8ight T conversion

This is the latest version of my setup...



I ran it tonight with the 40 series Moabs, geared 13/46 on the 9XL with the Quark esc, with a maxamps 4S 8Ah pack and it thermalled after about 3 minutes of running. I thought I heard it cog, so I'm figuring that it was overgeared a bit. What really worries me is that the Quark didn't feel all that hot. It looks like I'm going to have to send it in again as it seems that the thermal pad has let loose (or does the Quark have an over current protection?).

Once Mike's mount gets here, I'm sure that it will look prettier.

that doesn't look like the stock spur, what spur are you using and does it fit on the stock diff cup that came with the losi? did it require any mods?

[jollyjumper]

kyosho spur i think, fits.

That is a 46T Kyosho nylon spur gear. The Losi 8ight center diff cup is the same one that is used in the Muggy and Sportwerks 1/8 scale vehicles. The stock diff cup did need to be modified, in that I reduced the outside diameter of the upper portion of the cup by about 20/1000ths. It is my understanding that the Maximizer aluminum diff cup does fit the Kyosho spur without modification, but I haven't confirmed this myself.

what motor/esc are you using

[Patrick]

Originally Posted by 1bhutch

what motor/esc are you using

His post with the picture has all that info in it. (post #46)

And the saga continues....

I had to do the cooling mod to my brand new Quark yesterday, just to keep it from thermalling. I ran it for a combined total of about an hour and the Quark quit on me. This was my second Quark. I exchanged the first one for this one. I really don't see what all of the ranting about these Quarks has been. From my experience they are real pieces of crap.

Now all I have is a $280 pretty aluminum box that does nothing and I can't send it in because I had to do the cooling mod to it.

[gixxer]

that sucks aangel. I was debating picking one up to try with my neu. now I guess I will either chance it with the mamba and see what happens or just hold on to it till tekin or castle release something better.

fyi, if it makes you feel better I think I have had some of your luck this week. The other day I took a new mamba change wire, plugged it in and smoke. Then yesterday I changed my battery tray, and put to long of a screw in and punchered my lipo.

Oh crap gixxer...sorry to hear that you're having some of my luck.

I really don't want to steer you away from the Quark. Many here are running them with success, as long as the heat issues are addressed. I just know that I won't be buying another. It just kind of rubbed me wrong the way Frank at S&T kept coming back to the fact that the Monster Pro is NOT a 1/8 scale controller, when their distributor (Horizon) advertises the controller as being popular for 1/8 scale conversions.

I do have to say that their customer service is good. I just have to wait and see what they do about the latest one going up in smoke.

What did you do about that lipo? Did/could you try to salvage the remaining cells?

For those keeping up with this thread that are considering doing an 8ight, here are updates....

I just ordered a Neu 1512 1.5Y for the 8ight. I've grown tired of the heat issues with the Feigao motors. I do have my truck running well with the 9XL on 4S. As you can see in the pic above, I had to turn a custom heatsink for my motor. It completely encases the motor and is a tight fit. I had to do some mild pressing to get the motor into the sink. It didn't do anything to reduce temps, but I can now run a 30 minute race before the temps reach critical.

At this point, I'm thinking that the MM esc with a Feigao 10XL geared 16/46 may have been a better racing setup, but I'm not experimenting with the cheap motors any longer. I'm just hoping that the Neu will run reasonably well with the MM. I've found the MM to be the best esc for my tastes, in terms of smoothness. My friends who also regularly drive me truck commented that they like the MM better than the Quark. Although the Quark is just about cog proof, the take off is also a bit more abrupt. If my Neu doesn't act right with my MM and Castle doesn't release the Neu fix; I'll do whatever it takes to keep running my MM. That may mean going to a Lehner, although I'm sure that the 1940/9 won't be bad either.

I've been driving the truck hard, meaning A LOT. Just about everyday with a lot of track time. Lots of jumps, hard landings, and wipe outs. The only things that have broken are the outer rear hinge pins (actually screws) and one rear wheel hub. It's a tough truck, but it's starting to show signs of wear. I can tell that things are starting to loosen up. The bearings in the center diff are making a terrible screeching noise now too. I just placed an order with Avid for two complete sets of bearings.

I also installed Mike's motor mount. It's pretty. The chassis mounting holes were a bit shallow, so I had to cut the screws. Later, I'm going to get a tap to cut the threads a bit deeper, but I'm sure that this will be fixed in later versions of the mount. Other than that, I would have liked to have seen a relief cut to allow easier access to the pinion screw. On the whole, the mount is a keeper. I was going to go back to my homemade mount, but it is heavier and for racing, I'm counting ounces.

For those of you still on the fence trying to decide if you want one...don't even hesitate. I didn't like the 8ight buggy at all, but the 8ight T drives like a dream and it's as tough, if not tougher, than other trucks out there.

I'll post a pic later, after I get some sleep.

[gixxer]

my motor mount was the same way. I just cut the screws a little. I also finally got to try out the 8t on the track. it seems a lot easier to drive then my 8ight. I tried it with the stock set up with a 12xl motor on 5s. It jumped nice and handles well I just want to get a little more side bite and probably change the center diff oil.

now just like you I am waiting for castle to release an update for the neu. I picked up a 1512 3d for the buggy and a 1521 1y for the truck but haven't used them yet. I was going to set up the truggy with it first but when the MM went during setup I didn't want to push my luck anymore.

that must suck. you can't havebad luck forever

I feel like I am the only one who hasn't done the internal mod to my quark 125(I do have heatsinks on it though). In my revo, I can drive for an hour without a thermal. The only time I had it thermal was when I was running it in my LSP geared for 50mph with a 2200kv motor on 4s. Also AAngel, I thought you would like to know that I did a little test. I can run a full 8000mah 4s pack through my revo with a quark 125b and Neu 1515 1/y and have the temps stay around 115f-120f on everything. Then I took my 9xl geared the same way, same everything and can only run for 15min before the motor temps get to 140f+. I was surprised by this, I thought that the 9xl would run cooler than a 2200kv motor; guess not...

Bye:018:

cem gates, yeah that's about what I found. The Feigaos will get HOT. You can't prevent it, you can only delay it a bit. I was able to with the custom heatsink, but there are times when I run for way longer than an hour and changing motors is a PITA.

I'm also hoping that Quark will take care of me with my Monster Pro. I sure would like to be able to give it another shot.

with all the trouble you have had with it i would see if you could get it fixed and then sell it on ebay or somthing and buy a different esc

[RC-Monster Mike]

I actually used the shorter radio/servo tray screws in the motor mount, which are a little shorter - these fit perfectly and the longer screws that come in the motor mount stiffen the plastic servo tray a bit from the longer thread contact. I will drill and tap deeper on the next batch - I had already swapped the screws and designed the mount around the shorter radio tray screws that I had used(whoops).
I never ran the 8 buggy, but I have been very happy with the 8 truggy - it is pretty tough and handles very neutral.
I have a Quark 125 that is over a year old and has never thermalled. It is heat sinked to the chassis on my g-maxx and runs 4s with a 1515/1y motor - the motor and controller have never exceeded 150 degrees even under continuous use in summer heat. It does seem as though some folks have thermal troubles with the Quark, but I have had excellent results with mine.