My e-revo brushless edition build - Page 34 - RC-Monster Forums

mistercrash · 10:50 AM

They were quick in responding to my second inquiry about an E-revo chassis.

''Hi Ray,

Because we will have our own truck release soon, we are directing all our resources towards that truck at the moment. It will be called an E-ST 4x4. We can, however consider doing the E-Revo chassis as a co-op if you can find someone to willing to invest for the molding ($4000) and we will do the designing and production afterward. We can even call it a Raymond Duchesne version and split the profit with you every chassis we sell. Let us know how you think and we can work from there.

Vantage Racing''

Anybody have $4000 to spare?

The E-Revo ''Raymond Duchesne'' carbon fiber chassis.

I don't know if I should laugh or be insulted

But this new E-ST 4X4 truck they're working on sounds interesting.

Chadworkz · 02.05.2010, 01:14 AM

With one battery per side, I think your CG will be plenty low enough, because with both batteries on one side of my truck (balanced by all other electronics being on the opposite side) it is well balanced and I never have to worry about traction-rolling or anything else associated with high CG.

Urgeoner · 02.05.2010, 01:37 PM

Were they being wise-asses?

Split the profits with you on every chassis? That would be nice

mistercrash · 02.05.2010, 02:21 PM

Maybe they were being wise asses, doesn't matter to me. Here's what I got in the mail this morning. I'm going to try this out. It looks and feels good. It fits perfectly and ties the bottom of the bulkheads together much better than the stock plastic skid plates.

Of course I couldn't leave it stock so I made a steel protective plate for it like the one I use for the rear skid.

mistercrash · 05:05 PM

Have you ever been fed up with something? After fixing my ERBE and getting out in a sunny 9 degree Fahrenheit day for some bashing, I bring the truck back in after two sets of 4S Turnigys and what do I find. Broken bulkheads front and rear. And a front A arm and the front bumper. I don't mind the A arm and bumper too much but the bulkhead thing is getting ridiculous. So I come to this conclusion, no jumping in cold weather, if you insist in running your E-Revo in very cold weather, run it very slowly on a level surface because plastic turns to crystal in the winter.

I am ordering a brand new Traxxas chassis and will go back to that and see what happens when I run the truck in the same manner I have been doing. Someone better hope that I still break bulkheads

If not then I will be selling some chassis stuff, but I suspect that anyone who reads this thread won't buy it

02.06.2010, 05:21 PM

Hahaha, stock ftw! I think the Kershaw is a good design, but its not cold weather friendly...

02.06.2010, 07:38 PM

Or I guess pony up 4 big ones and have Vantage make the ''Raymond Duchesne'' special. ;-)

mistercrash · 02.08.2010, 11:39 AM

Chrome wheels are for shelf queens. When you start using them, they quickly look awful. The chrome is flaking off. But the paint I put on the wheels is holding.

rawfuls · 02.06.2010, 07:39 PM

Wait, so, if thousands are big ones, are hundreds mini ones? (Like 4 bills, is 4 minis? :P) Sorry, I'm incredibly bored :(

02.06.2010, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rawfuls

Wait, so, if thousands are big ones, are hundreds mini ones? (Like 4 bills, is 4 minis? :P) Sorry, I'm incredibly bored :(

Sure, why not. :-) I'm sure since they no longer print money in $1000 denominations, techincally $100's would be the biggest. I therefore misspoke - 40 big ones...4 super-size (?).

rawfuls · 02.06.2010, 08:04 PM

Chadworkz · 02.06.2010, 10:09 PM

Vegas has the last remaining $1,000 bills (one thousand of them) as well as the only $10,000 bills (one hundred of them) ever printed! They are displayed in one of the casinos.

Chadworkz · 02.07.2010, 12:37 AM

Like I said, the Hardcore Racing full-length, one-piece titanium skid-plate is the best thing you can do for a Revo, 2nd only to the Vantage CF chassis!

Also like I said, I have a brand-new, one-piece, 2mm titanium skid-plate that you could use, but as I had to do with mine, you will need to cut it to make it fit. Plus, since it is for a nitro-style chassis, and you have an electric-style chassis, all you could really use would be the front section and the rear section, which is more than enough. If you don't want to buy a whole, complete, new skid, I have a used (but nice) front section that has already been cut that will be perfect for you!

shaunjohnson · 06:22 AM

race report on smart diff...
the diff stock out of box with no tuning was similar in performance to 100k diff oil in a XXL diff.
power would start off unloaded, front wheels touched down followed by a huge push in the rear end and then gradually as the torque on the diff reduced it would unload again.

the brakes were insane! locked all 4's rather than having the CD unload the 2 gradually.

and since i changed from a 2.5 chassis to a 3.3 chassis i may aswell tell you what i thought...
IT SUCKED WITH A CAPITOL S!!!!!!

i have no idea how you people drive with the long 3.3 and E-revo chassis's!!
i was forced to run the 6s lipo all day and i STILL needed more power!!
the 5s decided today was a good day to need new deans plugs but when it was going it was GUTLESS!!
you need max throttle on the 3.3 chassis to pull out of a dive and sometimes it STILL wont pull out of it!
the old 2.5 could pull out of ANYTHING!!
i hope i can find a way to get my beloved 2.5 chassis re-enforced and repaired again...i miss quadruple backflips

Quote:

Originally Posted by mistercrash

I never tried any Integy parts, I also never tried ST Racing parts. All I had to go from was the opinions I could find in forums. And like I said, they were mixed and did not help me very much. As for using aluminum skids not being the smartest option, I agree for the rear, the Revo wears out the rear skid plate very quickly, but I never had problems with my front skids wearing out prematurely. I looked at the ST Racing skid and thought that it might help since it was made in one piece instead of two. I couldn't make up my mind on the quality of the part from the opinions from other users so I had to try it for myself. Sorry I took your first post a little too personnal.

i have some titanium ones that i havent got round it fitting

squeeforever · 02.07.2010, 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shaunjohnson

race report on smart diff...
the diff stock out of box with no tuning was similar in performance to 100k diff oil in a XXL diff.
power would start off unloaded, front wheels touched down followed by a huge push in the rear end and then gradually as the torque on the diff reduced it would unload again.

the brakes were insane! locked all 4's rather than having the CD unload the 2 gradually.

and since i changed from a 2.5 chassis to a 3.3 chassis i may aswell tell you what i thought...
IT SUCKED WITH A CAPITOL S!!!!!!

i have no idea how you people drive with the long 3.3 and E-revo chassis's!!
i was forced to run the 6s lipo all day and i STILL needed more power!!
the 5s decided today was a good day to need new deans plugs but when it was going it was GUTLESS!!
you need max throttle on the 3.3 chassis to pull out of a dive and sometimes it STILL wont pull out of it!
the old 2.5 could pull out of ANYTHING!!
i hope i can find a way to get my beloved 2.5 chassis re-enforced and repaired again...i miss quadruple backflips

i have some titanium ones that i havent got round it fitting

I think part of your problem could very well be the diff. That can change the flight characteristics and might be why it won't pull the nose up so easily. Try the .15mm springs and the 120 degree ramp plates (not sure how they come). That should give the most aggressive setup possible. If you decide to sell it though, let me know. :)