My e-revo brushless edition build

[ZippyBasher]

Mr. Crash, You would be able to tell me the Distance between the Stock holes on the Axle? From where the CVD Pin goes through the axle to where the Hex Pin goes through the axle? And distance between the hole you drilled in the axle and CVD Pin hole.? And Lastly. Length of your CVD Pin to Pin. I have been tinkering with some 17mm Hubs and 8mm Axles. I appreciate your time...

Thank You Sir...

[Shonen]

I'd like to say thank you, mistercrash. Your documentary thread and photos really helped in my own LST diff/CVA conversion. I used 8x14x4 bearings instead on the outside of the hub carrier...if they prove to be too small I will move to the 8x16x4 you used.

[mistercrash]

8X14X4? I thought the stock carriers used a 6X15X5 bearing. Maybe I'm remembering wrong. Anyway, I chose to use the 8X16X5 bearings because they are pretty common and easy to find cheap. But the carriers need to be slightly modified. Someone found some 8X15X5 bearings so he didn't have to mod the carriers. The only place I found 8X15X5 bearings with rubber seals is at Boca Bearings. At 10 buck per bearings, I prefer to modify my carriers to use the 8X16 that cost a buck a piece.

I'm glad that the mod is working for you and you're welcomed. I was on an Hawaiin cruise last January and got to visit the Island of Hilo a little bit. I thought it was absolutely beautiful, a little too rainy for my taste but gorgeous.

[Shonen]

I'm using the axles off the LST too, hence the 8mm ID. I got them off of Boca as an econo ten pack (part number 99MR148-2RS-X10, cost me $9 for ten). I didn't bother looking for other dimensions since the price was so good. (:

Glad you enjoyed your cruise! Hilo is very pretty but the reason everything's green is cause it does rain a lot.

I know this may sound like taking a step back but has any one tried to put the stock lst diff in and use the stock axles? I know you wouldn't be able to change the cups and from the looks of it you would have to build the bulkheads around the diffs, but you also would have to mod the diffs. Also if anyone has done this do the axle lengths match up well? I have just finished up my lst diff swap after blowing through 6 diffs in my E-Revo and I am very happy.

[mistercrash]

You mean the stock Traxxas axles (sliders) with the LST diffs? Yes that's what I ran for a long while. You need to take 4 extra Traxxas axles and cut the threaded part plus about 1 mm and replace the LST output cups with these modified Traxxas axles. The stock Traxxas sliders can fit on the LST diffs with no problem. Or you could get 4 of Monster Mikes 1/8 diff output shafts if you don't want to modify the Traxxas axles.

I don't understand your comment of ''building the bulkheads around the diffs''. Do you mean to modify the bulkheads to match the LST diffs? If that's the case, it is better to modify the diff casings to fit in the bulkheads. There's only one part of the case that can't be changed and that's where the front screws are. That is where the bulkheads need to be modified, just to make enough room for that front part of the diff case where the screws are. Very minimal material is taken off the bulkheads. If you try to fit the bulklheads around the diffs without modifying the diff cases, way too much material is taken off the bulkheads and they will break easily.

I think I wasn't very clear with my question. I was asking is anyone hasn't changed the out put shafts on the LST diffs and ran them with LST axles like you did on your Revo. I know that the bulk heads have to be shaved in a few areas from your post and from when I did mine to make them fit. I guess I still might not be very clear on what I am trying to say. Keep the LST diffs stock shave them on the top to clear the chassis, but build the bulkheads around them. If you keep the LST diffs stock they wont fit through the slots cut like the stock ones do. You would not be able to get your diff out without taking your bulkheads apart but you also would have to swap the stubs over inside the diff. This was something I was kicking around and was curious if anyone else has done it or thought about doing it this way.

[mistercrash]

Ok you want to use the LST diffs as they come with the LST diff output cups right? Not replace the cups with modified Traxxas axles. Some guys have been doing it by putting an extra inner bearing in the carriers to push the LST CVD inwards towards the diff. I haven't tried that yet but I will fiddle around to see for myself if it works. By pushing the CVD towards the diff with that extra bearing, the pin meshes deeper in the LST diff output cups so that they don't pop out.

