Fried Lehner 1940? Help!!!

[Serum]

I don't know what went wrong with your 1940, must have been some weird binding in the drivetrain or a manufacturer error. This problem is an isolated issue, this is actually the first 1940 i heard of that fried without an ESC problem.

I would open the can (unscrew the end-bell, not easy, but doable if you make some kind of tool that hooks up to the 8 screws the end-bell has) perhaps the magnet 'exploded' perhaps the copper isolation got swollen by overheating.

[Sower]

Yeah, I'll look into it. Whatever the problem, it's a problem and requires a new motor. I'm looking at nl12's Lehner 2240/10 as a replacement. What do you think about that?

I looked at that motor. It's BIG. I believe that it weighs over a pound.

[captain harlock]

Too big for your application. You're racing and you need a motor that spools up very fast for blistering acceleration. The 2240 is VERY strong, but only if you feed it up with enough cells, and it won't accelerate as fast. Only buy it if you want to make incredible speeds( eventhough, the 1940/1950 is enough for that) get the 2240.

[Sower]

I know it's big, but it's a chance I'm willing to take if it will keep cool under racing conditions. After what happened to my 1940 in a qualifying heat, I'm just really gun shy on going too small. I don't like that it's 6 oz heavier, but I'll do it if it will solve my problem.

The way I see it, I have these options:

Neu 1515
Neu 1521
Lehner 1950
Lehner 2240

The Neu's have the cogging issue, and I'm not sure the 1515 would handle the racing situation based on what happened to my 1940. The Lehner's are impossible to get, but there's the 2240 by nl12 for sale right now with the same KV as my 1940 was. I was happy with that until it fried. Pretty coincidental.

Too big is almost as bad as too small. If the motor is way undergeared, it's going to run hot, which is probably what will happen with the 22 series motor. I'm thinking that you might have a hard time getting enough of a load on that motor in a 12lb truck. My MM and 9XL move a 13lb truck around without problems.

Of course, I've never run one and I'm just guessing.

[Sower]

Hmm, I see. I wonder how much of a load it would need to run efficiently. Am I looking for a "sweet spot" in rpms? I'm using a 4s battery right now.

Sower, I was in the same boat that you are. At first, I figured, the bigger the better; but as I did research I found that this was not true.

Although the better motors can stand undergearing better than the cheapie motors, the general rules still apply. If you undergear it, it will run hotter. What I am concerned about with your situation is that you may not be able to gear it enough to put a proper load on the motor. If you do gear it enough, you might just start breaking things on your truck.

As I said, I really don't know as I've never tried it. I just might turn out to be a great choice, or it could turn out to be an expensive lesson. I have heard of a few guys going to the 1950 and have had success with them, but I don't know how they were running them. Bashing success doesn't necessarily mean success on a track where the running is hard and constant.

I know that you are concerned because you just blew up an expensive motor, but I still think that you should not go wrong with what we know works. With your 12lb truck, it is likely that a 1940 or 1950 will do in a Lehner and for a Neu, the 1515. I just went with a Neu 1512 in my 10lb truggy and all seemed as though it was good.

[Sower]

Right. Well, that's great input - thanks. All I know right now is that my 1940 ran great but it just had too much on it. I felt it was geared pretty good but just not enough of a motor for a race situation. I'm starting to think that for the racing I'm wanting to do the load needs to be taken up by a motor like the 2240. I'm still keeping an open mind, but that's what my gut is telling me.

Anyone else have any insight?

[BrianG]

Well, I thought that I was underloading the MM motor in my CRT.5 but it turned out it was overgeared. And further evidence shows that it really needs a larger motor for better temps even though the thing is so small. This seems to contradict with what AAngel is saying, but I've also overgeared a 10XL (Revo) and it ran fine until I put that silly CD in there.

[captain harlock]

Hey, I've been searching for somebody who would do me a favor and try out the Kontronik Mambo for me. Will you buy that promising motor and tell us how well it's working for ya. It's only for $220, not that much you know. A bit shorter than a 1940, though. It is considered a highend motor, that's for sure...:)

Brian, I was thinking about the .5 tonight. I know it's a light truck, but it still has the 1/8 scale drive train, so to speak. I wonder how something like an 8L will perform in the .5.

Originally Posted by AAngel

Brian, I was thinking about the .5 tonight. I know it's a light truck, but it still has the 1/8 scale drive train, so to speak. I wonder how something like an 8L will perform in the .5.

Brian and I have been talking and we have come to the conclusion that possibly the best motor for the crt.5 is an L sized motor. I an running a 10L in mine now geared for 40mph on 3s and temps are great. Also this little truck is about 4.5lbs rtr with 10L and 3s 4000 lipo.

Bye

captain, I don't know. I've been looking around for a 600-18, but it's kind of pricey. At $220 it's even more pricey. Although I had trouble with my Neu, it's likely going to turn out ok in the end and I think that the Neu will be a better motor. I got the 1512 1.5Y and I paid less for it than the price of either of the Kontronik motors.

Still, curiosity might be the better of me.

[Sower]

As of right now I'm leaning heavily towards the 2240. I will decide tomorrow. :027: