The Slato TRX vehicle

Got pics?

of what ?

[BL_RV0]

Of the truck with the 30 series.

Super! Asheck could you tell me the lenght of the Jato rear arm, mesure from the hinge pin near the tranny thrue the hinge pin how attach the rear hub??

More, could you tell me the part number for the diff locker??

Thank you!

David

[_paralyzed_]

what did you use for camber and steering links?

I don't have the new tires yet.It will probably have to wait till after Christmas ,kids might be mad if all presents are for me. locker: http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-Slash-Ru...1%7C240%3A1318 It's roughly 4 3/8 inches from Tranny hinge to carrier hinge. I'm using the Jato rear hubs,so it's just like a Jato. The steering links are from a Stampede ,but they are just long enough,I would prefer a little longer then 78mm.The fronts are from the rear of a VXL,but my shocktower has multible positions,and the rears are 94mm Emaxx lengths.

[_paralyzed_]

thanks

Could you use the stock Jato camber and steering link???
And why have you put a diff locker in your diff??? The Stock Slash diff is suppose to be tough and handle great power, no??

I don't think so,but I'm unsure as to there exact length.Honestly I had a bunch of different lengths here to work with and am unsure how they compare to stock. Here's a better build thread,but it's with a Stampede,so some things will be different, http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65373 It's not really how I did it,but thats what makes a project like this your own.

I think that i can not put the jato arm on the back of my slash, because i have the RCM aluminium trany case, and i can not grind the to-in block who hold the rear arm. Because i think that the jato arm, at the trany mounting point, is narower that the stock slash arm, right??

But if you can mesure the interior widht of the arm at the trany mounting point, this will give me an idea. I don,t know if you understand what i mean??

is narower that the stock slash arm, right??

correct ,by 3/16 of an inch.If it was for a racer you could possibly get away with just grinding the arms,but for bashing there's no way I would trust it. I bet you could get someone to make a toe-in block for you relatively cheap,with the right size hinge point.

If i remove 3/64 on each side of the toe-in block and 3/64 on each side of the arm, i'll have the 3/16 and i'am sure that never will broke.

Edit : I'm following you now.Yeah it should work,I'm not sure about the FLM block.

Nice build. Had been looking at the slash chassis and jato wide conversion on ultimate traxxas. Saw your thread on the traxxas forums I believe. I've now also ordered the necessary parts and going to do the same build (with rpm jato arms and hotracing 17mm adapters, and maybe halfoffset lpr truggy rims with lpr bowtie's).

I had gpsed it at 48,but it had more in it.It was a little monster,with wheelies at will.If I had been willing to lose a little power,or loosen up the slipper more it should be fine.It's just kinda hard for me to compromise those things as a hard basher.All said and done I am very happy with it.My new shafts will hopefully be in on Friday,I'll slap some Talons on it and see what happens.

what killed the shafts/diff torque or speed or both?