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8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
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Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
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Update! -
01.06.2011, 04:47 PM
Motor Mount is finished and slightly Tested! Got all the Bracing finished; holes drilled and tapped. I went and tested for 1 pack so far, This thing is SWEET! I was keeping up around the "Track" with my dads Buggy which was on 6s too... For a bit. Then I noticed bad wheel wobble; I blew the two rear passenger side bearings. Went home and fixed the bearings and then it started raining. LAME. I need to retune my shocks. I was "Donkey kicking" on the bumps pretty bad though... Thicker Oil in the Rear????
On another note: I will be ditching the 1520 in the Maxx for a 1717 ! Woohoo! then regearing to 14/50 for about 56mph. This should actually drop the motor by another ~.5mm with the larger diameter of the 1717.
Then the 1520 is going to be stuffed into the 8ight buggy. My dad got me another MMM for Christmas; so I will run the 8ight with the 1520 on 6s with 18/43 gearing for about 60mph. Hopefully I can get some videos for you guys.
Anyway looking at this now. The motor has dropped at least an inch to an inch and a half. Woohoo! Seriously Low CG now.
Also, I got and F-650 Body and it fits just right with the Mono-block. Barely hits the front and rear bumpers. and tires almost hit the wheel wells at full tilt. Perfect fit. Any bigger and it wouldnt fit...
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RC-Monster Titanium
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Posts: 1,419
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
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01.06.2011, 05:55 PM
Looks crazy good. I'm really into it. I nearly had this truck once. Very close at one time. Then I got that Mutant chassis.
Donkey kicking huh? What weight oil are you using now? Is that one blue and one black spring on each side? IDK you probably have to much spring... I would say so. You really don't even have that much weight back there.
-Zack
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8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
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Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
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01.06.2011, 06:13 PM
Thanks Man, I appreciate you commenting. I think your Mutant is still a good notch up on mine... but I do what I can
I have 30wt mixed with a touch of 80wt in the rear. And those Black springs aren't UE Springs they are RC8 buggy shocks and springs and they are very soft. My suspension actually is very plush. Maybe sinking half the length of travel when I sit it down... I was thinking of getting ~50wt or so...? Think maybe its slapping the ground and bouncing back?
What oils are you running? 4 or 8 shock?
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RC-Monster Titanium
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Posts: 1,419
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
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01.06.2011, 06:37 PM
Well if you will remember when I was running the FLM chassis with monoblock in a very similar setup I was using both 8 and 4 supershocks.. For some reason I wanted to be able to drop my truck from 4 feet flat and not have the chassis touch the floor. I was obsessed with this for about 5 months. After trying every shock on the market(and not on the market) I decided I was crazy and wrong for thinking these things. But I still wanted a big shock body heavy oil and fairly good springs. I ended up with 16mm buggy shocks. They are huge.
They have 30wt in them (alot of it) and the springs are medium hardness. I would like to try 45wt oil next time in these. I love them with 30 though.
However you I see now and you seem to know what you are doing. Yeah 50wt sounds good. Gee half way down is alot at the height you are running. We probably run similiar ride heights and I would have to say turn up the shocks preload collars. (I should say turn them down.) Mine only sags slightly. The front sags to where the shafts in the suspension are level and the rear sags to just above level.
It was so hard for me to picture and conceptualize the truck and how it reacts while in motion. You have seen and felt the donkey kicking and know it best.
-Zack
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8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
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Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
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01.06.2011, 06:52 PM
Silly me, I forgot about your Duh towers and Shocks.
They are SICK!
I have had the kicking problem for a while now. I just figured it was a " MT Thing". But flying down a straight and sommersaulting at 40mph starts to rip the truck apart! Hahaha I gotta do something...
Man your truck is sweet too. I love how many directions we can take with the Maxx... From my take, to yours and Even Aliens ride. Just plain addicting.
I will definately get some vids this weekend if its dry... The 1520 was nuts, I cant wait to try the 1717....  I better stock up on bearings!
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RC-Monster Titanium
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
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01.06.2011, 07:26 PM
Yeah and these are all low cog trucks. Don't forget a truck like Popoxx's.
Or Mark's. And I must say it will look totally different when he unveils what he has been working on for the past 6 months or so.
Neil's as a full GMaxx is another animal all together.
Then a full VBS supermaxx is again its own animal even if its not a Lightning.. We don't see to many of those around.
