Pass it on... Post a tip or a trick you know about for what ever it is.

[Gee]

LOL. I stopped licking my finger to get that c clip out (but had done it in desperation once or twice). I keep little magnets next to all the small screws and parts bins that don't have the slope to them. Frustrating getting one out some times. In addition to that for the shims that don't stick to the magnet I use a unbent paper click to do my fishing with.

[_paralyzed_]

do not trust her, even if she says she's on birth control pull out man, pull out

[jayjay283]

1. c clips, a nail biters worst enemy !
2. Only pull out if shes ugly, can't cook and is a gold digger. Trifecta

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by jayjay283

2. Only pull out if shes ugly, can't cook and is a gold digger. Trifecta

Ummm, shouldn't those 3 things clue you in to not "insert" in the first place?

Thats how I used to do it, but maybe I missed out on a few good times....

[molak]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

Ummm, shouldn't those 3 things clue you in to not "insert" in the first place?

Thats how I used to do it, but maybe I missed out on a few good times....

no, those things clue me in to closing my eyes, using my imagination and pulling out! ...

[jayjay283]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

Ummm, shouldn't those 3 things clue you in to not "insert" in the first place?

Thats how I used to do it, but maybe I missed out on a few good times....

rofl you can take it how you want, but 5 years in Manhattan I would have been real lonely without the "pull out" girls

[Gee]

That reminds me about "Bare" tools. Say you already have yourself an 18v cordless drill. They usually come with two batteries and a charger. The batteries were actually what cost the most in your purchase. You don't need more batteries. You can start building up your tool cabnet a lot cheaper by buying bare tools now. Cordless tools that are sold by themselves without batteries and charges. Add a 18v cordless jigsaw or flashlight. Do a search for Bare tools and look at the price difference with the tools sold at the LHS with batteries.

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by jayjay283

rofl you can take it how you want, but 5 years in Manhattan I would have been real lonely without the "pull out" girls

At least you did not resort to men....

Originally Posted by Gee

That reminds me about "Bare" tools. Say you already have yourself an 18v cordless drill. They usually come with two batteries and a charger. The batteries were actually what cost the most in your purchase. You don't need more batteries. You can start building up your tool cabnet a lot cheaper by buying bare tools now. Cordless tools that are sold by themselves without batteries and charges. Add a 18v cordless jigsaw or flashlight. Do a search for Bare tools and look at the price difference with the tools sold at the LHS with batteries.

I did that with the milwauke v28 stuff. I already had a battery from a trade, bought a charger for 35 and the drill for 150, the combo with batt costs 360 new, I also picked up a 6.5" circular saw too, only 95 for that. The 28v stuff has some power, and the cells are 3000mah so long runtimes too.

this is all i got , but , it has worked for me for years




clean and inspect for damage before you put it away, even if you didnt run it in the MUD , it works in every part of your life

[Gee]

Milwauke makes some nice tools, not cheap either. You probably give them a pretty good work out your shop. Bare tool are the way to go. I never heard of them up until a while back.

Thanks entjoles. A good tip and thanks for leaving one. Looking at the replies vs the views on this thread. There have been people sneaking in and taking tips and not leaving any. Unbelievable.

I found the tip about the Sharpie permanent ink removal. This is a tip from Jhautz. He told me about it when I was painting my Losi Baja Bug body. I marked outlines and drew on the outside while I was painting it. When I was done. I went to peal off the plastic from the outside. There was no plastic coating on this one. Funny looking back at it now. At the time I wasn't laughing though.

"I used to work in new product development for the company that makes Sharpie. Here is the easiest way to remove the Sharpie from a smooth, non-porous surface. Trace over the area that you used the Sharpie on with a dry erase white board marker. Let it dry (15 seconds or so is all it really takes) and then wipe the Sharpie off like it was a dry erase marker. Its that easy. Works great on Lexan bodies"

Great tip from Jhautz.

[eovnu87435ds]

a few tips...
1. if you're going to run in mud, check the puddles for depth before hand, so you dont end up submerging your entire r/c
2. if you have the extra hex wrenches, cut off the short end, put the long end in the chuck of screwgun or power driver, it makes life alot easier. just remember to set the clutch low...
3. if your dremel gets hot, stop using it for a while instead of just continuing with a glove on
4. dont paint your body in the cold
5. mark drilling holes with everything assembled on your r/c... that way you dont drill a hole, then realize that the bolt has to go somewhere where it cant...
6. before making something extravagant for your chassis, make sure the body will still fit on
7. only use a lipo charges that you can set for your battery manually, and have it check for mistakes. dont let it automatically choose!
8. keep your wires going from your motor to your esc short to avoid radio interference(not a problem with 2.4GHz)
9. Make sure you have proper spur/pinion gear mesh... for steel its easy enough- push as close as you can so they an spin without binding, and u still hear little "tinks" if you rattle one of the gears. for steel to plastic fold a piece of paper in half, smush it inbetween as much as u can, roll the gears a bit so the paper is crimped... then tighten.
10. especially with steel to plastic make sure you're motor screws are really tight, but that you dont drive into the windings of the motor
11. for connectors, females always go on the batteries. males on the charger/esc/rx
12. unless your rx strictly specifies, the darkest color of the PWM cables(black, brown, etc) go on the outside side
13. invest in a temp gun and check temperatures immediatly after each run.
14. Make sure that if your r/c flips, it wont land right on your expensive electronics
15. put zipties on the end of your bodyclips, or get those ones that mount to your body so you dont lose them
16. when designing, KISS(keep it simple stupid!)

[Metallover]

I can realate to #6...

On #15 when you put the ziptie one, fold the ziptie over, cut off the extra, and put fuel tubing over it.

-Always look for cars (1:1) before doing a pass. Don't get too close to cars when racing them.

I was racing a car with my evader and got too close and while it didn't get run over, it flipped and tumbled and in the process it banged against the side of the car and the people got out. they weren't all that mad, but just think if they were....

[eovnu87435ds]

i do the same with my zipties, only heatshrink instead
i can relate to every single one of them since, i learned all of them from a bad experience!

[Gee]

I had to sneak in and steal this from a different thread, but I knew eventually we'd get a tip from Lincpimp that didn't have something do with midgets or donkeys. LOL

Painting aluminum

Originally Posted by lincpimp

The best thing to paint al is to get it very clean, lightly sand it (400grit) and apply some zinc chromate etching primer. You can get it in spray cans for easy usage. It is thin primer, so it just coats the metal and etchs into it. After it drys, scuff it with a red scuff pad (scotchbrite - 3m name) and apply some decent enamel paint. I like spray paint for engine blocks, dries hard and shiny. Not sure what color you want, most auto parts stores have a selection.

You may have to look around for the zinc chromate primer, but it is available.

Not sure if i would use a clear coat over the enamel, it dries very shiny if applied properly, use light coats and warm the can in a bowl of warm water before you spray. And shake well!

[Metallover]

Get to know the owner of your local hobby shop, especiallyif the lhs isn't far away. Most hobby shops can get things for the same price or cheaper then online stores, and you don't have to pay shipping. If it is out of stock, they can usually get things in in a few days.

lhs owners are also great sources of information. They know about the local racing and flying. They also have experience and own a few kits. Theres a good chance they take em out and drive them around or fly them to show you how they perform if he/she has the time.

My stance on lhs's is that I personally prefer dealing with a real person that you can talk to and joke around with then 18 inches of lifeless changing colors.