I think my Neu 1515 1y broke down .. - Page 2 - RC-Monster Forums

Nard Cox · 11.29.2009, 03:52 PM

I tried to rotate the shaft within the magnest, but that's not possible, or atleast not with ease. I put the Flux motor on the ESC and that worked perfect, but I can not mount it on the RC8Te.

E-Revonut · 11.29.2009, 04:08 PM

If it's not the magnet slipping on the shaft I would really look at resoldering your motor connectors then, it'll take less than 10 minutes and just cost you the price of some shrink tubing to cover them back up!

Nard Cox · 11.29.2009, 06:29 PM

I will check the 'fases' first, but need a battery for that.

With motor connectors you mean the motor stiff wire to my other wire (which was a pain in the ass to solder since the solder didn't stick properly to the original wire) or the other wire to the connectors (which go into the Esc) ?

Any good way to take the current heat shrink off without damaging the underlying wire, or just be very careful with a ''stanley''.

JThiessen · 11.29.2009, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nard Cox

I will check the 'fases' first, but need a battery for that.

With motor connectors you mean the motor stiff wire to my other wire (which was a pain in the ass to solder since the solder didn't stick properly to the original wire) or the other wire to the connectors (which go into the Esc) ?

Any good way to take the current heat shrink off without damaging the underlying wire, or just be very careful with a ''stanley''.

I think E-Revonut may have won the diagnosis award.........

suicideneil · 11.29.2009, 08:36 PM

Ak-me-blad!

Well, I'll shut up about the magnet

Sounds like you didnt have a hot enough iron to make a good joint, or did you shorten the original wires at all? They have a speical coating on the them, with only the last 1-2cm being bare wire; you have to scratch off the coating before you can solder to the wires properly.

E-Revonut · 11.29.2009, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JThiessen

I think E-Revonut may have won the diagnosis award.........

I really can't take that much credit. If it wasn't for the info I've read on this forum I wouldn't have been able to diagnose this problem. Many people have had this problem, I've read it here many times. Personally only time I've had a situation like this was with a Novak esc and it was just toast!

Nard Cox · 11.30.2009, 04:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by suicideneil

Sounds like you didnt have a hot enough iron to make a good joint, or did you shorten the original wires at all? They have a speical coating on the them, with only the last 1-2cm being bare wire; you have to scratch off the coating before you can solder to the wires properly.

The iron is pretty hot (touched with my fingers a couple of times

). I think it's 160W, but would have to check that.

I didn't shorten the wires (but I bought it used), but like you said the last 1cm was exposed. So I would have to scratch it off and then solder..

Riko · 11.30.2009, 03:49 PM

so problem solved now or as we're speaking? :)

suicideneil · 11.30.2009, 06:01 PM

The special coating is only on the wires upto the last cm or so- shouldnt need to scratch off any coating if the wires were the full length, but if the previous owner shortend the wires at all... hard to say without being there to have a play with it myself. Im sure you'll get it worked out though- has the motor always been like this since you bought it, or was it just a recent problem?

brushlessboy16 · 11.30.2009, 06:28 PM

Castle motors have the windings 100 percent internal... The wires coming out of the motor, are just that- wires. not part of the windings. I have found that castle solder is a pain in the ass. Nip the tip of the wires off with some dikes, and freshly tin the wire..

Nard Cox · 11.30.2009, 06:44 PM

@ neil, I happened to have some pictures which show the wires (was not focusing on the wires so that's why they are out of focus).

Picture 1
Picture 2

@ blboy16, This is a Neu motor, not Castle. Concerning whether they are a part or not, i thought I read that they were, but not sure on that.

brushlessboy16 · 11.30.2009, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nard Cox

@ neil, I happened to have some pictures which show the wires (was not focusing on the wires so that's why they are out of focus).

Picture 1
Picture 2

@ blboy16, This is a Neu motor, not Castle. Concerning whether they are a part or not, i thought I read that they were, but not sure on that.

you are correct, i thought you had the castle version

Nard Cox · 11.30.2009, 06:46 PM

No problem

suicideneil · 12.01.2009, 12:49 PM

Hmm, they dont look shortend at all. Must just be awkward solder- it should be pretty easy to do a butt joint with the new wire extensions, what kinda solder you using? Try either lead free rosin ore stuff, or the nice silver solder...

Nard Cox · 12.02.2009, 06:52 PM

So guys, tonight I asked mom and dad where I could find a batt for my multimeter, they said they had one in the libra. So I took it out and put it in the multimeter and voila it worked. So I immediate check the fases they were all 0.3 (with the ohm @ 200). I check it with the + and - reversed also, just to make sure.

So just for the heck of it I decided to put the shaft and magnet back into the can and put the endbell on again. That I plugged it into the Esc and give it a little throttle, it seemed smooth again. So I mounted it on the RC8Te and put a pinion on it. Again with the wheels in the air it was smooth. So I put the truck on the ground and what do you guess ..............???.............................it was smooth. So I put the body on and went outside (it's 23:45, dark, little bit of raining, hardly any street light, had a t-shirt on) and drove the truck around a little, it seemed to be fine. Hopefully I will have some time tomorrow to test it a bit more to see whether it's really fine or not.

I'll keep you updated!!

Thanks all for the advise so far!!