RC8 Brushless

[Thunderbruiser]

that is a very nice ride there...

[Sparky]

I have reinstalled the old mechanical brakes back on the front. I have test driven it around on the street. It's awesome. The MGM controller is not consistant in braking. That is why I went back to the mechanical brakes on front. It also gives me braking bias. The back is controled from the ESC. I'm also installing a smaller motor Neu 1509/1.5Y. It's too fast @ 22.2 volt. The smaller motor will be lighter and just as fast as this one at 14 volts. I will post a new picture soon. I will let you know how it turns out.

[skellyo]

Originally Posted by Sparky

I have reinstalled the old mechanical breaks back on the front. I have test driven it around on the street. It's awesome. The MGM controller is not consistant in braking. That is why I went back to the mechanical breaks on front. It also gives me braking bis. The back is controled from the ESC. I'm also installing a smaller motor Neu 1509/1.5Y. It's too fast @ 22.2 volt. The smaller motor will be lighter and just as fast as this one at 14 volts. I will post a new picture soon. I will let you know how it turns out.

Huh? How do you figure that your motor brakes only control the rear wheels of the vehicle?

[Sparky]

Ok, maybe I wasn’t clear. The ESC brakes both front and rear. I set the ESC to light breaking. Then you can put more braking on the front with the servo mechanical brake. That gives you braking bias front vs. back.

Very clean lay out, hope mine comes out as nice.

any pic's with the front brakes?

[skellyo]

Originally Posted by Sparky

Ok, maybe I wasn’t clear. The ESC breaks both front and rear. I set the ESC to light breaking. Then you can put more breaking on the front with the servo mechanical break. That gives you breaking bias front vs. back.

Ah, I understand now.

[Sparky]

Here is a photo of the front brakes that I installed.
I used a Futaba S3155 Digital HS Slim Servo.
So far it's working great.You must have brake mixing on your radio.
I would have installed the rear also, but the brake disk and the motor hit each other.

Looks good, thats a very clean looking setup

[Sparky]

Ok, here are my final thoughts after 6 weeks of testing. I probably will not do anymore updates on this thread. I might post a video if I can get it together.

The batteries are the right size and weight for my car “4000mah 6S 22.2 volts”. I had one Maxamps battery fail. It got damaged from not having a full bumper plate on the front side of the battery when a car endos. Make sure you completely support your batteries. Maxamps batteries are not the toughest. I plan on continuing using these batteries. The battery temp was 98F after a 20 to 25 min run

The MGM controller is adequate. It’s not the best performing controller, but right now there is no other that meets the specifications for this application. The breaking and neutral zone are inconsistent and a little hard to control. It is not a professional level controller. It’s a good sportsman class controller. I will be very competitive with it. I’m still looking for a better controlling ESC or a software patch for this one. The ESC temp was 140F after a 20 to 25min run.

The Neu motor is very good. Probably the best part of the conversion. At first I thought it was too fast. It is to fast until you change your throttle EPA “End Point Adjuster” down to around 80%. I would not use a smaller motor because this one heats up after 25min of run time. It’s very fast for a short time and will run at 1.39hp continuous use. If you start running longer the 30min you might run into heating problems with this motor. It’s a great motor and I will continue using this motor. My gearing end up at 15/46. The motor “Neu 1512 2.5df” temp was 165F after 20 to 25min run.

The RC Monster conversion kit was very good. The servo tray took a little grinding to make it fit. You will need a Dremel for this project, especially for making the ESC and brake mounts.

Final word. This type of project is not for the faint of heart. It takes a lot of work.
It just might be easer to run Nitro. In the future there will be more complete kits. This is probably worth waiting for if you are not into doing a big expensive project. Now that it is done, I’m really going to enjoy it. It’s been a fun experience for me and I’m happy with the results.

Ref info

http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/sh...5&goto=newpost

[Sparky]

RC8 Brushless Video!

Sorry, the lighting was not good.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=B04N35U_ZOc


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Car looked very neutral, and your driving isn't that bad!

What weights are you running in your diffs?

[Takedown]

Sparky I have to admit. Im not a big associated, RC8 fan since Losi is my favorite company but wow this is an acception. Great job!

[Sparky]

Diffs are 5000/5000/5000

Originally Posted by Sparky

The MGM controller is adequate. It’s not the best performing controller, but right now there is no other that meets the specifications for this application. The breaking and neutral zone are inconsistent and a little hard to control. It is not a professional level controller. It’s a good sportsman class controller. I will be very competitive with it. I’m still looking for a better controlling ESC or a software patch for this one. The ESC temp was 140F after a 20 to 25min run.

The Neu motor is very good. Probably the best part of the conversion. At first I thought it was too fast. It is to fast until you change your throttle EPA “End Point Adjuster” down to around 80%. I would not use a smaller motor because this one heats up after 25min of run time. It’s very fast for a short time and will run at 1.39hp continuous use. If you start running longer the 30min you might run into heating problems with this motor. It’s a great motor and I will continue using this motor. My gearing end up at 15/46. The motor “Neu 1512 2.5df” temp was 165F after 20 to 25min run.

http://2coolfishing.com/ttmbforum/sh...5&goto=newpost

Very Nice

Wouldn't the esc and motor run cooler if the motor was at full throttle? So wouldn't a slower motor work better?