two fast questions!!!

[Revracer]

i feel like its my bec that is making it heat up so bad. even without really running the motor. just lightly in circles, it heats up really really fast. no punching the throttle or anything like that. im gonna guess that thats a bec problem? once my battery is charged i plan on running it with a rx pack to see how it does.

[Revracer]

would it be better for me to run 12 cells and get 14.4v instead of running 3s with only 11.1? if what ya'll are saying is right then wouldnt that be better? its mroe power which would mean less amp draw right?

[BrianG]

It could be the BEC. Anything over 2s or 6 cells is going to cause a lot of heat, especially with a larger servo and/or heavy truck (servo works harder to turn).

However, the BEC circuit is on the underside of the ESC (near the USB port), so the heatsink isn't doing anything at all for it. If the heatsink is hot, the vast majority of the heat is coming from the FETs and the issue is with motor selection or gearing.

[Revracer]

well I just talked to Joe at castle and he said the way mine is it should be absolutely fine. I told him how it gets hot and to the point where I can only touch it for a few seconds before it burns. he says his will be so hot that it will melt skin and it will still run fine. is that right? my bec is coming out soon anyways. ordering a ccbec tonight. and ill get a nice cap on there too.

ps: briang - i like the binary sig... hahaha

[Revracer]

is it possible for my internal bec to be causing glitches? with the ESC getting really hot, is it possible for the bec to overheat and cause glitching?

[Pdelcast]

Originally Posted by Revracer

well I just talked to Joe at castle and he said the way mine is it should be absolutely fine. I told him how it gets hot and to the point where I can only touch it for a few seconds before it burns. he says his will be so hot that it will melt skin and it will still run fine. is that right? my bec is coming out soon anyways. ordering a ccbec tonight. and ill get a nice cap on there too.

ps: briang - i like the binary sig... hahaha

Well, if you can touch it for a couple seconds, you are in the 140-150 degree range (approx.) The MM is designed to run to 200 degrees, so you should be OK.

Patrick

[Revracer]

what about the bec causing glitches? this is really becoming a problem now. after about 5 minutes of driving it starts to glitch really bad and has started to run from me twice. i got lucky enough for it to respond to brakes right before it hit a mailbox at 35mph...

[phatmonk]

I have the MM with a bec and added fan.When I run 3s in my losi 8t the MM gets real hot but if I go 4s it seems to run less hot.That is with a Neu 1515/1.5d.I also run the MM 3s without a bec in my CRT.5 with a Neu 1512/1.5 and it hasnt overheated yet.Mine also without a bec glitched when it got real hot on 3s the steering pulsated also and it had throttle glitches.

[Revracer]

will running 12 cells be better then 3s? since its 14.4v over 11.1?

[Pdelcast]

Originally Posted by Revracer

will running 12 cells be better then 3s? since its 14.4v over 11.1?

Run an external BEC, and disable the MM BEC -- you are overheating the onboard BEC, that's why it is glitching only after five mins or so.

[Sammus]

I also had some glitching problems that sound like yours revracer (lock on throttle, only just respond to brakes in time - i experienced it with a sidewinder on 3s with and without BEC, and with a mamba max on 4s A123 with bec)). It ended up being interference, and all I did was twist the battery wires and braid the motor wires and all signs of it went away.

Anther possible suggestion is running a glitch buster cap in the out side of the BEC - or equivalently in a spare socket on the rx. I thought my voltage was dropping too low to power the rx and it would cut out for a split second - cap should fix that kind of thing.

[lincpimp]

I have had interference issues, but those were with cheap chinese becs. I just moved the equipment around till it went away. Braiding the motor wires does seem to help, as does keeping the low volt signal wires away from the large leads.

I would say that the mm overheated on the 8t on 3s due to too much load. I guess you regeared it when you went to 4s? More voltage, less gear, gives you less amp draw and the same speed. I bet that lowered the amp draw considerably. I run quite a few larger vehicles on 4s and they can easily pull 140 amps for a few seconds. I can only imagine what that 1.5d was pulling on 3s. Suprised that you did not kill a battery!

[Revracer]

so braiding my wires and a BEC and cap should fix everything? simple enough thanks!

Do you have motor plugs? I cut mine off, soldered them, and twisted my motor wires and it cleaned it up alot for me.

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by 1maxdude

Do you have motor plugs? I cut mine off, soldered them, and twisted my motor wires and it cleaned it up alot for me.

Yeah, bad connections between the motor and esc can cause severe glitching. I had issues with the 4mm plugs on the mm before.