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TDC57
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08.15.2008, 03:43 AM

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Originally Posted by TruckBasher View Post
Wow Shaun, how many race do you attend in a week. you got 2 truggy, 2 buggy and the slash. You must have a lot of time

2WD can be PITA but you just need to get the hang of it

Jeff
Hay Jeff..
Yes it is a huge PITA but I'm no quitter, so keep with it and hopefully it will pay off.


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Very nice Shaun!
Thank you Sir..


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BlackedOutREVO
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08.15.2008, 03:47 AM

Dang Shaun, you have a whole house full of rc's dont you! LOL, lets all go have a party at your house, you have enough rc's to keep us all entertained! LOL

Looks awesome! Love those rims!
   
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Sammus
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08.15.2008, 04:05 AM

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Originally Posted by TDC57 View Post
I’ll also try a lighter sway bar and maybe some suspension adjustments..
You want to soften the rear end or stiffen the front to reduce oversteer (ie car swapping ends). I can't see a rear bar on there, so if your going to adjust the front bar make it harder, not softer.

Also I dont think its adjustable on those cars without aftermarket mods, but toe in at the back will help you a lot to track straight under power.

Last edited by Sammus; 08.15.2008 at 04:08 AM.
   
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TDC57
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08.19.2008, 01:01 AM

Ok So after listening to everybody about how I need to adjust / better my driving style and remove the locked diff, her is what I have now..

First of all YOU WERE RIGHTE!!! The unlocking of the diff made a huge difference!! I also swapped out the front sway bar for a lighter 808 bar, messed with the toe in / out and relaxed the old trigger finger.. LOL..

At that point I realized that my Pro-line Flat Irons are worthless (rock crawler tires) so I went out and got some proper tires. I'm now running bowties in the rear and Edge tires in the front. I also received my front Hyper 8.5 shocks for the front shock swap over (tonight’s project).

Tomorrow I'm slapping the body on it and hitting the park.. I hope to have Vid of it for your viewing pleasure. LOL.LOL (come one come and see the moron who cant drive) LOL.LOL..

Thanks again for your time and help gentlemen..

Have a great week









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Sammus
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08.19.2008, 01:32 AM

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Originally Posted by TDC57 View Post
I also swapped out the front sway bar for a lighter 808 bar
Have you read any of my posts at all? if you want to reduce oversteer, you want a FIRMER front sway bar and/or springs, and SOFTER rear springs/sway.

That said, with an unlocked diff and proper tyres, you may not even have an oversteer problem anymore. But putting a lighter front bar on certainly wasn't part of the solution :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by TDC57 View Post
messed with the toe in / out
Could you adjust the rear? it looks like its got some nice toe in on the rear in one of the pics (could just be the angle), but the rustler comes with 0deg toe on the rear, and there is no way to adjust it without flm tranny or mods.

Last edited by Sammus; 08.19.2008 at 01:37 AM.
   
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MetalMan
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08.19.2008, 02:08 AM

If I remember correctly, the Nitro Rustler rear arms the Slash uses have 1.5 deg. of toe-in. The hubs have none, so it should be 1.5 deg. total.


SH Z-Car, Custom Crawler, 8s Savage, 12s XTM XLB 1/7 buggy, 4wd 4-link rear/IFS Pro4 truck, Custom Hyper 10 Short Course, Belt-Drive Mammoth ST 1/8 truggy, 4s 17.5 MM Pro HPI Blitz
   
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Sammus
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08.19.2008, 02:12 AM

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Originally Posted by MetalMan View Post
If I remember correctly, the Nitro Rustler rear arms the Slash uses have 1.5 deg. of toe-in. The hubs have none, so it should be 1.5 deg. total.
The slash uses nitro rear arms? but I thought it was the same gearbox as the erustler?, and the nitro rustler and erustler arms I thought weren't interchangeable...
   
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Gee
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08.19.2008, 02:43 AM

Looks like they are different front and rear arms then the electric rustler/stampede. The nitro uses mounting blocks. They must be the same width (at the transmission) as the electric though. The arms are a little longer for the nitro about a 1/4 inch. Don't know about the toe-in. I've checking into it a bit. Got enough parts in a bin to make another rustler but have found the motivation. If I get a slash chassis it might be the motivation I need.


Shaun, looks like you got it going in the right direction now. Another nice build. Don't see any aluminum yet. I like those rims. I've invested in the pro lines and axials but they both don't address the offset issues very well at all. I tried the link you provided but there was problems with it. I'll check it again. In the beginning with a 2wd it easy to spin donuts and fishtail. Everyone thinks you doing them on purpose. Just agree with them on how cool it is. LOL How does it do keeping the front end down?
   
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MetalMan
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08.19.2008, 11:02 AM

Check out the rear exploded view of the Slash:
http://www.traxxas.com/PDF-Library/5805_rear.pdf
Here's the part number referenced for the rear arms:
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/630234.asp
These are shorter than the electric Rustler arms.

And then the front exploded view:
http://www.traxxas.com/PDF-Library/5805_front.pdf
And the front arms:
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/630831.asp
These are the electric Rustler front arms.


SH Z-Car, Custom Crawler, 8s Savage, 12s XTM XLB 1/7 buggy, 4wd 4-link rear/IFS Pro4 truck, Custom Hyper 10 Short Course, Belt-Drive Mammoth ST 1/8 truggy, 4s 17.5 MM Pro HPI Blitz
   
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Gee
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08.19.2008, 01:33 PM

Yeah I was wrong on that. Got something mixed up. The rears for the slash are 3 5/8 and the ruslter electrics are 3 15/16. I think I compared the backs length to the front arms. I remember see 3 1/4. Late night surfing will do that. Looks like the front arms are the same for the slash and rustler part # 3631. Thanks for getting it straight Metalman.
   
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