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zeropointbug
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06.01.2007, 02:51 AM

So Metalman, was this with a few caps into your MM then? So it made a difference for you too then?

BTW, I was looking at my burnt up Quark, and noticed that the two negative leads on the two caps are broke, so there would be no connection. I am wondering if this had anything to do with it cogging (probably), but whether that would cause it to start on fire? :032:


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zeropointbug
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06.01.2007, 02:52 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by wallot
I know:005:
Cool temps huh. :005:


“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
   
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wallot
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06.01.2007, 04:29 AM

i have to still measure the heatsink temp (always forget) but since the glue mod the quark itself is nicely hot


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BrianG
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06.01.2007, 09:52 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropointbug
So Metalman, was this with a few caps into your MM then? So it made a difference for you too then?

BTW, I was looking at my burnt up Quark, and noticed that the two negative leads on the two caps are broke, so there would be no connection. I am wondering if this had anything to do with it cogging (probably), but whether that would cause it to start on fire? :032:
Wow, the caps effectively not being there could certainly cause the cogging. But, I think the burnt FETs was caused by the extreme currents during the cogging. A domino effect...
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AAngel
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06.01.2007, 11:47 AM

MetalMan, did the cogging problem get better as you increased the timing? The little note that came with my 1512 1.5Y says that the Neu is a four pole motor and it advises you to use "mild" timing. I'm sure that they are talking about helicopter controllers, so I'm wondering if helicopter controllers use the same timing curves as car controllers.

I first set my timing to lowest and cogging was rather nasty. I bumped it up to normal and it got better. I'm wondering if going to highest will be even better, but don't want to hurt my motor.

BTW, did you hardwire the motor? I'm using 5.5mm connectors, but will hardwire if it will make a difference.
   
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Serum
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06.01.2007, 12:08 PM

I think i might have some matching shoes for the truck now.. :p
   
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zeropointbug
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06.01.2007, 12:56 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG
Wow, the caps effectively not being there could certainly cause the cogging. But, I think the burnt FETs was caused by the extreme currents during the cogging. A domino effect...
Yeah, and maybe the cap I had on there (10,000uF, 25v) was not good enough for the Quark then? I was looking closer at the caps leads, I can't tell if they are melted off, or broken off, this doesn't make any sense?! :032:


“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
   
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AAngel
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06.01.2007, 01:13 PM

zpb, I really believe that they is a string of Quarks that just weren't built properly. It's just odd that so many have had good luck with theirs, but ours have crapped out the way that they did.
   
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zeropointbug
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06.01.2007, 01:34 PM

Yeah, I agree, I had a couple of solder joints that were near cold solders.

I really don't want any controller other than the Quark, but if this keeps up... I might just snatch up a MM.


“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
   
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AAngel
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06.01.2007, 01:50 PM

Well, I do have my Compro 16016 coming back soon. Like I said, it does appear to be built better than the Quark. I'm hoping that my new Compro doesn't have any issues.

From the experience that I had with the Compro, it is a nice controller and runs COOL.
   
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bdebde
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06.01.2007, 03:18 PM

Think my problem
here
could be cap realated
   
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suicideneil
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06.01.2007, 03:56 PM

How many people on here use the compro escs? The look rather good, and arent too unreasonable price wize. As for brake fading issues- that sucks, but I guess it is asking alot for the motor to be a powerful brake too- something to be said for mech brakes afterall, even if they do take up space/weight....
   
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MetalMan
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06.01.2007, 04:00 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropointbug
So Metalman, was this with a few caps into your MM then? So it made a difference for you too then?
It was with 4 caps. I haven't compared the performance with/without caps on the current 14/44 gearing, but I could. So, I don't currently know what the difference is. Although, the fan on the MM stopped spinning, and the MM was running very cool (118).

Quote:
Originally Posted by AAngel
MetalMan, did the cogging problem get better as you increased the timing? The little note that came with my 1512 1.5Y says that the Neu is a four pole motor and it advises you to use "mild" timing. I'm sure that they are talking about helicopter controllers, so I'm wondering if helicopter controllers use the same timing curves as car controllers.

I first set my timing to lowest and cogging was rather nasty. I bumped it up to normal and it got better. I'm wondering if going to highest will be even better, but don't want to hurt my motor.

BTW, did you hardwire the motor? I'm using 5.5mm connectors, but will hardwire if it will make a difference.
I didn't have time to play with any settings at the track yesterday. My Revo had a problem that took a while to fix, and then the servo's wire ripped on the Hyper 8, then the heatsink on the Revo's MM came off, then I swapped the Revo's servo into the Hyper 8, and the Hyper 8's battery dumped. And then it was time to go home. Next time I can play around with the settings on the Hyper 8 and see if timing or startup power have any significant effects. The motor is hardwired.

If I were you, I wouldn't worry about setting the MM's startup power to high, considering how cool my MM was at the end of the run. Yours wouldn't be much warmer, I imagine.

When the heatsink came off of the Revo's MM, it did it very cleanly. None of the FETs were damaged, the epoxy just came apart. I plan on using some of the Arctic Aluminuma or whatever from the local computer place.


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  (#374)
AAngel
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06.01.2007, 06:21 PM

MetalMan, I was talking about increasing the motor timing on the esc to see if the Neu would cog any less. My cogging is pretty bad at times. Sometimes it doesn't cog at all, but when it does, it really does.

I've had the sink pop off of a couple of my MMs. I suppose it'll do that with the right shock. I just used arctic alumina to put it back on.

Do you feel that the hardwiring helped anything?
   
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AAngel
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06.01.2007, 06:39 PM

zpb, yes I am getting cogging. Sometimes it's so bad it's embarrassing. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all. I wouldn't consider the setup race worthy, although you can definitely bash with it. Once it's rolling it's fine. If you come to a complete stop, getting going again is iffy. If you are at a complete stop and there is any resistance in your path, forget about getting going again.
   
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