Mamba Max FET Datasheet

[teamtekin]

Need to protect ourselves a little. The others will find this fet also I am sure. I will tell you the continuous drain current is higher, Rds on is lower, gate charge is lower and pulse current is unbelievable. Try over 250A vs 106A. Spendy little buggers however.

Tekin Prez

[skellyo]

Originally Posted by squeeforever

Good point there buddy! So I guess it will go in order of status, right? As in Mods first. :)

And here I was thinking an EE like myself would make a nice beta tester. :D

[glassdoctor]

From TheSteve:

The fets in my version of the Max were Vishay Si4368dy's

.

He said that these are better than the original MM fets.

he thinks this pic shows the same fets... ???

[zeropointbug]

Sooo, what is that thing? Is that the MM taken apart? Old one?

[glassdoctor]

No... not a Mamba... I'm not sure what it is. Looks like a Schulze... TheSteve posted it on the other forum.

[GriffinRU]

Originally Posted by teamtekin

Need to protect ourselves a little. The others will find this fet also I am sure. I will tell you the continuous drain current is higher, Rds on is lower, gate charge is lower and pulse current is unbelievable. Try over 250A vs 106A. Spendy little buggers however.

Tekin Prez

Its not a problem to find a better FET, its how to make money while using it :)
Welcome to the Forum!

[Gustav]

personally i'd happily pay the extra for reliable contollers,still the weak link with our hobby,with the bigger vehicles atleast,1/10 is no problem.

[zeropointbug]

Those capacitors in that pic are too far away from the board, they need to be RIGHT up there.

[BrianG]

OK, I took apart the MM from my Jato and found that it uses a different part number for the FETs: 4108N

You can find the datasheet here.

And, while I had it apart, I popped the heatsink off (very easy to do really if you're gentle) and snapped a few pics if anyone is interested:

[GriffinRU]

COOL,
Nice job Brian

[BrianG]

lol, now I have to scrape the old heat epoxy gunk off and put the heatsink back on. :)

Before I do this, is there anything else that anyone wants to see?

I thought the BEC would be in the middle layer, but that looks like the USB controller chip. Note the insulating white-ish material between the IC and the FET layer to keep the heat off the controller. I really think the BEC is made up of those two chips on the upper left corner of the first image above. I looked up the part number, and they are simply transistors. And looking at the traces, they are paralleled (bad idea for transistors IMO). I'll have to hook up the ESC and measure them to be sure. If those do make up the BEC, I might see if I can either heatsink them or remove them and squeeze in the ParkBEC I have. :)

[Serum]

They must be the BEC brian, they route directly to the red wire.

[BrianG]

That's kinda what I was thinking, but paralleling transistors is not the best design, so I thought maybe they were for something else...

I'll do some playing around tomorrow (or I should say "later today" as it's now 2:22 AM) to be sure.

[Serum]

Who cares about time when you are on an important mission Brian..

[GriffinRU]

Originally Posted by BrianG

lol, now I have to scrape the old heat epoxy gunk off and put the heatsink back on. :)

Before I do this, is there anything else that anyone wants to see?

I thought the BEC would be in the middle layer, but that looks like the USB controller chip. Note the insulating white-ish material between the IC and the FET layer to keep the heat off the controller. I really think the BEC is made up of those two chips on the upper left corner of the first image above. I looked up the part number, and they are simply transistors. And looking at the traces, they are paralleled (bad idea for transistors IMO). I'll have to hook up the ESC and measure them to be sure. If those do make up the BEC, I might see if I can either heatsink them or remove them and squeeze in the ParkBEC I have. :)

Are you sure about part numbers? Looks like - 2 SOT-23 from LM2940 family of lowdropout regs...
Otherwise they just voltage followers but without matching currents with resistors in emmiters or growing them together would be not good (one will be always on vacation :) )