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RC-Monster Aluminum
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Posts: 812
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: bay area california
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07.20.2008, 03:17 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by hoovhartid
yeah.
I guess my main point was to see if all 4 tires were giving the same about of torque under load. I suggest putting the truck up on something with the wheels suspended(free to spin). While the trigger is being pulled (lightly...if you are by yourself you can try to turn up your throttle on your transmitter till the wheels just start to spin)anyway--if one wheel is easier to stop than the other three, then that is the wheel that is spinning slower and causing you to veer off under throttle.
by the way..don't hold the wheels so tight that you break anything...i merely meant for you to find a part that may already be broken
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just checked. all four giving same power. plus i just realized it cant be one tire not spinning as fast, cus if that was the case, it prolly would veer off to the same side everytime, but its actually random. and say if it was to veer off to the right, when i turn left on my remote and i mean just a little bit, instead of centering out like it should, now my truck would veer off to the left...sooo annoying! impossible to drive pretty much, but at low speeds it does not do this. and if it does veer off at low speeds i can just counter turn and itll center out.
brian- im pretty sure its at high speeds and not at the amount of throttle i apply. because if i applied a good amount of throttle from the start, my truck will wheelie and take off but itll still go fairly straight. i think its more of as the truck is going in higher speeds.
you maybe right about the toe in/camber but i had it running straight before. and i wasnt even accurate with my toe in/camber..i just eyed it.
but now, i made sure theres the same amount of thread showing on both sides so its pretty accurate.
and the front tires are even more toe in now so i thought that would help but nope. i mean i can try toeing them in like a crazy amount but the fact is, i didnt need toe in before so i know it doesnt need it. i mean worse comes to worse ill just toe in like 5 degrees haha. and still im not even sure if thatll fix my problem.
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RC-Monster Admin
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Posts: 14,609
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
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07.20.2008, 03:21 AM
Generally, you toe IN the rear and toe OUT the fronts. And if this was the case, you'd most likely be veering in the same direction.
Also, check the foams in the tires. They can break up over time and get unbalanced. Also check the glue bonding the tire to the rim. It doesn't take much to mess up with tires spinning at high rpms.
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Monster Bottle Opener
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Posts: 468
Join Date: Jun 2008
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07.20.2008, 05:54 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by blueb8llz
if it was to veer off to the right, when i turn left on my remote and i mean just a little bit, instead of centering out like it should, now my truck would veer off to the left...sooo annoying!
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That is how mine re-acted. It didn't correct itself if i counter-steered, it OVER-corrected itself. Even if I barely touched it.
...The difference is, Mine always steered to the right when I accellerated past 15-20 mph and when I countersteered to the left, it over compensated. It drove me nuts because I couldn't duplicate it at slow speeds to see what was happening.
Have you tried holding the truck up in the air and pulling the throttle to see if you have excessive wobble in the wheels. Or to see if one wheel balloons up more than the other? Or to see if the wheels turn?
Have you moved your steering while throttling the truck with the wheels in the air?
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RC-Monster Aluminum
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Posts: 812
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: bay area california
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07.20.2008, 07:55 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by hoovhartid
Have you tried holding the truck up in the air and pulling the throttle to see if you have excessive wobble in the wheels. Or to see if one wheel balloons up more than the other? Or to see if the wheels turn?
Have you moved your steering while throttling the truck with the wheels in the air?
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i have done this before. and now im traumatized lol. one day i flipped my truck and it was on its lid. so i decided to give it some gas just to see how much my tires ballooned. to my surprise, it ballooned a decent amount and i ductd tape my tires. i noticed that one tire ballooned alot more than the others and then....pop!! that tire got all unbalanced! unglued the tires to see that the foam had ripped in half. this all happened before my problems started.
since then, i replaced that one tire with new tires and foams.
so now when you tell me to do what i did awhile ago, im scared haha. i mean i can take it easy on the throtttle but i dont know when is too much, cus when i did it the first time, i wasnt even gassing too hard.
im really starting to think you guys are right, it miiiiight be the tires unbalanced. cus i just turned my truck over and i gassed it, all tires spinning good and balanced. but i didnt really gass too hard, the more i gassed it, my truck started shaking, but the tires were still straight. but this is no where as much throttle as i would give it if the truck was on the ground. so maybe if there was more throttle, i could maybe see some flaws with my tires...hmmmm.kinda worried to check that out. but we might got a good idea now...it could be the tires.
