MGM 22418 & 6S LiPo is No GOOD

[lutach]

I used 37 volts with my truck and I blew the diffs. Even if you drop to a 14 tooth pinion, you will still go over 55MPH. That is fast and too fast if you plan on racing. You should try a 4S lipo with the 14 tooth and it should put you right at around 40MPH. I love power and speed, but you will have to stock up on parts for sure.

ssspconcept, did you use the internal controler BEC or you use an external one??

Don't know why, but i don't wnt to take any chance and on my e-revo, i've a MGM 16018 on 4s, and i use an external CCBEC.

[ssspconcepts]

Originally Posted by david lamontagn

ssspconcept, did you use the internal controler BEC or you use an external one??

Don't know why, but i don't wnt to take any chance and on my e-revo, i've a MGM 16018 on 4s, and i use an external CCBEC.

I am using the internal BEC...

[ssspconcepts]

Originally Posted by lutach

I used 37 volts with my truck and I blew the diffs. Even if you drop to a 14 tooth pinion, you will still go over 55MPH. That is fast and too fast if you plan on racing. You should try a 4S lipo with the 14 tooth and it should put you right at around 40MPH. I love power and speed, but you will have to stock up on parts for sure.

I don't race....I live in Western-Freaking-Virginia. When I say "RC car" people go "huh wuts dat?" There are two off-road tracks that are around 60 miles away...but I've never checked them out.

[lutach]

Originally Posted by ssspconcepts

I don't race....I live in Western-Freaking-Virginia. When I say "RC car" people go "huh wuts dat?" There are two off-road tracks that are around 60 miles away...but I've never checked them out.

That's funny. Try and do what David said and you could also use a receiver pack. I had cogging issue with my BKs and when I used a receiver pack with all of them with BEC disabled, they didn't cog anymore.

Update:

The two 22418 ESC and the Neu 1515/1.5DF motor is at MGM offices right now and I'm expecting Martin to call me tomorrow after his techs test them and what not ... So I will keep my fingers crossed and hope for the best. I will keep you guys posted

Still, MGM Compro customer service is an A rated

Update:

I was contacted by Martin and it seems that they could not pinpoint the problem for some reason, but they will send me two new ones instead, to which I’m very appreciative.

Moreover, they did test the NEU Motor with another 22418 and according to him it worked just fine … Now I’m not sure if that was using a 6S LiPo or not, thus I asked him to test it using a 6S LiPo if they did not, before they ship the new ones.

MGM Compro customer service … is AAA (this is according to S&P … hehehe)

Have you ship it yourself directly to MGM, at the adress that apear on the controler manual??

I ask it to you because if i have a problem with mine, i'll did the same thing that your's.

I've bought mine with Mike, but if the service is way fater when we ship it direct, i'll do the same if mine break!

Thank you!

David

[What's_nitro?]

Hey aalzuhair remember way back when you posted the setting of your controllers? I noticed that you had free-wheel disabled. I've skimmed through the thread and I haven't seen anyone mention it so I thought I would point that out. If you noticed cogging on deceleration but not acceleration, that is why. The controller brakes very hard as it tries to regulate the speed or the motor. If you were driving at high speed and decelerated enough to engage the "speed brake" the controller may have been overloaded by the sheer number of braking voltage spikes sent back from the motor. Having a slotted stator helps to couple the magnetic field of the rotor into the stator windings and can produce a very powerful current spike. In a nutshell, if you accelerate to a speed in 3s, and then brake to a stop in 1s, the controller sees 3 times as much current during braking as it did accelerating. This could have caused both of your controllers to blow.

Originally Posted by What's_nitro?

Hey aalzuhair remember way back when you posted the setting of your controllers? I noticed that you had free-wheel disabled. I've skimmed through the thread and I haven't seen anyone mention it so I thought I would point that out. If you noticed cogging on deceleration but not acceleration, that is why. The controller brakes very hard as it tries to regulate the speed or the motor. If you were driving at high speed and decelerated enough to engage the "speed brake" the controller may have been overloaded by the sheer number of braking voltage spikes sent back from the motor. Having a slotted stator helps to couple the magnetic field of the rotor into the stator windings and can produce a very powerful current spike. In a nutshell, if you accelerate to a speed in 3s, and then brake to a stop in 1s, the controller sees 3 times as much current during braking as it did accelerating. This could have caused both of your controllers to blow.

Seam to be logic.....

Originally Posted by david lamontagn

Have you ship it yourself directly to MGM, at the adress that apear on the controler manual??

I ask it to you because if i have a problem with mine, i'll did the same thing that your's.

I've bought mine with Mike, but if the service is way fater when we ship it direct, i'll do the same if mine break!

Thank you!

David

Yes I did I got the address from their web site

Originally Posted by What's_nitro?

Hey aalzuhair remember way back when you posted the setting of your controllers? I noticed that you had free-wheel disabled. I've skimmed through the thread and I haven't seen anyone mention it so I thought I would point that out. If you noticed cogging on deceleration but not acceleration, that is why. The controller brakes very hard as it tries to regulate the speed or the motor. If you were driving at high speed and decelerated enough to engage the "speed brake" the controller may have been overloaded by the sheer number of braking voltage spikes sent back from the motor. Having a slotted stator helps to couple the magnetic field of the rotor into the stator windings and can produce a very powerful current spike. In a nutshell, if you accelerate to a speed in 3s, and then brake to a stop in 1s, the controller sees 3 times as much current during braking as it did accelerating. This could have caused both of your controllers to blow.

I did notice some cogging, but I can’t remember if it was on acceleration or deceleration … I can’t remember … At any rate, thanks for the info, I will enable the free-wheel next time

OK you tell me that the address is on their web site..

Thank you!

[mxracer]

well i have sent them multiple emails from 2 different email addresses about my problems and i havent heard back at all !!
maybe someone here could help me. i got a usb com , just wondering if there is led lights that comes on the device? because i cant seem to get that to communicate with any of my 4x mgm esc's or either of my 2 computers

Originally Posted by mxracer

well i have sent them multiple emails from 2 different email addresses about my problems and i havent heard back at all !!
maybe someone here could help me. i got a usb com , just wondering if there is led lights that comes on the device? because i cant seem to get that to communicate with any of my 4x mgm esc's or either of my 2 computers

Make sure that you check your Spam/Junk e-mail folder, because I had the same thing happen with me and then I checked my spam folder and there it was :)