Elektri-Clutch in a 1/8 Buggy

[Matthew_Armeni]

Originally Posted by jhautz

I have been playing with a new setup for my Xray XB8 buggy using the Elektri-Clucth from the Tekno Revo conversion kit. A few pictures below of what I have so far.

I am using the M2C 3 shoe aluminum clutch setup that I turned the flywheel down to the same diameter as the clutch bell so I could get to the motor screws to tighten them. (please forgive the 2 different motor mount screws. Its just was was handy on the workbench at the moment. I'll fix it before I actually run it.) The dif has been flipped from the normal setup so the clutch bell can run next to the center diff housing. I used some spacers under the center dif mounts so the spur would clear the chassis. The other challenge is the motor clearing the brake disk and calipers. I am using a 48T spur so I get a couple extra MM of clearance and I still cant get less than a 18T clutch bell and still clear the disk. (see the picture below showing the disk/motor clearance) That means I will need a really low KV motor to gear it for track speeds of only around 35mph. I had a 1940/7 that I am going to change to star configuration and run it as a 1940/12 (1300kv approx).

I still need to come up with a servo mount for the mechanical brake, but I think I have a couple ideas on how to do it. (Thanks for the advice Mike)

Here are some pictures posted of the setup as it is right now. I'm still playiong with it and will probably make some adjustents still before it ready to run, but i thought I would post this up and see if anyone had any input on other ways to possibly set this up. I'm trying to keep it simple for now. I just want to see if the clutch helps make it easier to drive on the track. I always seem to have thm most trouble comming out of turns and hitting the throttle to hard and spinning out or just loosing traction. I'm hoping this will make it a little more forgiving. That and it just seems like an interesting idea I wanted to play with.

Let me know what you think so far.

In this picture i looks like your clutch bell is too far away from your flywheel, not all of the clutch shoe will be in contact with the bell. You should install a shim behind the flywheel and collet to move it forward, I had to do this on my Revo conversion. Looks really good, I like the RCM mount idea, I may try that on my 8ight because its diff is already facing that way.

[riceman]

I'm running carbon shoes. Half a dozen packs through and no issues as of yet. I think my springs are a bit heavy as well and was considering going to lighter springs. I think I may try just removing one first to see how that works.

VERY cool. Maybe you guys can make "kits" of all that one needs to make it fly on popular kits...

DM

Yeah, id buy one

It looks grate!

[rchippie]

That looks really good.

[IBJAMMIN]

Very interesting a clutch could also help eliminate cogging by reducing the load at start on the motor?

Q does the adapter have a STD 2 pin configuation so you can try different style clutches?

I would be very interested in trying this out in my CRT with the 1515 Neu and MM esc to see if it will eliminate the cogging issue?

I was looking at your pic and how you used a bell crank to work the brakes and it seemed a little complicated you can eliminate it by redrilling the holes on the brake cam and moving the brake arms you can push 1 side and pull the other see pic. :)

[jhautz]

The adapter is just a shaft like a nitro engine output shaft that goes on the motor shaft with a set screw like apinion gear. You can mount whatever traxxas compatable flywheel you want on it. Mine happens to be 3 pin/shoe style clutch from M2C, but a standard Revo 2 pin/shoe flywheel also works. Mike sells a small diameter 2 shoe traxxas flywheel for this made to work in this type of application.

As far as the cogging... The Tekno RC revo conversion uses this setup with a MM and a Neu in a Revo and they have poven it to make a the cogging issue a non-factor. But to me I still wish Castle would fix thMM software. They have been saying they will ever since the MM was released. Typical CC... All talk and no action.

I like the push/pull idea IBJammin... I did think of pushing one side and pulling the other but not in that simple config. I didnt go the push pull route cuz I was hesitant to try pushing one of those skinny little rods. I wasnt sure if it would be consistant.

I will probably stick with this setup cuz its done already and it seems to work pretty well. I have 4x7 bearings in the middle of the cam lever riding on a 4mm screw and it is very smooth. When I disconnect the linkages and spin the lever it spinns like a wheel with very little drag so I dont feel like I'm loosing much energy in the mechanics. Although your idea would probably be more efficiant even if its just a little. I'll make that plan B. If this doesnt work out. It would be an easy change to make. Thanks for the sugestion

[IBJAMMIN]

I too am tired of waiting for the elusive MM update and this might be the answer I need to look into it and see how hard it will be to get the disc brakes back in there and fit the longer clutch unit in my CRT? I wasn't very happy with the motor braking anyway and wanted to put the brakes back in for more consitant braking and to get the brake bias back. :)

If you dont like to push it you can stack them both on the same side and pull them or use 1 rod for both brake arms? no prob I understand if it works why change it.

[gizzmo79]

Hi
where did you buy the clutch?

[jhautz]

Originally Posted by gizzmo79

Hi
where did you buy the clutch?

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=TKR40010
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=TKR40010F