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Guest
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07.20.2008, 02:33 PM
Thats easy to test - if it is the tires, swap sides with them - put LF on the right front and the LF on the right. Same for the back. Now it should pull left. Simple to test, should take little time.
I don't think its tires, as badly out of balance as some of what I've run have been, I've never had one act this way. More possible is BrianG's suggestion that toe is off. Unless trx has changed, they come with 0deg toe on front and 1deg toe in on the rear. Caster is set with caster blocks or spacers, are they still there and in the same place on both sides? Camber is the angle the tire makes with the vertical viewed dead on. These would have to be pretty far out of whack to cause your prob, so it should be readily apparent.
Drive pins - there is enough tension on wheel axles to drive a wheel until you reach enough speed that a missing pin will prevent that wheel from staying in synch with the others - then it will veer off straight line. Pins are all or nothing. If one starts to back out while running, it usually hits bulkhead and you'll def know it. I have seem then fly out and not touch anything, pin's just all of a sudden gone. Again, an easy thing to check and eliminate as a possibility. Have you checked all wheel bearings? Another easy thing to check that could be causing this.
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RC-Monster Aluminum
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Posts: 812
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: bay area california
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07.20.2008, 04:37 PM
innitally, it pulls to any side randomly, then which ever way i turn the wheel, itll pull to that side. so even if i switched the tires around, itll act the same way again, because it was not always pulling to that same side anyways.
i have the rpm arms in the front so i dont have caster adjusted. and the camber is showing the same amount of threads on my pillow bals so it should be the same on both sides. and the toe in showing the same threads on the turnbuckle.
and all drive pins are snug. ill trying adding alot of toe in on the fronts to see if that works. kinda sucks in a way cus i didnt have to use toe in before and it went straight. but id be happy that it goes straght again. out of curiousity, why wouldnt everyone run their trucks with alot of toe in. isnt it the more toe in the better steering? or does adding too much toe in decrease speed?
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Guest
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07.20.2008, 09:14 PM
Increasing toe-in - increases straight line stability, decreases strg response, and increases strg mid corner and on-power corner exits.
Maybe important for racing, not much significance for bashing unless your straightline stability is poor the way its setup. My E and 2 Tmaxxes all run stock toe which is zero deg.
Are you still using the stock dual strg servo arrangement? Sounds like its time to call TRX and see what advice their CS folks have. I wouldn't be running it with both anyway - I never ran dual strg servos in my G2R. I 'd plug a 200inlb single servo in there, epa it properly and eliminate servo synch as any kind of poss prob. The way this sounds, this should be something simple, not some prob from hades that can't be solved. Its just not that complicated.
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RC-Monster Aluminum
Offline
Posts: 812
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: bay area california
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07.20.2008, 10:16 PM
ill try the toe in for the fronts anyways. i also did this steering mod and i have yet to try it out. i ll be able to run my truck tomorrow. the mod i did was unscrew the screw in the reciever box for the servo saver side, then push down on the servo saver so that the spring compresses, not fully or your servo saver will not work but just a tad bit. and then screw back the screw in the reciver box while compressing the spring.
its prolly harder on my servos now cus it takes more effort for the servo saver to work, but less slop by like 30%.
and i also replaced the bushing on the left side to a ball bearing. im hoping it was just the sloppy steering.
if this fails then it is about that time to call traxxas CS. i will report back here with my findings.
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KillaHurtz
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Posts: 2,958
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Bucks Co, PA
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07.20.2008, 10:34 PM
I would recheck your alignment in back and front. This is for an emaxx right? I noticed w/ my Revo that since you have tie rods in both F and R, I had the F just a little misaligned to the L and the R a little misaligned to the Right, it would pull to different directions depending on the power/weight to what wheels. I'd use the trim to center it one way, and it would sometimes be straight... but then at other times it would pull.
it wasn't until I finally put it on a setup board and got it right did it ever track reliably for me. Eyeball method was never quite good enough for me.
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RC-Monster Aluminum
Offline
Posts: 812
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: bay area california
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07.21.2008, 10:09 PM
test ran the truck again with toe in like -5 degrees in the front and -2 in the back because of the true tracks. still same problem. im starting to think its the servo saver. can you guys do me a favor, turn your truck over and look at the servo saver, the part that breaks in two, does it break/move around at all when you turn your tires from left to right. does it move as one piece? i mean just turn your wheels left to right to show the slop, not enough to actually turn the servo.
