CRT.5 conversion Need advice

[phatmonk]

I tried the BCE chassis also.I thought the servo was a little to close to the end of my 7l fiegao.Nice battery harness.

[GO-RIDE.com]

Originally Posted by dark96

looks nice. but i ran a 5700 for a while, and it was get`n a bit hotter on my 3s lipo. so i ended up get`n a 8L and will hopefully be get`n to try it out this weekend on the track

What pinion are you using with the 5700 on 3S? Even with a 12T that would be a 50+mph car with the stock tires. I can see why that would run hot.

Let us know what you think of the 8L vs the 5700. I'm mostly interested in handling differences. I'd like to go 8L or 9L on 3S for the punch, but I don't want to loose the smooth handling my GTB/6.5 has at my local indoor track.

[BrianG]

I was running the 4600 on 2s and the ESC and motor got too warm for my liking even geared 46/12. IMO, this truck needs a real "S" size motor, or an L...

[GO-RIDE.com]

Originally Posted by BrianG

I was running the 4600 on 2s and the ESC and motor got too warm for my liking even geared 46/12. IMO, this truck needs a real "S" size motor, or an L...

Hey Brian, would you give me some examples of a "real S size" motor. Would my Novak 6.5 be a real S size? It runs great in my truck at the local indoor clay track, but it I'd like to get more punch for the jumps. From what I've read an L can seems a bit much, on the track, for the 5 pound crt.5, but if I could find something better than my Novak 6.5 I'd consider it.

Thanks for the help!

[BrianG]

The Feigao S is a real S motor. For one thing, the MM motors are 6mm shorter than an S can. Second, the MM motors have shorter windings (internally) to make room for the connection between the windings and the noodle wires that go outside the can. So, the MM motor is more like a sub-S motor if there were such a thing.

I really don't know the length of the Novaks, but they have the sensor area, so that takes away some room for the windings. IIRC, they's probably midway between an S and an L coil-wise. Also, I believe the Novaks use a smaller 380 size rotor (anyone want to confirm?). The 6.5 could probably benefit from higher voltage like 3s or 4s, so if you are running just 2s that may be the cause of the lack of punch you are experiencing. You could also be overgeared to compensate for lack of rpm...

[GO-RIDE.com]

Thanks for the info. I'm running 46/12 gearing with the 6.5 and smallish 2.2 truck tires (3.8"). I tried a 46/13 for kicks and lost more punch, plus it was still gaining speed at the end of the straight. Maybe I need to try an 11 or 10 tooth pinion. I don't think the Novak 6.5 could handle 3S. It is rated at 6400kv. The GTB/6.5 I have is not the HV system.

I'd like to get a MM system and a S or L can Feigao to run on 3S, but I'm not sure if it will really be an upgrade (at the track) from my Novak system.

[Shark413]

Updates:

Still waiting for servo saver arm and extended chassis, but I added a center plate and mounted the ESC and RX to it. It's hard to tell, but the plate is bent at both ends so the ESC and RX sits lower for more clearence and better cg placement.

GO-RIDE: i went sold my 5700 a while back, and got me an ammo brushless 2600kv motor. had it geared up to 19t and it ran pretty well. the track that i normally run on is rather harsh in terms of really able to get on the throttle, but it isnt bad w/ that ammo brushless. but if the weather gets better and i take it to the track i'll tell ya how that 8L works for me. but i went w/ the ofna ext. chassis and some truck size bowties instead of the stock buggy one, and man talk bout such better handling, although i sorta stoled riceman's idea for the tire and wheels from this post http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9200 something bout the low profile wheels and tires just look awesome.

sHARK413: just curious where did u get the piece of alu to make ur top plate and battery holder?

[Shark413]

dark96, the battery tray is 6061 aluminum which I got fron Onlinemetals.com and the top plate is a softer alloy (non-weight bearing piece, easier to bend) that I got at the local hardware store. Onlinemetals is pretty cool, because you can get almost any type of metal (aluminum 2024, 6061, 7075, titanium, brass, steel, plastic) in all kinds of shapes and no minimum order plus they cut to any size.

[Arct1k]

Just wondering as an alternative to the prolines - Would these work? They look like the wide rims and low profile 2.8s.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXKMJ2&P=FR

[lincpimp]

Yep, jato rear wheels and tires work great on the crt.5. I used a set of the on road anaconda tires on my first crt.5. They are about as tall as the truck wheels and tires, IIRC.

ya just like lincpimp says. the rears will work. i went the w/ bowties cause the work well on the track i run on.

[Shark413]

Look what showed up today. The Jammin extended chassis kit and a servo saver parts kit arrived, now I can complete the project. I compared the stock chassis, a BCE chassis and the Jammin extended chassis, check the pictures. The BCE is just a tad longer than stock the Extended chassis is 15mm or so longer and wider. I have a Jammin CRT.5 wheel next to my Kyosho ST-RR 1/8 truggy wheel.


Parts are here.


Stock, BCE and Jammin extended


Extended chassis is longer and wider


Jammin CRT.5 wheel next to my Kyosho ST-RR truggy wheel.

[jhautz]

Wow that Jammin extended chassis is quite a bit wider as well. Probably could almost lay the lipos don flat on the chassis for a lower cog.

How much heavier is the Jammin extended vs the stock Jammin chassis?

[Shark413]

jhautz, the chassis is wider but when laying down the battery it still hangs over the side of the chassis. Which means the body won't fit without bowing out and makes it vuneralble to a side impact hit.

I weighted the chassis and here is what my trusty digital postal scale came up with:

Stock chassis (bare) = 5 oz
BCE chassis (bare) = 5.8 oz
Extended Jammin chassis (bare) = 7.2 oz