brushless 1/5 4wd conversion about to begin! couple questions.

[Ryu James]

i am gonna harden these gears tomorrow. do i use normal or synthetic oil? or does it matter?

[redshift]

(metallurgy) Animal, vegetable, or mineral oil, such as fish oil, cottonseed oil, or lard, used in quenching baths for carbon and alloy steels; removes heat from the steel more slowly and uniformly than water.

As long as it has a high flashpoint, I don't know how much it matters. I think normally it's between 40 and 90 weight standard oil. But they do sell dedicated products if you want to be particular.

It is critical that you shove the part into the oil in one quick motion, or else you may end up with one side harder than the other.

Looking great man!

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by redshift

(metallurgy) Animal, vegetable, or mineral oil, such as fish oil, cottonseed oil, or lard, used in quenching baths for carbon and alloy steels; removes heat from the steel more slowly and uniformly than water.

As long as it has a high flashpoint, I don't know how much it matters. I think normally it's between 40 and 90 weight standard oil. But they do sell dedicated products if you want to be particular.

It is critical that you shove the part into the oil in one quick motion, or else you may end up with one side harder than the other.

Looking great man!

thanks for the tips Redshift.

so this morn i went to Jiffylube and they gave me some used conventional motor oil. it was pure black. went to cnc shop, fired up the torch, got the gears cherry red, and quenched them. it was sweet!! smoke and bubbling like crazy. they turned out great. my gears look just like the ones from RCM now. black instead of the pretty silver like they were. but like Kaz my drive shaft doesnt fit in the reamed area of the gear now. need to dremel out a bit and it will be fine.

also, today i left all my aluminum hubs and the integy disc brakes with my CNC. i am having the hubs customized so that the disc brakes mount up with a "factory like" fit. after the hubs are done, everything thats left to do on the kit i can do in my garage.

i am going to try to get everything else done on the truck while the hubs are at the CNC. should have some pics of mounted motor, esc, and servos soon.

[redshift]

I've never actually quenched anything, just seen it done many times (I'm not a blacksmith but I play one on RCM) but I have a bit of exp with air-hardening steel.

"today i left all my aluminum hubs and the integy disc brakes with my CNC"

I sure hope someone told the machine what to do with them.

Not long now!

[Ryu James]

hey kaz, or anyone else with a rampage,
no matter how much i try to keep my diffs sealed tight they continue to leak diff fluid. and i am not even driving this thing yet!! if the diffs leak when its just sitting around whats gonna happend when they are spinning at 10,000rpm?? i have tried new diff cases and it still happens. it seems it must be a rampage thing. i am just wondering if anyone else has had this issues and if anyone knows what would fix it? thanks.

[brushlessboy16]

What you can try to do is get like 800 grit sand paper. tape it down to a solid table and run the diff case across it to deck the top and ensure a good seal.. Im not sure how the rampage diffs are but you might want to try making your own gaskets. Auto parts stores sell gasket material but the compressed paperboard of your average cereal box is enough to hold in silicone oil.


just a thought :)

[aqwut]

Originally Posted by Ryu James

hey kaz, or anyone else with a rampage,
no matter how much i try to keep my diffs sealed tight they continue to leak diff fluid. and i am not even driving this thing yet!! if the diffs leak when its just sitting around whats gonna happend when they are spinning at 10,000rpm?? i have tried new diff cases and it still happens. it seems it must be a rampage thing. i am just wondering if anyone else has had this issues and if anyone knows what would fix it? thanks.

Yeah, that's a weakness for the rampage... there is an upgrade kit somewhere.. ..

[KaztheMinotaur]

I've never had problems with my diffs leaking. Do you have the little rubber o-rings arounds the output shafts? Is it leaking from the output shafts or around the ring gear? The upgrade kit has thicker output shafts...they were breaking around the pin.

I'll get my motor mounts tomorow!

I think I will clean up my hobby room tomorrow morning so I have a nice place to start the Rampage build.

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by KaztheMinotaur

I've never had problems with my diffs leaking. Do you have the little rubber o-rings arounds the output shafts? Is it leaking from the output shafts or around the ring gear? The upgrade kit has thicker output shafts...they were breaking around the pin.

I'll get my motor mounts tomorow!

I think I will clean up my hobby room tomorrow morning so I have a nice place to start the Rampage build.

nice dude. i started working on getting my motor mounted last night. might finish tonight or tomorrow.

anyway, i have the upgrade kit. besides my ramp is the v2 which is supposed to already have the upgrades in place. and my diffs do have the little rubber gasket around the outdrives but it doenst fit right. nor is there a metal washer to go over the o ring like 1/8 diffs do. it just has the o ring and then the cross pin that goes through the outdrive shaft. i tried putting a washer over it but then i cant get the cross pin thru. anyway, i will figure somethign out. just wondered if there was a surefire trick that had already been used by other ramp owners.

be sure to post pics of your build when you start. i got my hardened gears all mounted up now. they turned out great.

what are you going to do for gear mesh on your setup? just put elongated holes in the chassis so you can slide the mount side to side? or make a set of plates? or just use one gear so you dont need to adjust mesh?

[KaztheMinotaur]

I'd ask on the RedCat Rampage Forum about the diffs. You've got to be missing something for them to leak like that.

I will probably slot the chassis if / when I need to re=gear. Jim Williams included "two sets of slots one for vertical adjustments and the other for horizontal" I can't picture exactly what this means but we will see.

What did you man by make a set of plates?

I'm still thinking about how and in what way to mount my batteries.

[Ryu James]

by plates i mean 2 rectangle plates that the motor mount mounts to and then the plates bolt to the chassis. like a tekno setup. that is how i did my mount. this way the plates are slotted for gear mesh adjustability and also i built them in a way that by reversing the plates i can use either a RCM pinion or flip them around and use the longer sdp 12t pinion. using plates allows the most versatility imo but then again its what i am use to since all my conversion are tekno kits. i will post pics tonight.

as for the batteries i just used 2 RCM trays and mounted on each side of chassis as close to center as possible. what options are you considering for mounting yours?

[KaztheMinotaur]

Well here is my Jim Williams mount. It is a little different that I thought. What I will probably do is sandwich each horizontal slot between 2
L- brackets. Then the L-brackets will be bolted to the chassis. This way I can move the mount for pinion changes with out cutting a big hole in the chassis.

I though the mount mounting screw would thread up into the bottom of the plate...by bottom I mean the surface that sits on the chassis.

I was probably going to use some stick on velcro pieces and velcro cinch straps.

[Ryu James]

it looks alot nicer than in the pics on the website. i thought what you did though. that holes were in the bottom and you just bolted it up to the chassis. but the L plates is a good idea.

[KaztheMinotaur]

I just made (8) L-brackets out of some 3/16 aluminum flat stock I had laying around.

[aqwut]

Looks good, love the shine...