Another FLM Conversion Build-Help

Also, for those who have asked about the electronics I'm using, here is the list:
Steering-Hitec 5955TG
Brake-Hitec 645MG
Reverse-Hitec HS-81
ESC-MGM 22418
Motor-Neu 1521/1Y (1577Kv)
Battery-Neu 6S 5000mah and Flightpower 6S 5000mah (both fit!)
Radio and receiver are the Futaba Fasst 2.4Ghz 3 channel.
The tranny is a 3 speed with the plastic 44t gear replaced with a hardened steel Hot Racing gear. Diffs are the aluminum case ones with steel pin inserts. Ring and pinion are the new HPI ultra hardened steel (#86922). Starting out with a 52/20 spur-pinion ratio and working from there.

[jnev]

You really went all out on this one, didn't you. It is looking great so far!! Nice job. Is it possible to run a full sized servo for reverse, or does only a mini servo fit? Also, what are the dimensions of the Neu and Flightpower 6s 5000mAH packs? Is it a really tight fit? Or is it possible to run an even bigger pack?

Thanks in advance for the answers.

Originally Posted by jnev

You really went all out on this one, didn't you. It is looking great so far!! Nice job. Is it possible to run a full sized servo for reverse, or does only a mini servo fit? Also, what are the dimensions of the Neu and Flightpower 6s 5000mAH packs? Is it a really tight fit? Or is it possible to run an even bigger pack?

Thanks in advance for the answers.

I know the FP's are pretty small because there 1P.... theres only 6 cells in the whole pack


This is like my dream savage....... How I wish I had money lol

[Serum]

I think there are a few solutions for your problem;

one is to turn the motor so the wires face down, they solder on 4 (or 5.5's if they would fit) and solder them through their 90 degree hole. ( the 5.5's i've got have got holes through them at 90 degree) then use plastidip to seal them. the 4mm plugs (short types) would give you more room to start with.

Serum, what I think I will end up doing is going to the LST shock conversion. With 8 of the stock type shocks, there is not enough room up top for the ESC. One LST shock mounted behind the rear tower will free up room.

Here are the max battery fit dimensions, as best I can measure:173mmX52mmX65mm. If your pack is under or at those dimensions it should fit.

And believe me, a micro servo is all that will fit.

OK, finally got a good fit in the original ESC plate position. Used 5.5mm connectors and ran the wires under the plate. Everything is secure and its not as tight a fit as it looks. There is plenty of room between the caps and the motor (about 2 rch). Going to run the whole thing this evening and see how it goes. Oh, the padding under the ESC heatsink is some thermal CPU tape.

It looks really good. I'm uploading pictures of my build now. I wont be able to run mine yet because I am waiting on the bullet connectors for the ESC. What do you think about the battery stops? I am concerned that with the packs (we have the same flightpowers) the little black ones will dig into and damage the battery during bashing. They do a good job of holding the battery snug though. I think I am going to make some sort of plate to attach to the forward most battery post to make a solid barrier. Keep us posted on how your run goes.

[jhautz]

I agree on the battery stops. I will be making some sort of plate for the front stop also. I can see nose diving a landing and having the lipo slam into the spur.... Not good. All the other stops I think will be fine.

As for not running until you get the connectors... I think I would direct solder the wires if that was the only thing stoping me from a test run.

knotted,

I did some searching on thermal CPU tape. I was going to zip tie my heatsink directly to the mount because I liked the idea of the aluminum acting as a heatsink. Does this thermal CPU tape melt to the ESC? It sounds like a great idea allowing good heat transfer, better mounting and maybe a little cushion.

Please let me know how that works out.

You probably don't need the tape, but it just bothers me to put the ESC on with no padding. I figured if some padding is used it might as well transfer heat. There is almost no melting of the tape, the MGM never really gets hot enough. The heat sink fins just settle down into the tape a little bit and then stop. This helps keep the ESC in place a bit more securely. I have been using it this way on all my setups for about a year now and it works well.

For the battery stops, I am not sure what to do! Maybe a little foam rubber added to the stops? I hate to think of my $300 batteries buzz sawing into the steel spur!

[RC-Stadium.com]

Hi,

I bought an Hitec HS-82MG micro servo for my reverse module but It's too long for the FLM reverse servo mount. Your HS-81MG has the same size as the HS-82MG. How do you mount it?

Thank.

[Savage03]

Here is my battery stop I made, simple used some scrap CF I had and used 2 extra mounts from the FLM kit help up so far.

Hey man looks great :)
it looks very tight, but you may be able to squeeze that esc inside the tvp like mine - I have screwed it to the tvp with the threaded holes already existing in the heatsink.. Although my esc may be smaller and my motor clearly shorter...


but I have more room in there than you :)

[Savage03]

nice setup there. The mamba is a big esc for sure and yours looks small in there. The lipo im using tho fits fine and I can fit a longer one easily and maybe a tad wider would fit to. If I get creative one day might find a better spot of the esc. Been told myt lipo isnt a good choice so now when $$ permit I need a new one I guess