Another Quark Question

[MetalMan]

Can't say anything about your runtimes with 16 cells, but how warm are the cells getting?

For me, I usually just have reverse disabled. IMO there's nothing wrong with just forward and brake. I'm somewhat partial though because I've had a problem with my MGM controller where it will switch into reverse while slowing down during a speed run!

[jhautz]

How fast do you go in reverse anyway. Its just for backing out of trouble. Not for high speed driving. I say I wish it had it, but in all reality, I dont really miss it.

Just one of those little Quark Quirks:dft012:

[Sylvester]

Sometimes people go more than 5-10mph in reverse but once the throttle is tapped it flips, thats not good news for revo owners, atleast till we can use 8 spyder diffs. Than we will be kings of the hill muahahahha!

@Newuser- How high is the capacity of your batteries? How far do they charge? Only 5 cycles? Try to put in atleast 15 than report to us after. On my gp3300's i get 25 min bash times and 12-15 minute racing times.

can brakes be disabled?

[BrianG]

Yes. Quark Manual

[neweuser]

with my other 8 cells from mike, i get about 25 min to about 28 min, depends on how i drive. they get warm, but that's it....i think i should have more. the capacity is 3800 mah...i should be getting more foresure...any ideas? i have another thread on this too....just curious, i've never had this problem...will let you know how it goes...thanks guys!

[BrianG]

Well, depending on the weight, current draw, and how many standing starts you do, that sounds about right. Think of it this way; a 3800mAh battery will be able to supply 30A for roughly 7.6 minutes. Basically, you multiply the capacity in Ah (3.8 in your case) by 60 minutes to get "amp-minutes". Then divide that number by how much runtime you are averaging to get your average current draw. You said you get 25ish minutes. That means your average current draw is only about 9 amps (3.8Ah*60min=228Am. 228Am/25minutes=9.12A). That's pretty low for a brushless motor considering 80-100+ amp peaks are not uncommon under heavy acceleration depending on motor wind, driving, weight, etc.

If I add a fan with a thermal patch to my 125B on the front and/or back, and not the heat sink strips, do you think it will help to cool it? I'm thinking about milling out a motherboard heat sink too, and using that fan. I heard the adhesive alone is $50.

does lipo packs increase speed too or just run time?im kinda new on electric and specially 1/8 or 1/10 bl set ups..i bought a quark 125 also,can i run my batts in series with this ESC? after i fried my mtroniks that i got used im afraid to even connect the batts when i get the new ESC..about the mtroniks idk what happened but when i got it, the seller made a y-connector so i can ran my batts in series making it run 12cells of ib3800s..aside from that i connected the esc to another y harness that connects also to the brake servo.as i was setting my th/br on the radio the esc started to sizzle..will those connections can cause this?can someone pls post a pic on how u run batteries in series?i have a pic also that ill post and pls tell me if its right..u may have seen my post on other forums but they were left unanswered.the seller told me the connectors are done right another friend said its good too but idk y i fried my esc?pls help thanks guys..

guys im sorry i thot i made a new thread ..

[HotnCold]

Originally Posted by dda01015

If I add a fan with a thermal patch to my 125B on the front and/or back, and not the heat sink strips, do you think it will help to cool it? I'm thinking about milling out a motherboard heat sink too, and using that fan. I heard the adhesive alone is $50.

Yea - putting a heatsink on the bottom of the spee controller will help - you need a compound to effectively transfer the heat from the speed controller to your heatsink - an efficient transfer of heat will reduce the temps substantially - i went from thermaling after 6 mins being easy on the throttle to 35 mins and hammering the snot out of the throttle trying to thermal her.... Good luck.... btw - check out this stuff called artic silver - works awesome

[BrianG]

And to add to HNC's reply: If you want to bond the heatsink to the ESC case, use thermal adhesive, not simply thermal compound. The link for the Arctive Silver adhesive is: http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_s...l_adhesive.htm

Be warned, it is considered permanent. If you use normal thermal compound, you'll have to find a way to hold the two parts firmly together and not move around (hard to do win an r/c car).