Traxxas Slash 4WD Durability???

[Bondonutz]

Originally Posted by asheck

These rims and tires from a Losi/10 T ?

[Overdriven]

I doubt motor torque or slipper setting have much to do with the axle issue. On RCTech it was speculated the axle issue is related to suspension travel, weight and the hardness of the axles used. Axle is the same hardness as a 2wd in a heavier 4x4. Also users who did the Losi shock mod (or other longer shocks) said the axle issue went away. The theory is when the shock bottoms out, the downward load is transfered to weakest link, being the axles. But like I said, I bent more than one sliding the rear into things that shouldn't have bent them. And they always bent right at the hole for the hex pin, at least it was easier to dremel off the bent part so the bearing wasn't destroyed getting it out. And I believe Traxxas has an axle that's supposed to fix the problem. Haven't seen in at the lhs yet, but supposedly they'll send a set if you actually used the product registration card instead of throwing it away.

My fix was going to be finding the right bearings to use older style Maxx shafts in the stock carriers. But I wanted something different and never got around to it.

Well if your on your third, you should be getting faster at changing them:) Really though, that's not to bad for your situation, I'm sure that 10xl played into it. I would just slap another in there, and shim the pinion gear. That has seemed to me , my best bets. I've been running a Tork CC/NEU 2200 for quite awhile now.

Thanks on the Slash. Not that I don't like a Corr truck, it's just not what I saw out of this platform. Mine handles so much better, and is lighter, that I think it plays into the issues of dependability.

[TexasSP]

I would work on shimming the diffs, it can provide a world of difference. Another option is aluminum diff cases and cups. This will eliminate the flex that can cause problems as well, but again shimming is imperative.

Shimming takes some trial and error and the diffs always have to be shimmed on both sides to keep everything straight. One side will usually require more than the other though.

[sikeston34m]

Originally Posted by TexasSP

I would work on shimming the diffs, it can provide a world of difference. Another option is aluminum diff cases and cups. This will eliminate the flex that can cause problems as well, but again shimming is imperative.

Shimming takes some trial and error and the diffs always have to be shimmed on both sides to keep everything straight. One side will usually require more than the other though.

One thing that I don't like about the factory gear mesh, on brand new diffs is:

When I rotate the pinion by hand, they feel free on one side of the ring, then spin it to the other side and it feels like it's binding. There's something that isn't true from the start. The diff cup maybe?

I have thought about the aluminum cases and the diff cup. The diff cups that I have found, only have a cutout to accept the spider gear pin.

Are there any aluminum diff cups on the market that accept the bigger, beefier carrier found in the stock E Revo diffs?

[sikeston34m]

@ Bondo

Your trucks are pushing alot of power. Wild rides to play with? How do they handle?

I like the idea of a Mamba Max Pro couple together with a Medusa 36-60-1500kv. I have a pair of Kong Power 6S 26C 2600mah packs that I think will work good with this.

[Bondonutz]

Originally Posted by sikeston34m

@ Bondo

Your trucks are pushing alot of power. Wild rides to play with? How do they handle?

I like the idea of a Mamba Max Pro couple together with a Medusa 36-60-1500kv. I have a pair of Kong Power 6S 26C 2600mah packs that I think will work good with this.

Wow, you think I'm pushing a lot of power ? I'm only on 3s..

You want to run 6s with plastic axles ? E-gads my friend, forget it you'll never be happy. Buy a TANK.

[sikeston34m]

Originally Posted by Bondonutz

Wow, you think I'm pushing a lot of power ? I'm only on 3s..

You want to run 6s with plastic axles ? E-gads my friend, forget it you'll never be happy. Buy a TANK.

Are there cvd's available for the Slash? That would be one answer if there are issues with the stockers.

Yeah, 6S.

The thing about it is, on 6S, gear it right, conservatively around............ooooooh let's say 60mph or so. Then tame it some with the ESC settings.

Loads of power, efficiently.

[TexasSP]

Got a question while on the subject of 4WD slashes. Are they able to use any standard 2.2 wheel with 12mm hex?

[Bondonutz]

No, The inside wheel diameter needs to be 2.8"+ due to the size of the C-hub and axle carrier.
UNLESS you find some 2.2 rims with a extreme offset ?

Those tires are what's on the 10T, the wheels are 30 series Torque. There are some different 2.2's with full offset that will work. One of which is the narrow RPM crawler wheels.

[Bondonutz]

Of course efficentcy is the name of the game, I'm on 3s and I have more power than I can ever use on the track. I'm blowing buy the other Slashes and 1/8 buggys on the straits now as is.

6s WaaHoo !

http://www.teknorc.com/product_info....8a217800d142dd These seem to be the best offering so far, though they are new, so no real reviews yet, that I've seen. I've heard of quite a few problems with the FLM's.

All the driveshaft problems are what led me to making the Maxxslash, I haven't had any problems with it, and driveshafts. If you could think of some way for a bearing carrier to use cutdown Revo driveshafts, it would be all good.

You want to run 6s with plastic axles ?

That's the only way I see it happening :)

[sikeston34m]

Originally Posted by asheck

http://www.teknorc.com/product_info....8a217800d142dd These seem to be the best offering so far, though they are new, so no real reviews yet, that I've seen. I've heard of quite a few problems with the FLM's.

All the driveshaft problems are what led me to making the Maxxslash, I haven't had any problems with it, and driveshafts. If you could think of some way for a bearing carrier to use cutdown Revo driveshafts, it would be all good. That's the only way I see it happening :)

Aaaah, I see what you're thinking.

In comparing the new driveshafts/carriers to the E Revo ones.

E Revo uses the same outer bearing, but the inner bearing has a 2mm smaller ID on the inner bearing.

I believe there is enough meat on the E Revo shafts to turn off 2mm of diameter and make them fit this bearing.

Hmmmm...........Are the Diff outputs on the Slash 6mm?

This suggestion you made, might be a do-able thing.

Once the E Revo shafts are cut down and made work, how about let's go with some bigger 14mm hexs, then open up our Tire/Wheel choices?

Hmmmm...........Are the Diff outputs on the Slash 6mm?

All it takes are the E-revo outputs. They drop right in. You might look at my Maxxslash thread, it could give you some ideas. But yeah, I would think the 2mm would be doable.