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Ellwood BL
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04.08.2010, 10:41 PM

Itbvolks, I ran today at the track with temps being at the hottest 145 on the motor. It must have been that bad solder joint. Let me know what you think of the AKA City Blocks once you run them. I will say one thing about AKA rims, I am not sure they are the greatest for strength. At the outdoor track I run with big jumps, I cracked both of my rear I-Beams. Also let me know how your rims hold up.

Nuz69, the sensored does make a difference at all times. No matter what speed your at the throttle and brake are always the same meaning that 1/2 throttle is always 1/2 throttle and the same for the brake. A great example is jumping. Sometimes in the air the MMM wasn't always the same for correction meaning full brake would sometimes half correct an upright jump and sometimes it would make it nosedive. With sensored it is always the same due to the sensor knowing the position of the rotor. I had several hardcore racers drive my truggy and they all said how much smoother it was than the MMM. Just my .02 cents.
   
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itbvolks
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04.09.2010, 09:39 AM

Nice, sounds like you sorted the issue. This still running the 16/46 gearing? Good temps to be at.

Sensored motors are just taking advantage of rotor position at zero/low rpm. Helps with cogging and initial low rpm throttle transitions. I'm 95% sure even the tekin setup goes sensorless once your through that initial transition period (not exactly sure where it occurs). Sensored should help with braking and transitioning on/off throttle and probably a little with mid-air corrections but once the motor is into it's rpm range, it's running sensorless.
   
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Ellwood BL
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04.09.2010, 03:01 PM

Yeah maybe you are correct about just the initial throttle and brake, I just know that midair there is a huge difference between sensored and non-sensored. I am still running 16/45 with great temps. I am not sure what was causing low speed cogging, maybe the bad solder joint also.
   
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