Committed to liquid cooling

[_paralyzed_]

well, git 'r dun

nitro temp gauges would be a relatively easy way to keep an eye on what you are actually accomplishing. just wrap the loop around the heatsink or the can or servo or whatever.

[DrKnow65]

B16, my fault for making the post SOOO long

[DrKnow65]

I have a real nice small temp probe that I use with my fluke meter, I should be able to sneak it into an ESC case or inside a motor that I'll sacrifice for testing the liquid inside theory.

[PBO]

Here's something to look at;



http://www.tcscooling.com/index.html

[DrKnow65]

Thanks PBO, I had e-mailed this company back in the day about their products (specifically the pump) and never get a reply from them.
I guess they were changing ownership or something.

I'll shoot them another E-mail as it seems their site has been updated and maybe someone is running the company again.

[DrKnow65]

Sent TCS an e-mail, we'll see if they respond this time.

P.s. I think they are using the same pump....

[Krawlin]

Just something else to keep in mind if this does work out and you want to improve the system.... a pump capable of moving more liquid volume isn't always better, just look through some high performance engine building forums or 1:1 car forums and you will learn that this is 100% true. If you push the coolant through the motor/engine too quickly, it can't absorb the heat, it just flows through and does very little to actually cool the motor/engine. And considering this is going to be such a tiny system, if you don't get the results you hoped for at first, try to slow the pump down some and see if it does any good. The system boats use is just a simple force fed system, and is rather tunable with water inlet/intake sizes, and adjusting the pump speed essentially does the same thing here, or run some kind of restrictor system.

Sounds like a fun project, would be cool if you managed to pack this into a small and effective enough system to be considered practical.

[DrKnow65]

Yah Krawlin, I actually put a system in my chevelle with a moroso pump that only cycled when the coolant hit 185'f then off again at 160'f. Cured the heating problems I was getting just running a restrictor plate for a t-stat and the standard water pump. It would usually be on for about 15 seconds then off for ~2 minutes at idle. I put the temp switch in a PVC pipe thread adapter from 3/4 to 3/8" in the cylinder head to keep it reading the coolant vs the temp of the head itself. Never got hot running from LA to Vegas in 2-1/2 hours...

Good call on the info though :-)

[lincpimp]

I like your "reverse heatsink" shaped adapter idea for the MMM. I would like to see that item mounted to the al chassis, then the MMM flipped over and stuck to that. That way you get the thermal mass of the al chassis to draw the heat off the esc. Same could be done with the motor, just make a half round motor cradle that contacts the can plenty and attaches to the chassis. Not sure a servo really needs to be cooled? Maybe just a mount setup that clamps to the al center section that most good servos have?

While water collling seems cool I see it as being too complex and finnicky. I do like BrianG's heatpipe idea, and they sound pretty easy to make. And no moving parts either.

[DrKnow65]

Yah, I guess I could do the reverse heat sink machined into the bottom of a sealed aluminum box and put the box on the chassis.
I'd have to come up with some adapters to make the wires come out the right way...

It's an interesting idea Linc

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by DrKnow65

Yah, I guess I could do the reverse heat sink machined into the bottom of a sealed aluminum box and put the box on the chassis.
I'd have to come up with some adapters to make the wires come out the right way...

It's an interesting idea Linc

Seems like al transfers heat pretty well, and the chassis has a large mass and surface area. Air flow under the chassis must help cool it of? Maybe one of our more nitro experienced users could chime in? Since the nitro mill is attached to the chassis via a metal mount (on 1/8 buggies and truggies) heat must transfer? Must help cooling, more metal for the heat to disapate thru?

I do see why you want water cooling, putting the esc in a closed box will require something as no air will be able to circulate around it.

[JAILBIRD]

If you decide to use a motor sleeve, offshore electrics has one for just about any motor out there. Also, Grossi makes a radiator for their liquid cooled engines, but sit down before you check the price! $150 for just the damn radiator!

http://www.grossishop.com/usa/index....&product_id=97

-JB

[BP-Revo]

The only issue I can see with using the chassis as a cooling heatsink, is that the chassis flexes quite a bit during normal running on an offroad vehicle, and this would more than likely lead to problems.

[DrKnow65]

BP-Revo, I figured I could use a thermal tape for connecting to the chassis as it's would give some flex :-)

I got a call this morning from TCS!!! Talked to him a bit about the scenario and he's going to send me some info via e-mail today

This may be a very good thing

[_paralyzed_]

Do you want to be able to submerge your vehicles in water? What is the ultimate goal?