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  (#16)
dabid
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04.24.2006, 11:18 PM

I wouldn't put that much power in a T4, they can be kinda fragile everywhere but the tranny. T2's can go for as little as $60 on ebay, and are built like tanks. I got mine for $30 as a roller missing some screws and the steering bellcrank setup, but it had Lunsford turnbuckles all around at least. I put a few bucks into it, and ran it with a Lehner 5300 for quite a while and had a bunch of fun, still haven't broken anything either......and I don't exactly go easy on it.
   
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Finnster
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04.24.2006, 11:36 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by James
I guess it will be cheaper to get a associated truck. Is a associated truck stronger than the rustler? I could only find the RC10T4. Is hte tranny strong enough in that truck for a feigao 8L on 12 cells? How much faster is a Feigao 8L on 12 cells than a Lehner 3100 on 12 cells.
I don't know about a T4, but I had a T3 and hated it. It was a nice truck except for the flimsy top chassis plate that snapped on every head-on or nose dive landing, even w/ a 19t. My bro in-law had a rustler and its a tank. Handles like one too, but I love this tough truck. I say keep the rusty if you're a basher.
   
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James
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04.25.2006, 08:39 AM

So a T2 would be the best choice?
   
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Rtsbasic
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04.25.2006, 05:28 PM

I would very strongly recommend a T2. Its the most durable stadium truck I've ever owned. I picked my last one up off ebay for $40 and it was a complete roller with MIP cvd's, lunsford turnbuckles, RPM wheels and a Proline shell. Not forgetting it comes with a tub alloy chassis as standard, and is mostly part compatible with the RC10GT..so hobby shop's stock quite a few parts for it.

You can mod the hell out of them too to make them even stronger. RPM make front/rear wishbones & bodyposts, and GPM make some very nice rear arm mounts (hobbyetc had them on sale in the RC10 catagory for $5...$5!! what a price). I've ran my T2 very hard - involving lots of trees, curbs, and a great BMX track. The tranny is very strong - the stock gears are good up to 8-9 cells, beyond that I recommend Robinson Racing alloy ones - idler is $12, diff gear is around $15, and if you can find one a titanium topshaft goes for around $20 (not necessary, but I got one anyway). This tranny I ran on 12 cells with an 8L for a few hours running and its still going good.
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James
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04.25.2006, 07:43 PM

Are T3's as strong? I can get a T3 for $30.
   
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Rtsbasic
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04.25.2006, 07:51 PM

T3's are not as strong, but are still stronger than a T4. They are lighter and handle better than a T2, but don't have its impressive strength (still fairly strong though).
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James
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04.25.2006, 08:09 PM

Does anyone have a T2 they want to sell?
   
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James
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04.25.2006, 09:28 PM

Since i swiched to a different motor, would the rustler work without any tranny upgrades?
   
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MetalMan
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04.25.2006, 10:24 PM

You pretty much need an aluminum idler gear in the transmission no matter what motor you use.


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James
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04.25.2006, 10:33 PM

Im having trouble finding a T2 where can i get an aluminum idler for a T2?
   
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James
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04.25.2006, 10:41 PM

Well i offered a guy on RCU $100 for a T3 with a body, and charger. He said yes. http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=185530 should i do it?
   
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camel_rc
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04.25.2006, 10:49 PM

I'd do a little more shopping around. That radio is a bit outdated, that charger is junk, and those batteries are garbage. I would just start with a rolling chassis and buy the electronics for it.

How about this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/rc10-t3-not-t4_W...QQcmdZViewItem
   
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James
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04.25.2006, 10:57 PM

I didnt buy the electronics. I offered $100 shipped for the roller. Should i tell him $80 shipped

Last edited by James; 04.25.2006 at 10:59 PM.
   
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Finnster
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04.26.2006, 11:30 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by James
I didnt buy the electronics. I offered $100 shipped for the roller. Should i tell him $80 shipped
I really really wouldn't get that truck as a basher, but its up to you. Still to high a price too. As above, I had one and it would snap the upper chassis ($4) plate on even a moderate front end hit. Additionally the plate attaches to the chassis by two raised pegs which also easily break off, and you are out buying a new $25 chassis as well to get it repaired. Not to mention this weakness bends the alu bottom chassis plate, which lives once unbent but eventually strips/snaps.

I had it for quite a while before I got fed up to buy a rustler. Its a tank. I even bought my wife a nice used graphite Losi XXT combo for $100. Its been quite a bit stronger than the T3, and won't take out the chassis if the upper plate snaps. Look for once of these first, or contact me. I have a number of good spare T3 parts (arms, plates, whole tranny, MIPs, loads of tires) that I no longer need if you really decide to go that route.
   
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  (#30)
dabid
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04.26.2006, 01:49 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by James
Im having trouble finding a T2 where can i get an aluminum idler for a T2?
You don't need an alum. idler for a T2, the Rusty is the one that needs that gear. The Stealth tranny in the T2 is darn near bomb proof, super smooth too.
   
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