Yes Sir you got it. Thanks for the info I might build my next one with that idea. I have LST diffs in m e Revo now with MIP axles and I have been really happy with the performance. I wanted to run the MIP center cvds on it because I thought it would be a lot simpler until I realize that they wouldn't work on the LST diff pinion shaft. I looked and my axles and there isn't really enough meat on them to drill them out, and at 50 bucks for the set I figured that would be a bad idea. After looking at a few of your pictures of center axles and drive axles I was curious if the drive axle would be long enough to fit in the center? If you took the stub off the drive axle and put the end off the center shaft. It looks like it would either be too long or just right from the picture. Also, my plastic center shafts are junk now I cant keep a set screw in them, and they are twisted pretty bad. Can you tell me what shafts you used and cups and where you got them all in one post like a parts list? I saw them on here but they were in a few different post. Thanks for the help like always this thread has really helped me along my way. Also I would agree with you on RPM carriers they are junk the bearings don't fit snug and move a few mm back and forth in them. I am sure that is the same problem you had with them.

[Ola]

My bearings fit perfect in my RPM carriers..

The problem most have with them, is pivot`s popping out.. I think the RPM`s are supposed to use the metal rings around pivot`s on the inside of the carrier. They fit 100% perfect (very tight too), so i suspect it`s ment to be like that.
You have to take the metal rings from stock carriers though, since they dont come with the RPM`s..

Not sure it cures the problem 100%, but i think so.

That also may be true but I have a set of very new true track a arms and carriers and they have fit like junk since day one. When I was putting everything together the bearing would fall out if you flipped them upside down. After reading a lot of forums I wish I didn't buy that set up because of issues just like the ones I am having. I would run there a arms again, but I am sure that I personally will never be running any of the carriers on anything that I own. The reason the problem because a bigger problem in my case is the fact that I put the mip axles on it and thinking I had to shim the axles to tighten things up in the rear I noticed it was the bearing moving in the carrier. I know it is the carriers because I am running stock Revo's in the front and I didnt run into any of these problems.

Originally Posted by BigoBoogieman

That also may be true but I have a set of very new true track a arms and carriers and they have fit like junk since day one. When I was putting everything together the bearing would fall out if you flipped them upside down. After reading a lot of forums I wish I didn't buy that set up because of issues just like the ones I am having. I would run there a arms again, but I am sure that I personally will never be running any of the carriers on anything that I own. The reason the problem because a bigger problem in my case is the fact that I put the mip axles on it and thinking I had to shim the axles to tighten things up in the rear I noticed it was the bearing moving in the carrier. I know it is the carriers because I am running stock Revo's in the front and I didnt run into any of these problems.

Sounds like you got something the slipped through RPM Quality control. I have rpm regular carriers and truetracs and the bearings fit snugly in all of them. The main reason I stopped using them is the pivot balls always popping out on me.
I have to ask....you are using the larger diameter bearings that RPM provides with the carrier and not your stock bearings, correct?

The whole setup maybe has 15 minutes of run time on them, and yes I used the brand new bearings that were sealed in the package when I got them.

[mistercrash]

This is what I use for center shafts.

E-Revo Center Dog Bone Kit

You also need two of these to fit on the 8 mm input shafts of the LST diffs. Get the ones with an 8 mm bore of course.

RC Monster Drive cup - Hardened steel

Last thing I had to do to make everything fit nicely was to cut the front part of the output shaft of the E-Revo tranny and make a new hole for the screw pin. This was needed because the RC Monster drive cups are longer and were pushing the front shaft on the tip of the tranny's output shaft and it was binding badly. I pushed the cup that comes with the Kershaw dogbones as much as I could towards the tranny case. I also had to Dremel a tiny bit on the Tranny case so the screw pin doesn't rub on it. You'll understand what I mean by that when you try to put it all together.

Having said that, I have to apologize to Dan Kershaw for saying that his E-Revo dogbones were too long to fit. They were the exact correct length, it was the RCM cups that were longer. Hey it's not my fault! I remember watching the Transformers with my son that day and while installing the Kershaw dogbones later on, I was distracted by fantasies about Megan Fox. So sorry Mr Kershaw. Man I'm glad I got that off my chest.

Well, I am sure everyone can say at least you an honest man... thanks for the info I am going to get on ordering up some parts now.