XL. I can run very smoothly even at low speeds and have NO cogging, even rolling backwards then going forward will cause a bit only sometimes. I have more cogging with the mamba 5700 in my MT2 running on 3s, still only if I try. That rig really pushes the mamba motor to the max at 5 pounds, geared for 50 mph+. Of course I can say nothing about the Quark as I never had one (33a one in miniLST runs real smooth and cool, though).

I have it all back together. I figure worse case is that they won't warranty it and I have to buy another at a discounted price. If it comes to that, I don't know what I'll do. I may just trash it or give someone else the opportunity to have it replaced.

When I was running it (the Quark) at the track, my friends who usually drive my truck were asking what I had done to it. They said that it seemed more abrupt and not as smooth and forgiving. They suggested that I go back to what I had before, which was the Mamba Max.

Today, I wired the MM with the four cap bank back up to the 8ight T and you know...I do like it better than the Quark. Running 14/46, it's still a killer on the track, the esc doesn't break a sweat, and it's so smooth (as long as I don't overgear it) that I can actually do some rock crawling with it when I'm running the 40 series Moabs.

It's cost me almost $600 to wind up where I started, with the MM. If I had that money back, at this point I'd just go and buy three or four more MMs and just stick 'em on the shelf in case I need them. There's just that Neu issue though.

Perhaps I'll get surprised with my Compro sitting on my doorstep sometime soon. I'll give that another try and see if the software issues that I was having were resolved. I do have to say, the Compro is one cool customer. That thing never got over 150 and I didn't do anything to keep it cool.

Well, as I've mentioned before...I have one particular MM that has really treated me right. I don't know that the others that I have wouldn't, but this one has done all I've asked of it. Just keep in mind that I am running a relatively mild motor (9XL) in a relatively light truck (8ight) with conservative gearing that gets me around the track quickly. With the setup that I have right now, the MM is buttery smooth with the Feigao motor on 4S geared at 14/46 and 16/46.

Due to the Neu motor issues with the MM, I am now back to considering the Lehner 1940/9 (or maybe the 8); but the only place that has them in stock is a place that I refuse the do business with.

I would agree that the Quark is smooth, but it also starts rather abruptly too. With the MM I can start off at a crawl and gradually build up speed. Once the Quark kicks in, it's moving at faster than a crawl.

[MetalMan]

Tomorrow I'm planning on taking out my Hyper 8 with Neu 1512 2.5D and MM, along with a 4-cap (330uf low-ESR from AAngel) bank attached to the ESC with short 12ga. wire. I also redid the hardwiring of the motor leads, so hopefully that will produce an improvement.

MetalMan, how did you redo the motor leads? Do you mean that you just replaced them? I've been running 12 gauge wire on my MMs, but don't have a motor that would tell me if they made a difference or not.

Be sure to let us know how the 1512 ran. I find myself in a position to be able to buy a Neu motor, but don't want to until I have a dependable controller to run it with. I know that many have run the Quark, but to me, the Quark is yet unproven. I have my eye on a 1512 1.5Y.