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8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
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Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
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01.12.2011, 08:18 PM
Motor comparison
Medusa 36x70mm 1600
CC 1520
CC 1717
The 1717 Makes the 36x70mm Medusa look like a 20mm motor…
Kyosho plastic spur lasted about 15minutes…
I thought this was a good shot of showing how simple this CD Mount really is…
Spider gears are now worn in, Oil is “Glittery”, Spur is toast. Time for a rebuild. (After 15min)
Regeared to 50t Spur and 14t Pinion. I had to Clearance the black skid pictured under the 8ight chassis piece. Simple enough. Then I had to clearance the “Support Leg” for the CD Motor Mount. You can see the little notch I cut here:
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8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
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Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
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Yeah a 1717 Maxx! Woohoo! -
01.12.2011, 08:21 PM
1717 Installed
Now this is Loooow CG.
Overall…
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Guest
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01.12.2011, 08:42 PM
Hey,
That looks awesome and ridiculously overpowered.
I was just wondering how you made the motor plate/mount. especially the hole for the CD bearing.
I am planning on making my own mount for my XXL for a 1717 and i have been thinking about how i will make the hole for the CD bearing so that it doesn't move too much,
Thanks in advance
B-M
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8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
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Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
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01.12.2011, 09:41 PM
Thanks Money!
The mount was cut with a jigsaw and some fresh Heavy Duty bits.
The bearing hole isn't perfect but came out pretty damn good... I used an 8ight-T diff and it used 14mm outer diameter bearings. I used an 1/2 inch drill bit (only 12.7mm) and made the hole in the right spot. Then with the drill bit chucked in the drill press I slightly rotated my hand while holding the mount. This enlarged the hole very slightly. The bearing was a bit too tight, So about 1 minute with some sand paper and I had the fit just right...
If you plan to use a more standard size CD bearing (16mm) I suggest getting a 5/8 inch drill bit (15.875mm) and just do a little more sanding. You can get them in there perfect with a little time and patience. It wont take long to sand away .125mm
Then I just used a Belt sander and File to get the edges all pretty and sanded with wet 150 grit. (400 would be better)
PS for the motor mount holes I just removed a motor end bell and clamped it on the mount to get the 25mm spacing just right...
 PSS: Get some Good Quality Drill Bits. I broke or Dulled 4 or 5 bits drilling this mount and braces. As you can see in the top middle of the mount.
Last edited by ZippyBasher; 01.12.2011 at 10:03 PM.
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8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
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Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
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01.12.2011, 09:51 PM
Oh and on another note: I got to try the 1520 in the 8ight for about a minute and HOLY CRAP! i almost pulled a backflip off the speedbump on accident!  But the MMM isnt working right (or Servo). So no full Runs yet...
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Guest
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01.12.2011, 10:03 PM
Thanks for the info.
I should be able to start making my mount next week or so. The idea about removing the end bell to get the proper spacing is seriously smart, I think that's how i'll do mine.
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RC-Monster Titanium
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Posts: 1,419
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
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01.12.2011, 11:31 PM
To use the words of neil, that motor is Mahoosive!
Yeah man nice Maxx!! And as I've said your modded Badlands make me want to get them again and do it right like you did.
I'm glad some one understood my "glittery". I can't think of a better term for the way our oil looks. I was afraid of using metal a few years ago. Now I recommend it, certainly for 1/8th scale.
-Zack
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8th scale Stunt-Driver/Mechanic
Offline
Posts: 441
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: SoCal
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01.13.2011, 01:52 AM
 Really! I really like the badlands for grass and park running. Why dont you just bake your other ones from the buddy truck and stretch em...? Or are they about toast?
Bondonutz had a good tutorial on The tube. Its extremely easy. 325 for 15 turn and 15 more... I did that with those Zombie Maxx Tires you see on the Yellow rims. They had stripped 14mm hex so They were useless on the rims I had. And they were the best tires IMO.
Now Im glad I bought that complete unit from the bay. That spur sure came in handy.
Last edited by ZippyBasher; 01.13.2011 at 01:56 AM.
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Guest
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01.13.2011, 05:10 AM
Hey,
I'm just wondering what sort of tap and drill set you used. I have a dubro set coming but i am unsure if they'll be able to tap ally.
Also thanks for the link for the mill. I think i will get a mill from here (australia) as then the measurements should be metric but i'll be getting some of the other stuff from the US as it's heaps cheaper.
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