My New G3.0 Maxx.

[Serum]

I don't quite understand the problem with the integy steerink knuckles?

I would personally avoid the aluminum pillowballs, since they tend to break, and don't have got a hex head on both sides (like the UE's). With aluminum arms, aluminum bulks there is about 0 flex possible, so something has to give at a certain wheelcart/bad landing.

here is my Q about the integy aluminum knuckles; could you imagine they would work with the original revo/maxx 3.3 plastic pillowball retainers? and what retainers are you using? since they don't tighten the ball up deep enoug i assume the knuckles aren't threaded deep enough?

[TDC57]

Originally Posted by Serum

I don't quite understand the problem with the integy steerink knuckles?

I would personally avoid the aluminum pillowballs, since they tend to break, and don't have got a hex head on both sides (like the UE's). With aluminum arms, aluminum bulks there is about 0 flex possible, so something has to give at a certain wheelcart/bad landing.

here is my Q about the integy aluminum knuckles; could you imagine they would work with the original revo/maxx 3.3 plastic pillowball retainers? and what retainers are you using? since they don't tighten the ball up deep enoug i assume the knuckles aren't threaded deep enough?

Good evening Serum,
One would assume that they would work (in theory), but unfortunately I tried both my aluminum and plastic retainers, the main problem is the threads are not deep enough to achieve a snug fit. Plus after my third attempt of tighten them up the threads started to give out, so one problem compounded into two. Bottom line (in my opinion) they are poorly constructed and are apparently made for shelf queens only.

I’ve had several different knuckles over the last few builds and I’ve never experienced anything like what I experienced with Integy ones. I’ve had great success with RPM and as soon I installed them the problem was solved, the bummer was it cost me $80.00 for that lessen learned. True in the grand scheme of this truck the costs $80 is nothing but it might be for other family members who are looking to upgrade their babies. I felt compelled to share my experience and thoughts with the team, in hopes for saving at least one other person the frustration / the same lesson I leaned.

I found your comment regarding the aluminum pivot balls extremely interesting, I never thought to look at that way before, would a better choice be the titanium ones??. I’ll love this hobby, mainly because I always get to learn new things and read about other team members experiences, Thank you so much for sharing and I’ll let you / the team know how well the aluminum ones hold up after a few of those bad landing (I'm really good at that) it’s sticking the landing that I’ve got the problem with..

Thanks again for your time and your comments..

Have a great one.

Shaun.

[GorillaMaxx360]

serum... the integy knuckles i used allowed me to tighten the pillow balls down all the way(using plastic ball retainers) i just did not appreciate the machining and the sloppiness of the area inside the pivot ball area. the machining created many burs and the pivot balls did not spin smoothly inside their housings. also the pivot retainers would often loosen quickly. i am using the stock hubs until i can upgrade to rd racing or rpm but the problem seems to be fixed.

[TruckBasher]

Shaun,

I've read thru the thread but somehow I missed out the part you've used to mount the 3905 transmission. Is that a customer made alu mount or is it something you can buy. I have a center diff with my gmaxx (old version) but I am planning for the worst in case i ruin it or something. I just dont see the slipperential on the rc-monster store. Also I dont like the setup since the motor is only on one side and unbalanced..

THanks,

Jeff

[suicideneil]

FLM sell a mounting adaptor that allows the 3905 tranny to be mounted on the FLM 3906 chassis- and the Gmaxx chassis with a little modification. You can contact Mike or FLM directly to get one, $17 + shipping.

Im still hoping Mike will come through with a central motormount/diff arrangement for the Gorilla chassis myself.....

[TruckBasher]

Thanks at least I'll have this option :)

Yeah hope Mike would release the new slipperential with center motor mount.

BTW, great truck Shaun

[TDC57]

Originally Posted by TruckBasher

Shaun,

I've read thru the thread but somehow I missed out the part you've used to mount the 3905 transmission. Is that a customer made alu mount or is it something you can buy. I have a center diff with my gmaxx (old version) but I am planning for the worst in case i ruin it or something. I just dont see the slipperential on the rc-monster store. Also I dont like the setup since the motor is only on one side and unbalanced..

THanks,

Jeff

Good evening Jeff,
Here check out this thread, it outlines for you the process you'll need to go through in order for you to do your conversion.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11650

You will also need to perform the shortening of the output shaft if you are going to install the 3905 Trans. Here is that thread as well..


http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11589

Hope that information helps??.

Thanks for your time and have a great week Jeff.

Shaun.

[TruckBasher]

Very informative thread. Good thing you have a garage full of power tools. I only have a small drill a few hand tools...that's it... :(

Anyway, thanks again...hope more mods to come :)

Hope you've had a great weekend too