My e-revo brushless edition build

[mistercrash]

Originally Posted by Urgeoner

nice stand does it help with work or just for killing time?

The stand is good to work on the truck but not with the motor running, unless you set the thing on a small round table to walk around while wrenching

[mistercrash]

So I couldn't wait until I got a new body to run my ERBE. I decided to use my Baja Bug body but I wanted to use the rear wing so I cut the rear engine area of the body accordingly to fit over the wing mount and I kept the part I cut off (engine) and trimmed it to fit inside the wing mount. I used dabs of GOOP to hold it in place and it surprised me how strong it holds. It looks a bit better than to have just a big gaping hole back there. This body is so much tougher than the flimsy Lexan used on the original ERBE body. It's all scratched and dirty already And the bigger the wheels, the better the truck looks with that body IMO.

[shaunjohnson]

copy me then
i got hte bug body the day they came out for my revo.
soo cool, i also run a wing so i removed the engine area all together.
BE WARNED!! the rear body mount posts will pull through if you dont re-enforce it now!!

mine did this so i have fixed the problem with some roofing iorn

umm...you got the short wheelbase body didnt you...
cause that body is too short...oh wait hang on...isnt the E-revo chassis longer than the 3.3?

[jasje]

wow mistercrash, that list on the previous page is an impressive list of hop-ups and I'm sure I'll have fun this winter with copying some of your mods. My revo needs some attention because I haven't run it since I had my xt8 truggy, but it will keep me occupied this winter ;-)

[mistercrash]

Originally Posted by shaunjohnson

copy me then
i got hte bug body the day they came out for my revo.
soo cool, i also run a wing so i removed the engine area all together.
BE WARNED!! the rear body mount posts will pull through if you dont re-enforce it now!!

mine did this so i have fixed the problem with some roofing iorn

umm...you got the short wheelbase body didnt you...
cause that body is too short...oh wait hang on...isnt the E-revo chassis longer than the 3.3?

I plan on reinforcing the area where the rear body posts stick out, you're the third or fourth person to suggest I do this so it must be a weak point. No I got the 3.3 extended version and yes it looks short because the ERevo is longer than the 3.3.

[shaunjohnson]

the body has a lot of work to do dosent it.
and i look at these nitro guys not running a body (cause of the starting ease without one) and shake my head. no wonder their cars get broken so often...noobs.

a body is even more important for converted revo's with soft case lipo's.
road rash on a lipo is the quickest way to turn a 6s pack into a 4s LOL

[mistercrash]

Geez people were not kidding when saying the back end of the Baja Bug body was weak, right in that bend around the flat spot where the body posts stick through. Just a couple tumbles and it's cracked already. That is what I would call a major flaw on that body. Disappointing to say the least. I did the best I could to repair it and hope it holds but I wonder. I am not going to show a pic because I am a shamed of that repair, it looks like crap

[Bondonutz]

Couple layers of scrap lexan and some shoe-goo and good as new. Who cares what a repair thats underside the body looks like, long as it strong and lasts.

[shaunjohnson]

like i said...
i actually cut out the entire rear section, only leaving that vertical wall where the carbon fiber sticker goes....

then i used some washers and pop rivets to fasten a piece of bent roofing iorn to it. the washers spread out the force a bit.

overkill i know but i broke my first one where i did the same thing but with lexan.

hope you can re-enforce it somehow ;)
maby my method but do it on the inside of the body so you cant see it and leave the existing plastic there...just double it up, pop rivets look nice with washers too

[mistercrash]

I'm having a little fun with my CBA II Battery Analyzer right now, I just analyzed a pair of NEU 5500 mah 2S lipos. From the results, it seems one of the packs (black graph) is failing me. And what do you think of the other one (red graph).

NEU #1 (in black)
Discharge rate: 10 A
Starting voltage: 8.36 V
Ending Voltage: 6.00 V
Total Time: 28 min. 48 sec.
Tested Capacity: 4796 mah

Neu #2 (in red)
Discharge rate: 10 A
Starting voltage: 8.43 V
Ending Voltage: 6.00 V
Total Time: 31 min. 56 sec.
Tested Capacity: 5314 mah

[mistercrash]

I just tested two Turnigy 5000 mah 2S packs and here are the results.

Turnigy #A1 (in black)
Discharge rate: 10 A
Starting voltage: 8.44 V
Ending Voltage: 6.00 V
Total Time: 30 min.
Tested Capacity: 4996 mah

Turnigy #A2 (in black)
Discharge rate: 10 A
Starting voltage: 8.44 V
Ending Voltage: 6.00 V
Total Time: 30 min. 29 sec.
Tested Capacity: 5076 mah



Here are the Turnigy graphs and NEU graphs overlaid for comparison.



These NEU and Turnigy lipos were not bought at the same time but they have similar use, the NEU lipos have 11 cycles more on them than the Turnigys. After the test, the Turnigys got recharged at ''store'' setting on my CellPro 10S with no problems. The NEU packs would not take a charge on the CellPro. I had to wake them up shall I say on my MRC 989, charging at 1 amp until they had about 1300 mah back in them and then switched to the CellPro and only then would they take a charge at the ''store'' setting. I'm a little bit disappointed at these NEU packs. Actually I'm very disappointed.

Any comments suggesting that the tests are bogus are welcomed
And please don't take this as a ''cheap lipos are just as good as expensive lipos''. This is not what it's about, I started using this CBA II thingy with the NEU lipos and I was surprised at their performance. So I thought I would try the Turnigys after, being a little bit afraid of what their performance might be. What can explain this? These lipos were used in the same truck, same gearing and settings, same racing and bashing conditions.

[suicideneil]

What was the C rating on the turnigys & neus?

Suprizing results really, but secretly Im not that suprised, rather happy actually. I believe back in the mists of time it was said that the older neu packs did tend to run warmer and not qive quite as much punch- looking at those graphs, it kinda looks about right (higher IR resulting in lower voltage output). Im no expert on this thing really, just say it as I see it & here it. Would be nice to see a test done with some various other packs like TPs and flightmax & rhino lipos from hobbycity, to see how the bigboys do & to identify the best performing cells/ brand within the hobbycity arena.

All donations to be sent to MC, who will kindly test them and return them afterwards...

[mistercrash]

First time I hear about the older NEUs running hotter. The NEUs are not that much older than those Turnigys. The C rating was 25C constant for the NEUs and 20C constant for the Turnigys. The NEUs show an IR which is double of what the Turnigys have. That's what I see on my CellPro, I know it doesn't have the most precise way of measuring the IR of each cell but even so, don't need much precision to figure out that there's a big difference between 2.1 and 4.3. I plan on getting some Thunder Power and Hyperion lipos at the end of winter. But it makes no sense to get them now and have them sit for three or four months because I don't use my RCs very much in the snow. In the meantime, if anyone wants me to run their lipos on this thing, sure I will I'll send them back with a copy of the test results. I might get this accessory to go with the CBA II and start puffing the really bad cells It lets you test at up to 500 watts continuous. You can test at up to 1000 watts continuous if you use two.

[mistercrash]

I tested the other pair of Turnigys I have and overlaid the graphs of all four Turnigys. It's pretty consistant.

[rawfuls]

Woo, so the packs are pretty reliable, I'm glad I bought em :]