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Monster Bottle Opener
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Posts: 468
Join Date: Jun 2008
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07.23.2008, 06:54 AM
ok... I might be reaching here...
did you recently remove any of the arms?
I'm wondering if maybe you forgot to replace your caster adjustment shims.
Or if you changed the caster adjustment at all. You should have two shims in each front upper suspension arm.
If you have not messed with them, maybe try adjusting them to have 2 shims towards the rear of each arm. (they go on the inside to push the arm as far back as it will go)
...this should increase your caster angle to 10 degrees, making your truck want to stay in a straight line more. Also give more traction to the front wheels etc...
Stock is 1 front 1 rear giving you 7 deg. if you put them in the front you get 3 degrees
If you don't know what the heck I'm talking about ...look at pg20 in the manual; http://www.traxxas.com/PDF-Library/3905_manual.pdf
...they explain it better than I can.
its traxxas part # 5134
anyway....what i was thinking was that if you were missing them...maybe when you accelerate the arms are sliding around on the pins and messing with your steering control.
Last edited by hoovhartid; 07.23.2008 at 06:57 AM.
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Guest
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07.23.2008, 07:19 AM
If I understood him correctly the other day, he's running RPM arms and they fill the spaces at the bulks and don't use caster shims. WIth RPM arms, you run what they built into the arms.
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Guest
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07.23.2008, 12:31 PM
I may be reaching here...how about removing the stock plastic servo saver set and replacing with an aluminum set and heavy spring....
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RC-Monster Aluminum
Offline
Posts: 812
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: bay area california
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07.23.2008, 05:11 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by hoovhartid
ok... I might be reaching here...
did you recently remove any of the arms?
I'm wondering if maybe you forgot to replace your caster adjustment shims.
Or if you changed the caster adjustment at all. You should have two shims in each front upper suspension arm.
If you have not messed with them, maybe try adjusting them to have 2 shims towards the rear of each arm. (they go on the inside to push the arm as far back as it will go)
...this should increase your caster angle to 10 degrees, making your truck want to stay in a straight line more. Also give more traction to the front wheels etc...
Stock is 1 front 1 rear giving you 7 deg. if you put them in the front you get 3 degrees
If you don't know what the heck I'm talking about ...look at pg20 in the manual; http://www.traxxas.com/PDF-Library/3905_manual.pdf
...they explain it better than I can.
its traxxas part # 5134
anyway....what i was thinking was that if you were missing them...maybe when you accelerate the arms are sliding around on the pins and messing with your steering control.
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yea i have rpm arms and they dont require those shims. but i have the old rpm arms and they fit very snug onto the bulks. so what i did was dremel the part where it fits into the bulkhead (the hinge pins go through them as well).
if your saying that the shim is that important and will cause steering probs. i might have sanded one side more than the other! but then again, if this was the prob, i should have never been able to go top speed in a straight line, which i was able to like a month ago.
hmmm..i just checked my front arms and the top left arm do have some play. the other 3 are snug, but still free moving. i must have sanded that one a bit too much. dude, i wonder if this is the reason!! now how can i fix this? put a washer inbetween somewhere? the play is so minimal that the thinnest washer wont fit i dont think. but say it does, how would i know what side to put it on?
azjc-i decided last 9 that i was gonna get a new servo saver..but not a aluminum one cus i dont know anybody that makes a good one. i found some but people are telling me that will just bend, not good aluminum. this was gonna be my last straw, if the new servo saver fails, i was just gonna give up. i even called traxxas but he was no help at all, told me nothing i didnt know already, plus he sounded rude. i called again but same dude answered so i hung up on him haha.
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Guest
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07.23.2008, 06:10 PM
I've put 2 sets of rpm arms on, a Tmaxx and Emaxx. I fitted them like you did - I used a drum sander on dremel until the arms were free to move under their own weight. Both sets have no back and forth play in the bulks .
If you have taken too much off one arm, get some washers and shim out the play. I would push arm forward and shim play out play in that direction. I think tyhat will come closest to matching the camber of the other arm. Ultimately, if its bad enough to be the cause of all this, need to replace that arm.
Sorry the trx jerk was a waste of time. I've had some good luck and some poor - ity depends on who you connet with and what kind of day he's been having, it can be hit or miss, some are incredibly helpful, knowledgeable, and patient. Maybe it was his day off??
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